I know we do not have a jacket pattern in DS with both armhole and shoulder princess lines. I would like to figure out how to draft one, though, because I like the design opportunities presented by the extra vertical line.

For instance, a patch pocket(s) can be placed between the two princess seams and anchored into the seams themselves. Also, there is more opportunity for vertical piping between seams, etc.

How would I go about designing this from what is available in DS? (There wouldn't be one coming for fall, would there? <hint> <hint> )

Lani

quote:

I know we do not have a jacket pattern in DS with both armhole and shoulder princess lines. I would like to figure out how to draft one, though, because I like the design opportunities presented by the extra vertical line.

For instance, a patch pocket(s) can be placed between the two princess seams and anchored into the seams themselves. Also, there is more opportunity for vertical piping between seams, etc.

How would I go about designing this from what is available in DS? (There wouldn't be one coming for fall, would there? <hint> <hint>

I was at a summer fair last weekend and saw a really terrific blouse with both an armhole princess line and a shoulder princess line. Very nice look! I would love to see that added to Dress Shop in the near future.

Until we get to it, though, I would suggest starting with the armhole princess pattern, then hand draw the shoulder princess line to create the extra cut you want.

You should not try to trace that line from a shoulder princess pattern for two reasons:

1. Those will have bust darts built into the top of the line and that darting is already included in the armhole princess line. The really proper way to do this pattern is to split that darting between the two lines, but there is no easy way to do that just now.

2. The shoulder princess line will be placed directly over the bust point, just where the armhole princess line is. You really need a few inches between these two lines. Others can comment on whether it would be better to have the second line inside the bust point (draw the shoulder princess line there) or outside the bust point. If for some reason that would work better from a fit standpoint, then you would want to start with the shoulder princess line (crossing the bust point on the way to the shoulder) and hand draw the armhole line outside it.

In either case, you can get the same stylistic effect using an undarted seam for the other princess line. The fit should be almost indentical and putting pockets between the two seams should work.

It is a very attractive style.

Wow, Greg (who I am assuming is the Board Administrator) answered this question so well, that I don't think anybody could add more.

I love that style myself and it is very, very in right now. But Greg is right, the best way to do that would be to have the dart shaping in both lines. I agree with number 2 where you would draw the second line outside the bust point, which I am assuming means closer to side seam.

Even if all the dart shaping is on one line, the second vertical line down the body will give a beautiful slendering effect.
Thank you for this suggestion, it is exactly what I am going to do.

And I have seen this on blouses also, so don't stop at jackets when considering this style.
Linda Flint

I'm not sure I understand what you are describing. Since both the armhole and shoulder seams essentially go through the bust area I can't see how you would have two seams to put a pocket into.
Perhaps the panel blouse would give you what you are looking for. I saw a blouse the other day which had both a panel and princess seam. It looked really sharp and I thought I could blend the princes shoulder with a panel seam and get a comparable blouse. It really looked slimming with both vertical seams showing. Perhaps this is what you were thinking of.

I make this type of jacket all the time and it fits wonderfully. Just select shoulder princess then go to darts and select 1 waist dart. Print out the pattern, trace the waist dart and move it horizontally to where you would like the armhole princess line to be. (You usually have to move it as I think the position as drafted is too close to the shoulder princess seam). Then just slice the moved dart and connect the top of it w/a gentle curve to the armhole and the bottom of it to the hemline. Throw out what you cut out of the center of the dart and add seam allowances. Bonnie Triola

Bonnie, you're a genius!!

Thank you all for your responses. As soon as I get back from the Western Caribbean, I am going to give this a try!! (Have to finish cruise wardrobe first....)

Is it possible to buy time?

Lani

I recently saw a jacket in the Nordstrom's catalog with a shoulder princess seam and a panel (like casual panel) seam. There was no under-arm seam, the panel going to the back. Looked do-able if there wasn't a lot of shaping. Combining the princess seam and panel patterns.

Carol
London

Has someone got an online link to one of these please?

I must say that I am fiercely impressed by Board Administrator Greg's post. He noticed a terrific blouse at a summer fair for goodness sake. Is he tuned in or what? He then posts really clued in directions on how to do this in Dress Shop.
Greg, I think you have to 'fess up and tell us how much you know about clothing design.

Over 80% of Chanel jackets are made w/the double princess seams. My purpose for using DS and taking a workshop w/Kaaren was to replicate a Chanel jacket which I had w/this very seaming. Kaaren had the idea to use the shoulder princess plus the waist dart. You can see close up pictures of Chanel's w/this type of seaming either by going to firstview.com or better yet go to ebay and look at the Chanel jackets for sale there as they have very detailed close up pics. Bonnie Triola

Thanks Bonnie. I don't know if there is a Chanel source here in town so I'll scout the web.

Ebay has this tweed jacket. I know all about deconstructed designer garments but the unfinished zigzag edges on this is a joke. There is no point to this one.
The lining and tweed are zigzagged together at the neck and hem edges with a self curling trim on top and the fabric is fraying everywhere.

I've seen Chanel do tasteful tweed shredding before. There were unbelievably beautiful garments a few years ago where the tweed melted away onto a nude sheer at the hem of dresses and jackets. fzxdoc on Sewing World was wanting to do a knock off and put up some Chanel pics. It was stunning.

Here are some:

denim jacket

mark jacket


I wish I could find some blouses. I saw a beautiful white blouse at Hudson Bay Company in Ottawa, Canada also. These designs can be very slenderizing.
If I find more, I will post some links.
Linda