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The waist side seam shaping patch
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Bob wrote:
quote:
As to the "everyone who says it's working" that you referred to, I can count those on one finger. Of those that have posted, here is the current tally. Since most of the posts were ambiguous, I will make up categories as best I can:

Did not work for me - 0

Confused - 3 (LindaF, InspiredSewing, LauraSews)

Reject the whole idea - 5 (SewingGeek, DLJones, Teresa pople, grammiepam, Morgan Babb)

Worked for me - 1 (ElizabethPope)


This is not true. I posted a few days ago and said that it works and thanked you for the patch. I also asked some questions at the same time. I definately want to see this issue get fixed, so I tested it as soon as I could. Please change your tally to reflect this.

Thanks,
Laura
 
Posts: 15 | Registered: 08 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by DressShopBob:
quote:
I gave more detail to Kaaren, but I will say here that the placement of the bend in the side seam is better with the patch. What I don't like is that the "fix" also moves the widest part of the dart up. For me, it was better where it started. I think you are aware of this by now.



Thanks, Carolyn. Most responders agree with you. I have no idea why dart intake should be greatest at the pants waist level while side seam shaping should be greatest at the blouse / dress waist level. But, that's why we test, to see what works. We will go with what works and try to figure it out as best we can.
Front darts on Fitted Sheath in Build 6.12 without the patch are too high. They begin about 1" from apex on a 32D bust.
 
Posts: 221 | Registered: 08 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Bob,
If everybody is weighing on their status, then you can change me from confused to getting there.
I made a sloper today and reported my results to Kaaren, and tomorrow I am going to make another one with some slight changes.
HTH,
Linda
 
Posts: 139 | Location: New York | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by InspiredSewing:

,Bob, as you say, I am one who agrees totally with Carolyn preferring the dart intake at the original level, but I don't think she is saying the one is pants waist level and the one is dress waist level.

I only have one waist level for dresses, blouses, skirts and pants and that all coincides with my waist ref. line. I like the indent at that point at the side seam and the dart intake at the center waist ref. line level.


You are right, Tessa. I am not talking about a pants waist vs a dress waist - only one, but it is tilted.

For some reason which I don't understand, I am one of those whose side waist, on fitted patterns, is too low. I like exactly what you have described.

The end of the reference line matches the indent on the side seam, so the pattern appears to be drafting accurately. The problem is the indent does not match the indent on my body.
 
Posts: 190 | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:

Front darts on Fitted Sheath in Build 6.12 without the patch are too high. They begin about 1" from apex on a 32D bust.


Diane,

Are you saying that you have noticed a change in 6.12 of the offset from the bust apex? I haven't seen this.

My darts are too close to the apex, but I can easily change that with the dart tool. The program can't know what we prefer. There are guidelines for the offset, but much of it depends on the shape of the bust as much as the cup size.

What some of us don't like about the patch is the location of the widest part of the dart. In raising the side seam indent, the widest part of the dart got raised too.
 
Posts: 190 | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Carolyn:
quote:

Front darts on Fitted Sheath in Build 6.12 without the patch are too high. They begin about 1" from apex on a 32D bust.


Diane, Are you saying that you have noticed a change in 6.12 of the offset from the bust apex? I haven't seen this.

My darts are too close to the apex, but I can easily change that with the dart tool. The program can't know what we prefer. There are guidelines for the offset, but much of it depends on the shape of the bust as much as the cup size.

What some of us don't like about the patch is the location of the widest part of the dart. In raising the side seam indent, the widest part of the dart got raised too.
I can't say the distance from apex it is a "change" because I didn't look at it before 6.12. To say it another way, it is as you describe--the center of the dart is too high--in 6.12 without the patch, too. The only way to adjust the dart is to change length or width, not the center position of the dart. I would like it moved downward, just as you indicate.
 
Posts: 221 | Registered: 08 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:

I can't say the distance from apex it is a "change" because I didn't look at it before 6.12. To say it another way, it is as you describe--the center of the dart is too high--in 6.12 without the patch, too. The only way to adjust the dart is to change length or width, not the center position of the dart. I would like it moved downward, just as you indicate.


Use the offset in the dart tool.
 
Posts: 190 | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Use the offset in the dart tool.
When I use that, the waist and side dart change equally. It would be helpful to have separate offset for waist and side dart.

