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Making sleeves easy to sew in
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posted
Hello,
Does anyone know what I need to do to make sleeves easier to ease into a shirt?
If I lessen the sleeve cap ease, would that make a difference?
I've noticed in RTW patterns that some sleeves go in really easy, and others really do not!
My dress shop sleeves are just somewhat difficult. (I'm not the best sewer!) I'd like them to be easier to sew in.
Thanks for any advice!
Michelle G.


Michelle G.
MPD 3.05 Pro
Dress Shop Pro 9.08
Windows 7
 
Posts: 62 | Registered: 09 January 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Michelle G.:
Hello,
Does anyone know what I need to do to make sleeves easier to ease into a shirt?
If I lessen the sleeve cap ease, would that make a difference?
I've noticed in RTW patterns that some sleeves go in really easy, and others really do not!
My dress shop sleeves are just somewhat difficult. (I'm not the best sewer!) I'd like them to be easier to sew in.
Thanks for any advice!
Michelle G.
The way I sew in my sleeves is leave at default unless theyre really hard,I reduced the cap.When sewing the sleeve,first of all, instead of making lots of basting to gather up, the excess on the sleeve cap,I reduce my stitch length on my sewing machine,to 1.8,holding at the back of the foot i sew aprox 1"keep repeating the method.This makes a nice easing process and no puckers to deal with.Make sure you do a quarter scale and walk the sleeve around the armhole first,that way you can tell how much to reduce.Mark with a pencil when you reach the shoulder point do each side seperatly front and back.Hope this helps you Smiler
 
Posts: 1535 | Location: Ontario. Canada | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Michelle, I can't help if it's a fitting issue, but if it's a sewing issue, this is what has worked for me for so long that I can't even remember where I learned it:

1. serge the top of your sleeve right at the edge, and set your differential feed at 2.0 between the notches (this will give you an even gather)

2. sew the sleeve. sew the bodice shoulders and side seam.

3. Pin the sleeve into the bodice. Pins at underarm seam, shoulder seam, and front and back sleeve notches.

4. Using a narrow seam allowance, with sleeve on top and bodice on bottom, baste the sleeve into the bodice. Start at underarm seam. Use your fingers to spread the fabric so as to smooth out any wrinkles. Sew only a small section at a time, stopping with needle down. Stretch the bodice to accomodate the sleeve. Most important: go slowly, in little pieces.

5. Be careful at shoulder seam - you want to make sure it's smooth for 1/4" on both sides, no gathers.

6. Take a look at the right side, fix any pleats (bet there won't be any)

7. Sew with regular size stitch, with regular seam allowance, again starting at underarm seam and keeping sleeve on top of bodice.

8. Serge - removing the ugly serging that you had on the sleeve because of the 2 diff feed. Dont bother to remove the basting, it won't show.

9. Press the seam towards the sleeve, it will give you a little fillin in the sleeve cap

done
 
Posts: 473 | Registered: 11 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Michelle G.:
Hello,
Does anyone know what I need to do to make sleeves easier to ease into a shirt?
If I lessen the sleeve cap ease, would that make a difference?
I've noticed in RTW patterns that some sleeves go in really easy, and others really do not!
My dress shop sleeves are just somewhat difficult. (I'm not the best sewer!) I'd like them to be easier to sew in.
Thanks for any advice!
Michelle G.
If its a fitting issue, theres many things to take into concideration,side length,armhole depth&biceps.
 
Posts: 1535 | Location: Ontario. Canada | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Michelle, I think that I saw something on a Sandra Bezina show that most rtw patterns have far too much sleeve cap easy, and she suggested small overlapping tucks in the sleeve pattern to bring the difference down to no more than 1.5 inches. I hope, though, that someone more knowlegeable than me will hop in here.

I think Kaaren is not available right now, but I bet she'll be back posting in a day or two and have an answer for you.
 
Posts: 473 | Registered: 11 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<Deena>
posted
quote:
Originally posted by Michelle G.:
Hello,
Does anyone know what I need to do to make sleeves easier to ease into a shirt?
If I lessen the sleeve cap ease, would that make a difference?
I've noticed in RTW patterns that some sleeves go in really easy, and others really do not!
My dress shop sleeves are just somewhat difficult. (I'm not the best sewer!) I'd like them to be easier to sew in.
Thanks for any advice!
Michelle G.


For years I have been reducing the sleeve cap ease ( in the sleeve editor ) to LESS THAN ONE INCH!!!
The only reason to have 1-1/2 inches of ease in the sleeve is if you need the space for your arm and shoulder at the top of sleeve. If you have very erect posture or "square shoulders" you may need it. Most people don't seem to need more than 1/2 to 3/4 inch of ease in the sleeve cap. You do still have to ease the sleeve into the armhole so that the sleeve "turns downwards over the shoulder from the armhole seam".

Try one and see if you like the amount of room you have. If it is not enough, go with the default 1-1/2 inches DS gives you. I commonly use the fitted shirt, but this is a rule of thumb that should work with all sleeve in garments that do not have extended shoulders.

Deena, in Houston
 
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Michelle G.:
Hello,
Does anyone know what I need to do to make sleeves easier to ease into a shirt?
-----------
I learnt of a product called seams great which you take and measure in a straight line from the back notch to shoulder seam and then straight to the front notch. cut off this amount and stitch it to the cap notch to notch stretching the seams great to fit. This takes in the cap easily. I am very pleased with the results. It is an American product. i buy iy in the UK
MargeUK
 
Posts: 237 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Peggym:You can also use, a clear elastic to ease in the extra amount of cap ease.That method was on sewing with nancy ages ago. Big Grin
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Michelle G.:
Hello,
Does anyone know what I need to do to make sleeves easier to ease into a shirt?
-----------
I learnt of a product called seams great which you take and measure in a straight line from the back notch to shoulder seam and then straight to the front notch. cut off this amount and stitch it to the cap notch to notch stretching the seams great to fit. This takes in the cap easily. I am very pleased with the results. It is an American product. i buy iy in the UK
MargeUK
 
Posts: 1535 | Location: Ontario. Canada | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank you all for the wonderful suggestions and ideas! I'm working on a purple T-shirt right now...haven't gotten to the sleeves yet! I made a hunter green one and a royal blue one. I reduced the sleeve cap ease on the green one & the sleeve went in a little easier. It's really fun & feels good to have T-shirts that fit just right!
Smiler SmilerMichelle G.


Michelle G.
MPD 3.05 Pro
Dress Shop Pro 9.08
Windows 7
 
Posts: 62 | Registered: 09 January 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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