I finally have a really good (I hope) sloper and went on to do a shell. nothing fancy all defaults. I have all the updates also. Got it all finished tried it on and everything fit (too much ease at the waist, but that is a personal decision) BUT the front length is much longer than the back. I would say about 1 1/2 inches. Before I start fooling around and maybe causing more problem that I don't need..what measurement would that be??
Jacqui

Hi Jacqui I think what you need to look at is the FULLS front and back,seems they need balancing there on your sloper.

quote:

Originally posted by Jacqui Gates:
I finally have a really good (I hope) sloper and went on to do a shell. nothing fancy all defaults. I have all the updates also. Got it all finished tried it on and everything fit (too much ease at the waist, but that is a personal decision) BUT the front length is much longer than the back. I would say about 1 1/2 inches. Before I start fooling around and maybe causing more problem that I don't need..what measurement would that be??
Jacqui

Hi Jacqui,
I just looked at the Fitted Blouses>Shell pattern. In that pattern the "gentle curved front hem" is a default setting. So because you said that you used all defaults to make this shell, could it be that your pattern has the curved front hem?
Can you tell us exactly which pattern you used? And did your side seam match? If the front was 1.5" longer in the front as an error, then your side seams would be off by that amount, I think.

But what I think is happening for you is the default setting of a gentle curved front hem.
LMF

First before changign anything.measure how much too long that might be.
Then See if you had "gentle curve" selected as the finish!

The gentle curve drops center front waist by 3/4 of an inch to make up for "hiking" due to the bust or belly mound.

IF its not required and you dont get a tromp l'oile level look change that gentle curve to straight "untucked" on the Mia option that says closures and finishes which is available for blouses.

ONLY if the straight finish is still too long looking then consider the floor to waist straight measurement as being the culprit.as it is determining how long this garment will be at hip level.

Kaaren

quote:

Hi Jacqui I think what you need to look at is the FULLS front and back,seems they need balancing there on your sloper

I just did an experiment, changing the full length back (adding to it) and it changed the slope of my shoulder (front and back) I don't want to play with my shoulder, it took me a long time to get it even. I did use the fitted blouse (shell)and yep there was a gentle curve. A little less than 3/4 inch. So I guess that's part of it. my side seams matched perfectly, so that's not part of the equasion. What other measurement has anything to do with the length of the back?? Bob??? Can I add to the back length as an option? I know I can add to the whole thing but what about just the back. I have large shoulder and across back, along with a larger than average bottom and a small front area. The opposite of all the conversations that have been going on with the large busted women in our group...(grin) Oh and the sides are fine when I take into account the gentle curve, It's just the back is too short.

quote:

I just looked at the Fitted Blouses>Shell pattern. In that pattern the "gentle curved front hem" is a default setting. So because you said that you used all defaults to make this shell, could it be that your pattern has the curved front hem?
Can you tell us exactly which pattern you used? And did your side seam match? If the front was 1.5" longer in the front as an error, then your side seams would be off by that amount, I think.

quote:

ONLY if the straight finish is still too long looking then consider the floor to waist straight measurement as being the culprit.as it is determining how long this garment will be at hip level

Guess I replied to soon (grin) I'm going to assume you mean the front right? So I need to add 1" to the floor to waist straight? Or should I go to the back and take 1" off as I like where the front lands on me. I thought the floor to hip had something to do with the length also, but I may have misread.. my pants sloper is still a work in progress - getting there (only took me 5 years now, but hopefully soon- there are no users or groups in my area)

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I'm going to assume you mean the front right? So I need to add 1" to the floor to waist straight? Or should I go to the back and take 1" off as I like where the front lands on me. I thought the floor to hip had something to do with the length also, but I may have misread..

Hi Kaaren, when you get a chance can you reply to this. I put the top on this morning and it is more like 2" difference. I did have the curve so when you subtract the 3/4" I still have a difference of 1 1/4". anyone with thoughts I would love to hear fron you's too..

I did reply to this about a minute after you originally posted.

The gentle curve finish adds about 3/4 in ch to center front..change that to straight FIRST before removign anything.

The only measurement that effects the position fo a sloper or bodice to waist is the full emasurement.that places waist!

The hip line places hem at default.

The shell is a patetrn not a sloper.

If you want it longer/shorter is to change length in options...

to even out the levels if they are even at side seam its not an upper torso number thats off its most likely the "finish" chosen.

