Hi Everyone

If you remember I am the one with the jodhpurs. I have taken Tessa's, Kaaren's and Linda's suggestions by raising the fth meas. I have increased it almost 2". My hip line goes right across my navel and my ab line is 1.5" above that. I can still pinch out 1.5" of jodhpur on the right side and about half of that on the left. Otherwise the fit is good. There is no move wedgie in the back crotch and no diagonal pulls from navel to waist. I am using the pants sloper in the pant menu. I am wonder if the sloper should fit like this? My calf area is snug like I would expect in a sloper but on tight. So its pretty much in the thigh/hip area I have problems. The only think I can think of is to lower the floor to hip back to where it was and decrease my hip meas. a whole lot. Probably 3" maybe more front and back. I am really getting frustrated. I have done 1/2 scales like Tessa suggested and didn't see this but I do remember thinking Wow! I have skinny legs compared to my belly. I am apple shaped according to Connie Amaden Crawford's article in the current Sew News.

One other minor thing is instead of a "J" hook in the crouch I have a /\ what causes this? This makes sewing the crotch area a little difficult and unsmooth. Also, I have to ease in the area mid thigh to mid thigh on the inseam. Do the slopers have that 1/2" ease thing for cupping the but? I have 3/4 to 1 ".


Can one of you help me?????? Please!!!!!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Jane Krychiw,

Jane,

If your hip line is now across your navel, it is likely that you have raised it too much.

Tell us, please, which pants you are using.

You mentioned reducing the hip measurement. Do this only if there is excess fabric in the hip area.

What about reducing the thigh? Have you tried that? It will work on some pants.

Reducing the back crotch extension could help, but, like the fth, don't reduce it too much. You don't want to end up with a wedgie.

There's a very delicate balance in pants. Sometimes it is hard to get.

In a message dated 7/24/2005 11:05:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, bbsredirect@livingsoftnw.com writes:
Carolyn:Tell us, please, which pants you are using
Jane:I did. The sloper in the pants menu.

Carolyn:You mentioned reducing the hip measurement. Do this only if there is excess fabric in the hip area.

Jane:That depends on where my hip is. I had the hip level 2" lower and the jodhpur was worse.

Carolyn:What about reducing the thigh? Have you tried that? It will work on some pants.

Jane:yes

Carolyn:Reducing the back crotch extension could help, but, like the fth, don't reduce it too much. You don't want to end up with a wedgie.
Jane:Been there, done that. <ggg>

Jane

I dont know if this is relevant but it may be worth a try. I dont have much - if any - hip and DS6 likes to draft a hip curve whether you have one or not. I find my pants fit much better through the back if I pay attention to the shape of the back crotch curve.The more L shaped it is the better the fit for me. With DS4 the curve drafted that way but it is possible with DS6 not Ds5 to manipulate the back crotch using the crotch tools. Have a try and see if this helps.

I am using the pants sloper in the pant menu. I am wonder if the sloper should fit like this? My calf area is snug like I would expect in a sloper but on tight. So its pretty much in the thigh/hip area I have problems. The only think I can think of is to lower the floor to hip back to where it was and decrease my hip meas. a whole lot.

First let us define Jodphur
An english riding pant with a distinct BULGE and curved OUTSEAM only below the hip.This style line is no longer as popular since the advent of good stretch fabrics.

This is NOT a full thigh which can be pulled from the outseam outward.

Go back to your original floor to hip pattern and see if there is fullness in the thigh based on your around hip or a distinct Curve thats occurs well below the hip only on the outseam.

The sloper is absed ona dress pant, the leg should not eb close fittign anywhere.

Draft a fitted pant versus the sloper to see the DRESS~ pant fit ( which the sloepr is the block for) which has little if any leg shaping.

Draft a slim fit pant which does have thigh control and does allow leg shaping.

it occurs to me if the knee and around ankle heel measurements are too tight the fullness at thigh which is normal will puff outwards above the tight spot.

By increasing the ankle heel or hem circumference in options on a fitted pant will the pant now fall gracefully from the crotch level to hem?

In which case the "jodphur" isnt a bulge but is a natural looser fit in thigh based on the hip measurement and the inability to contour to the leg on a Dress Pant.

if you are tryign to fit a slendar leg with a larger abd and hip I suggest you attempt the slim fit pant. Dont sloper!

use fitted, and slim fit to find your fit!

Kaaren

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jane Krychiw:
If you remember I am the one with the jodhpurs.

You raised the hip level by increasing the floor to hip.

When I was re-tuning my pants sloper (ver. 6.07 or so, Oct 2004), I re-checked the placement of the all-important intersection of crotch seams and inseams. I had to put a safety pin in the pants so that I could feel where the pants "rose" was! When I moved it to the proper location, the size of my jodphurs decreased dramatically.

I am using the pants sloper in the pant menu. I am wonder if the sloper should fit like this?

Don't expect the pants to fit like they were painted on. The pants sloper is based on the fitted pant, not the slim fit pant. [Kaaren can correct me if I am wrong about this]. So some space should be in the leg, it just shouldn't pouch out to accommodate a "saddlebag thigh" that you don't have. The transition from the round belly to the thinner thigh should be a smooth line, not a tracing of every dimple you own. Also there is something else that you mentioned next, that you should fix before obsessing on the looseness in the thigh.


One other minor thing is instead of a "J" hook in the crouch I have a /\ what causes this? This makes sewing the crotch area a little difficult and unsmooth.

If your /\ is what I call the "W", you probably need to decrease your inseam measurement without changing any of your floor to waist measurements. Try it and draft onscreen. If you see the crotch point drop at all, print out 1/4 or 1/2 scale and play paper dolls. Cut out your mini pants and at the top of the thigh, overlay the two seamlines to see the shape of the crotch curve after sewing. The amount to shorten the inseam is the amount from the peak of the "/\" to the "____" stitching line that you want.

If this smooths out your crotch, put your floor to hip back to where it was, (or just a little higher than it was if you think it might have been too low) and check the shape of the out seam against your last sloper with jodphurs. If the shape changes on paper (those 1/4 scales again) it is probably worth sewing up yet another sloper sample.
I use the fitted pant as a basic pants pattern, so I know that the sloper fit and my pants fit are closely related. Getting this right is important.


------Good luck,
Deena from Houston
DS6 Pro etc... everything - all bells and whistles!

Hi Kaaren

The bulge is happening at the area where my leg joins the pelvis. And as I said it seems to be more pronounced on the right side.

I think as you suggested I will try the slim fit pant cause everything else feels good and I will probably never wear a dress pant because I just don't like all that loose fabric. I think it puts many pounds on you and I don't need any more of those!<ggg>

Jane, if you have different amts on each side, I would check my side split and make sure the side seam is straight on EACH side. One side can be off and cause issues.