Additionally, it doesn't seem that front waist darts, as in the fitted sheath, should be offset from the bust at all (though it might be desirable in some instances). With two waist darts, one dart is aligning with the bust apex, the other is aligning with the tip of the side dart. This doesn't sew up well for an hourglass figure.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Diane Day,
 
Posts: 221 | Registered: 08 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Bob, can you please move me from the "confused" to a new "mixed results" category. I don't know how you put me there.


My quickie tally was obviously not right. It was based on a review of the most recent posts and I did not look back at earlier ones.

In any case, we got many responses today and we clearly need to give others a bit of time, so I'll repeat the tally tomorrow night and see where we are.

The results look promising, though with mixed suggestions regarding the waist dart centers. We may need to make that separately adjustable from the side seam indent. Yuck. I hate to make things more complicated. Hopefully, we can find a way to predict from the measurements who will want their dart centers at which position.

More data may make it clearer, so we'll collect a bit more. Thank you to all that have contributed.


DressShopBob
(Bob Clardy)
 
Posts: 718 | Registered: 18 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My report on the waist indent patch: it definitly is working for me. It raised the back waist curve by almost the full 3" above it's location without the patch.

Also I now have some ease in the AB area that I didn't have before.

I won't get time to do an actual garment until next week.


Joan in Concord, CA
Dress Shop Educator
WinXP, Epson CX6400
Dress Shop Pro Suite and all add-ons and tools
 
Posts: 45 | Location: End of message | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by DressShopBob:
quote:
The sheath & blouses & everything having a problem draft from the shoulder down --

So full length front/back would mark where the waist shaping is to go

The abdomen depth would mark how far below the waist to put the abdomen shaping

The floor-to-waist minus the floor-to-hip would give you the hip depth, or how far below the waist the hip shaping needs to be. Then from the hip (which we've told the program is the largest part of our lower body) the dress would either taper in, fall straight down, or flare out depending upon our design option.

Then wouldn't the sheath follow the contour of the body and curve in when needed or ease out where needed?

It just seems that those depth measurements are the keys to placing the circumference measurements accurately.

Maybe someone's already said this and I missed it. I'll go stitch my sloper and quit thinking about it. I'll let you know if the patch works for me.


I agree with this completely. That is, indeed, exactly how Dress Shop drafts without the patch. And yet, some users have reported it does not work acceptably for them.



I'm feeling a bit lost after several months of being away traveling and, in fact, I'm still trying to work out the new and fantastic digest format and the bells and whistles and karma stuff.

I apologize if I've missed something/s -- my patterns (waist, circumferences, bust) fit perfectly when my measurements are correct. For example, it was only with the wearing (on our trip that I realized the my side waist to floor measurement needed to be shortened by 1/2", but it was definitely a measuring error and not a DS glitch/error. Now my pant pattern really IS perfect.

I'm sure I'm understanding correctly that nothing will change unless we choose to use this patch or a new tool, but I for one do not have a need to do this. Admittedly, I've thought I had perfect measurements/patterns before, but persistence has paid off and now I finally do.
 
Posts: 49 | Location: Australia | Registered: 06 September 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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"Since most of the posts were ambiguous, I will make up categories as best I can:

Did not work for me - 0

Confused - 3 (LindaF, InspiredSewing, LauraSews)

Reject the whole idea - 5 (SewingGeek, DLJones, Teresa pople, grammiepam, Morgan Babb)

Worked for me - 1 (ElizabethPope)"


You've classified me as "reject the whole idea". How you reach that conclusion from my post which is copied below mystifies me.

"Sorry Bob, I don't think that's correct (IMHO). A waist position is a waist position. We may choose to wear our trousers below our waist position but it doesn't alter where our waist point is.

Surely the place we call our waist and from which we measure is the point at which we want any waist point or indentation point to occur whether it's pants, skirts, blouses or dresses."

Teresa
 
Posts: 56 | Location: Greece | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Will make up the sheath tonight if I have time, but on paper it looks like it will help with my waist shaping. My problem wasn't as severe as some seem to think their problem was, but this looks on paper at least to improve the side shaping. More to come when I get the time to get the fabric version made up.
 
Posts: 67 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That sounds great! I do like the way the side shaping looks on paper, but agree the 'center pins' being raised could be a problem.
Do you still want reports on the fit of our fabric versions?
 
Posts: 67 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
That sounds great! I do like the way the side shaping looks on paper, but agree the 'center pins' being raised could be a problem.
Do you still want reports on the fit of our fabric versions?


Sorry I meant that to quote Kaarens post and something went bonkers.
 
Posts: 67 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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