24 March 2012, 07:45 PM
Mr. PatCollar stand adjustment
I like a wide collar and collar stand on my dress shirts. I use a 1.75" collar stand width. Before I attach the collar stand assembly to the neck of the shirt I do a fit check. The center lines meet on the front of the shirt at the neck exactly as they are supposed to giving the proper overlap for buttoning. The collar stand mates to the shirt without issue. When I try the completed shirt on the width of the collar stand evidently changes things so that the ends of the stand barely meet but do not overlap as they are supposed to. What adjustments do I need to make to fix this? Except for this the shirts fit perfectly.
24 March 2012, 09:18 PM
Kaaren HobackUsing the collar tool make sure you check both span and other colalr dimensions.
ALWAYS walk the collar pattern to the enck patetrn ebfore cutting to avoid surprises.
Kaaren
26 March 2012, 07:03 PM
Mr. PatI always walk the pattern pieces to check things out. I have even made paper shirts to ensure that things are correct.
I have kept working on this and have an observation and a question. The observation is that decent instructions on how use the neck line and collar tool are very lacking. This leads to the question - What is the relationship and how do neck circumference, neckline width, and the front and back neck depth measurements interrelate to create a collar stand that is the proper size?
The question is based on the fact that I note that the collar stand pattern piece changes length when neck width alone is changed.
26 March 2012, 07:13 PM
Kaaren HobackIf you make the neck wider or deeper the neck dimension changes and the actual dimnension determines stand/collar lengths.
The neck measure per se is NOT used.
Kaaren
27 March 2012, 05:02 PM
Mr. PatIf making the collar and stand wider (Taller) than the default makes them longer, what needs to be adjusted to bring the length back to what it should be? Is this a trial and error adjustment to the neckline width, a combination of settings or something else"