Don't know if this is possible.
I want to draft an almost square armhole

HB and AH depth are fine but DS is curving shape of ah from x chest to beg of underarm too narrow.

deceasing frnt x chest helps some.

I need a longer bottom edge of armhole before it curves up to shoulder at HB line.

Not sure this is clear....
Any ideas / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Jean
ds7

quote:

Don't know if this is possible.
I want to draft an almost square armhole

DS and MPD both draft based on the concept of the high true shoulder point which is the junction of the shoulder and arm bones, not out for an extended shoulder for the fitted garments.

You can get what you are asking for based on a significant extension to the shoulder but NOT with a true shoulder position and high close arm hole at underarm.

Looking in the mirror you can see how the front arm/body junction is curved and the back which has a longer muscle is straighter. When the arm is in motion the curve gets more curved in front and the back lengthens.

You can design this more square armhole by pushing the shoulder extension out over the top of the arm so the cap is much shorter and the bodice portion extends out onto the arm itself.this also pulls out the across chest straightening it some and it also drops the bottom of the arm hole to accommodate the slant of the shoulder slope.

You can then push the high bust out some to square the bottom of the arm hole IF my picture of what you are trying to do is actually what you are trying to do for a design element.

The balance is tricky and it would take advanced skills with the program to accomplish.

Just a reminder that not all brilliant design concepts work in reality.

and that changing the arm hole will always change the sleeve; though you can change the sleeve without altering the arm hole.

Kaaren

Thanks for your input.

The hinge area where my chest meets arm has been out of whack since I had reconstuctive surgery after a double mastectomy.

I'll just hand draft the armhole, it increases the ah len by about 1", then I can use DS for the sleeves with some cut & paste.

I'll have to use the back half of one sleeve, that will have the correct scap len, then draft another wider, more ease, to get the correct front scap len. i can paste the first draft back half to the second's front half to get the whole sleeve I need.

Thanks again for your info!
happy holiday!

Jean

OK.thats a tough one and in person I might be able to force it with some micro changes to make ti come closer to your needs- long distance........aiyeee a little on the difificult side. The curve break point on the arm hole is a proportion thats hard to change and keep balanced.

Kaaren