I need to lengthen my inseam measurement. I need to know what other measurements to increase to keep my crotch the way it is. It fits good.

Edie
DS6:13

Floor to waist minus inseam = crotch depth
if you like your crrotch you would also need to adjust your floor to waist.

if you just want to raise the crotch point closer to body.try just the inseam increase in small doses.

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Edie:
I need to lengthen my inseam measurement. I need to know what other measurements to increase to keep my crotch the way it is. It fits good.

Edie
DS6:13

Curious about why you want to just lengthen the inseam. Is it level with the outseam? Also note, the back inseam on the pant sloper purposely drafts 1/2 inch shorter than the front inseam, and the Help article in the program shows how to handle that in construction.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Diane Day,

Edie,
Before you change your measurement chart, remember that in 6.13 the .5" inseam ease is no longer the default. Look in the Fit column and add back the .5" inseam ease. I know you said you needed to lengthen the inseam, but before you do, make sure you are at the starting point you really want - with the previous .5 inseam ease default OR now, without the previous .5 inseam ease. Kelly

MY fitted pant does have the 0.5 inch inseam ease as default. So to check to see if it is there select the pant, click FIT and check whats filled in on the inseam ease box. If it says 0.5 its there.

The mens wear pants do not have this couture womans ease.
Kaaren

Edie, do you want to lengthen your inseam, or just add length to the pant in general?

quote:

Originally posted by Board Administrator:
MY fitted pant does have the 0.5 inch inseam ease as default. So to check to see if it is there select the pant, click FIT and check whats filled in on the inseam ease box. If it says 0.5 its there.

The mens wear pants do not have this couture womans ease.
Kaaren

With the advent of the Menswear package, those of us that did not purchase it have lost our defabult inseam ease. Bob said that was a bug and would be fixed. It didn't get fixed yet.

I do have my chart checked as a Woman's chart but evidently that is not enough.

here's the link to that old thread

https://livingsoftnw.groupee.net/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/700108521/m/775103754

quote:

With the advent of the Menswear package, those of us that did not purchase it have lost our defabult inseam ease. Bob said that was a bug and would be fixed. It didn't get fixed yet.

I do have my chart checked as a Woman's chart but evidently that is not enough.

I have looked at this issue several times recently and was getting the woman's default inseam ease. The case that we found and fixed in the last update that related to a measurement set that was being interpreted as a man's set. That case was corrected.

But, there was another case that could also cause this discrepancy. Depending on which functions in Dress Shop you use and in what order, a woman's measurement set could be partially treated as a doll's measurement set, which also does not get inseam ease.

Kaaren (and me and others that were testing for this) was not seeing this case because of the way she drafts patterns. She would run Dress Shop, draft a pair of pants, then check the Fit Tool. The ease was there. However, if she first went to the Size menu - Enter / Change All Measurements to view her chart and confirm that the "woman" flag is set there. Then, closed that and checked the Fit Tool - in that case, the ease was lost.

There may be other sequences of menu choices that could cause this. I only describe this one to show why Kaaren and Gayle were not seeing the same thing.

I have a fix for this issue and will include it in the next update. I'll also try to get a patch posted (will need more testing first) for those that want this particular change sooner. Until you have the patch or update, you can still add the inseam ease manually using the Fit Tool. Just have to remember to do it. The better fix will be available soon.

Thanks to Gayle for continuing to ask about this one. I wish there was a better way to realize which issues only occur when a particular procedure is used. Those are so hard to spot. We'll just have to try harder to anticipate them...

I need to increase the inseam because the pants I have printed out are too short. I love the way the crotch fits with what I have. I needed to ad 1/2 inch and I did it to all the measurements Bob said in his email. I do not have the same crotch I had before so I am going to use the old measurements and use the options to add the 1/2 inch.

Edie

I want to ad length to the pant in general.

Edie

The way to increase pant length ( next weeks topic is how pants draft in the class room) is change the floor to waist!
that and only that will change over all length.

If you like the crotch at the depth you currently have then simply increase inseam as well.

Floor to waist minus inseam = crotch depth.

Changign ONLY floor to waist will elngthen the pant but not changing inseam will increase torso crotch depth.

Changign just inseam will length leg but shorten crotch depth

changign both will balance the length into the leg and maintain the torso, crotch lengths and curves.

Kaaren

Edie, from experience I learned that only increasing the inseam length can be most uncomfortable! The trunk part of the pants
( waist to crotch) will not change, but the length of the leg will move upward into the crotch if you just lengthen the inseam. Floor to waist ( comformed for fitted, straight for slim fit ) and floor to waist side will lengthen the leg but you have to make sure the curve at the hip doesn't move downward when you do that.
My ultimate way to change the length of the leg is to use the Length Adjust in the Options tower. I usually put in 3-4" of extra length, make the muslin pants, try them on, and turn under the hem. If you don't like your pants tapered at the bottom, change the hem circumference to reflect that. My HC is usually 17 or 18" ( on a 5', RTW size of 14). I don't like pencil thin legs and I don't like the hems to brush against each other when I walk. Whatever you do, remember that a fitted pant leg should fall gracefully straight down to the floor from your hip. If you taper the leg too much it only accentuates the size of your hip.

Edie , I agree with Kelly. That is the reason I ased you what you were shooting for. If you just want to add some length do as Kelly suggested. I did that as I didn't want to mess up the crothc curve or get my jodphurs back that I had a terrible time getting rid of. The lenght adjust in the Options tower will work for you.

While using the length option does "get you there" the floor is a stable position.for full, knee, shorts, capris, crops etc. and variuous skirt lengths and dress lengths as well as pants.

I strongly suggest you get the floor to waist accurate and to rebalance any length change.if you want the change in the leg only also lengthen the inseam the same amoutn you added to floor to waist.

if you want the added lengthen in the torso just change the floor to waist and unfortunatly also adjust the crotch lengths.

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Edie:
I need to increase the inseam because the pants I have printed out are too short. Edie

How exactly does DS determine the pants inseam length? My chart says a 29" inseam and my pants are always "high waters."

I thought maybe the best way would be to lengthen the pattern by the number of inches of heel that I planned to wear. Still high waters.

In measuring a new pattern where I asked to lengthen by 3" my pants inseam is 30 1/2". So I guess asking to lengthen by 3" will work for a 2" heel (pants should be 1 1/2" too long and then will clear floor by 1/2").

I guess the word "inseam" is confusing because DS is talking about body leg and not pants leg.