have a real head scratcher...
when I select side & waist dart in fitted bodice (like in sloper), total side seam lengths of bodice & sloper match.

BUT when I select waist only dart, fitted bodice ss len is short & no longer matches total ss len of sloper or total ss len of bodice w/side & waist darts.

Shouldn't total ss len be the SAME no matter which dart option I choose?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Jean

Q: BUT when I select waist only dart, fitted bodice ss len is short & no longer matches total ss len of sloper or total ss len of bodice w/side & waist darts.

Shouldn't total ss len be the SAME no matter which dart option I choose?

A:
Not really - the front and back finished side lengths should match- different garment classes get different results as the arm hole ease varies per garment class and fit level.

I think you are getting hung up on one measurement that you expect will match the chart plus a single ease factor ( which wasnt right to begin with) out of 57 measurements that are used alone or in a formula creating many hundreds of other values which create an actual pattern.

You waist tilt is also effecting the actual reference lines which are not 100% shaped as your body is.. the reference lines are a simple guide not an absolute. They may be drawn enar level when the body in fact curves.

Kaaren
Kaaren

Karen,

If I take the sloper or fitted bodice w/side & waist darts) and manually rotate out side dart (slash thru side & waist dart to bust point, close side dart), the side seam length is not affected.

The ANGLE of the side and waist seamlines ARE but the total length of each is constant.

The garment must still cover the same distance between underarm & waistline no matter how bust fullness is addressed.

please bear in mind I am only talking about the fitted bodice - getting it to draft the same with both dart options.

Jean