I made a quarter scale of my "good" fitted pants. (made with version 6.092.) After waiting a period of time to see if there were any problems to be aware of in the newer downloads and deciding that the "yoke" problem would not affect me, I downloaded Version 6.14. I immediately compared my older fitted pants with the new version. There is one place where the quarter scales do not match up and that is on the tip of the back crotch. It appears to be drafting 1/2inch lower than before. The front appears the same as the older version. I did not make any changes to my measurement chart. This 1/2 difference changes the crotch curve, making it lower than before. If this were evidenced on both the front and the back, I could change the inseam but with only the back being affected, what would my solution be?
Thanks,
Rose Marie

If you are actually comparing quarter scale printed patterns for 6.092 and 6.14 you may find "the tip of the back crotch," better known as the "top of the back inseam" shorter by 1/2 inch because by default the back inseam drafts 1/2 inch shorter than the front.

Why it is different from one build to another may be because it was accidentally left out of one build and replaced in the next build (programming), or because the user may have removed the default option for the 1/2 inch difference. When sewing the front/back inseam together the back inseam is stretched from approximately 4-6 inches below the crotch to match the front to eliminate bagginess in the bias part of the inseam. See the Help article under How to Assemble Garments, Help with Pants, Making Pants, paragraph "Sewing Your Pants Together."

quote:

I made a quarter scale of my "good" fitted pants. (made with version 6.092.) After waiting a period of time to see if there were any problems to be aware of in the newer downloads and deciding that the "yoke" problem would not affect me, I downloaded Version 6.14. I immediately compared my older fitted pants with the new version. There is one place where the quarter scales do not match up and that is on the tip of the back crotch. It appears to be drafting 1/2inch lower than before. The front appears the same as the older version. I did not make any changes to my measurement chart. This 1/2 difference changes the crotch curve, making it lower than before. If this were evidenced on both the front and the back, I could change the inseam but with only the back being affected, what would my solution be?

Hello Rose Marie,

Build 6.13 had a problem in which the usual, default 1/2" inseam ease was not set with some measurement sets. That was corrected in build 6.14. The 1/2" inseam ease has been standard for all prior versions and only went away in 6.13 due to confusion with men's measurement sets, which do not get that ease.

If you find you prefer your pants without that ease, you can remove it in the Fit or Ease dialogs (Inseam Ease). As to the pros and cons of using that ease to make a better fit, others will have to advise you on that....

Hope that helps...