I like a wide collar and collar stand on my dress shirts. I use a 1.75" collar stand width. Before I attach the collar stand assembly to the neck of the shirt I do a fit check. The center lines meet on the front of the shirt at the neck exactly as they are supposed to giving the proper overlap for buttoning. The collar stand mates to the shirt without issue. When I try the completed shirt on the width of the collar stand evidently changes things so that the ends of the stand barely meet but do not overlap as they are supposed to. What adjustments do I need to make to fix this? Except for this the shirts fit perfectly.
I always walk the pattern pieces to check things out. I have even made paper shirts to ensure that things are correct.
I have kept working on this and have an observation and a question. The observation is that decent instructions on how use the neck line and collar tool are very lacking. This leads to the question - What is the relationship and how do neck circumference, neckline width, and the front and back neck depth measurements interrelate to create a collar stand that is the proper size?
The question is based on the fact that I note that the collar stand pattern piece changes length when neck width alone is changed.
If making the collar and stand wider (Taller) than the default makes them longer, what needs to be adjusted to bring the length back to what it should be? Is this a trial and error adjustment to the neckline width, a combination of settings or something else"