IF thats not the iossue you all ready checked the finish to straight untucked its more likely to be the floor to waist front straight that is off.

IF you ahve a very tilted waist when lookign at your floor to waist straights ( front, side and back.adjust the f/w front)

Kaaren

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Posted 16 September 2005 08:00 AM
I did reply to this about a minute after you originally posted.
Karen, you responded to my original request at @ 12:14, I further request information as to whether you meant the front or the back ftw straight measurement. this is what my next request at 12:29 asked. to this I got no answer and so I was asking it again. I realize you have many of emails to answer but I did need clarification
The gentle curve finish adds about 3/4 in ch to center front..change that to straight FIRST before removign anything.
In my previous post I stated that I did have the gentle slope but when I removed it I still had a 1 1/4" difference

The only measurement that effects the position fo a sloper or bodice to waist is the full emasurement.that places waist!
That being so, and my shoulder's are at the correct place, there must be something else going on? yes? On the sloper the waist seems fine.

The hip line places hem at default.

The shell is a patetrn not a sloper.this I understand, but if the front and back are not level I must have a problem somewhere that did not show up when doing the sloper

If you want it longer/shorter is to change length in options...
that being so, I do not want to change the length, just to have them level when I wear the tops. I do not have this probem in ready to wear.

to even out the levels if they are even at side seam its not an upper torso number thats off its most likely the "finish" chosen.and when I subtract the 3/4" I am still not level, of course I could put on a large padded bra and then I would be level ...grin

IF thats not the iossue you all ready checked the finish to straight untucked its more likely to be the floor to waist front straight that is off.
see, that's what I need, just that you meant front. I did the back, testing it 5 times changing the ftw straight and nothing changed on the back length at all
IF you ahve a very tilted waist when lookign at your floor to waist straights ( front, side and back.adjust the f/w front)

I just went in and with my "test" measurements changed my ftw straight front - I added 10 inches just to see what would happen. All the reference lines tilted upwards but the number of squares on the front did not change it is still 25 inches. this is exactly what I had before.
So it's obvious that I do not understand this. Please do not get impatient with me. I just want to be able to use a program that I spent so much time, money and energy trying to understand. Yes, I am thin skinned and bruise easily, so please be gentle (grin)

Im not impatient with anyone that needs help and asks....but Im not undertsanding where its too long.....and that we need to work on...
is it too long to bust depth?
is it too long between bust and waist
is it too long from waist to hem?

Knowing where its coming out too long and why would help.

Is the back rounded?
IS the pelvis tilted?
please send me your MyDsMeasurement.txt file or send a problem report to Bob to pass along to me so I can "see what you are seeing".

A photo of the shell front ( thats the problem right) would help.

The digital photo should be either jpeg or gif and reduced in size to no more than 4 inches tall.

200dpi

Kaaren

Karen I will send you my measurements. I loped off the amount that was too long in the front and finished up the top. I had a friend come over tonight and I asked her if my top was level now and she said yes. I took off almost 2 inches from the centre front. Everything fits up to the underbust, so I don't know what it is...and I am getting frustrated.
Also I tried to reduce the amount of ease in the waist and nothing happened. No matter how much or what I did I could not get the waist to reduce. and I am using the fitted shell, so I would have thought I could make it more fitted, but no go..
I really do appreciate the help, I'm just getting frustrated to tears. I don't have that complicated of a body.

Jacqui: I have had the same problem with tops...the back is too short and hikes up, the front dips down...not very flattering. What I have done is use a pencil on the pattern and when truing the pattern, gently curve the back longer towards center and take that amount off in front. I am reading your posts with interest because I would love to know what measurements need tweaking, also. When I change the length of the overall top...I get the same thing, only in longer lengths.

Thanks Michelle, it's nice to know I'm not the only one. Are you short with smaller chest. Only asking to see if it's related to our stature...

quote:

Jacqui: I have had the same problem with tops...the back is too short and hikes up, the front dips down...not very flattering. What I have done is use a pencil on the pattern and when truing the pattern, gently curve the back longer towards center and take that amount off in front. I am reading your posts with interest because I would love to know what measurements need tweaking, also. When I change the length of the overall top...I get the same thing, only in longer lengths

No, I am 5'6" with bust measurement of 38...but large in the back and therefore I really notice when my tops hike up in the back...

Hi Michelle

I could be wrong but to me it souns like your shoulder placement is in the wrong place which is throwing off you full lengths. Kaaren????