I'm trying to work on my Pants Sloper. I've never made a pair of pants on this computer and I don't think I've saved anything as "defaults" on the crotch tool.

With the Sloper or the Fitted Pants on the screen I displayed the Crotch Tool just to see what it looked like. Here's where the confusion starts.

The measurements in the gray box under the crotch shape drawing don't match what are in my measurement chart. Does this mean that the measurements I've entered make it impossible for the program to create the crotch curve without modification?

The puzzling thing is that I can click on the "default" button and my Body Depth (and crotch extensions) will change and match my measurement chart but the Inseam displayed still doesn't match my chart. It's off by 1/2 inch.

Is it time to go back and recheck my measurements? Do I need to resave the "defaults"?

It's really bothering me that when the pants originally come up the Body Depth isn't correct. It's off by almost 3/4" and I've already measured BD several times and its always the same number as my chart.

Thanks for any guidance,
Vicki

Okay, if I fight it long enough I start to see the light.

It looks like on the Crotch Tool display the Inseam is 1/2" less than any value that I put in my measurement chart. I'm assuming that means that the 1/2 inch is really my crotch ease. After wearing the pants a little bit I bet I'd be really glad its there!

I guess I'm going to assume that I had saved some prior measurements as a default and resave the "default" as the "default". That at least makes sense to me since it will be using the Body Depth in my measurement chart.

Wish me luck,
Vicki

quote:

It looks like on the Crotch Tool display the Inseam is 1/2" less than any value that I put in my measurement chart. I'm assuming that means that the 1/2 inch is really my crotch ease.

I take it all back. When I used several Standard Sizes it added 1/2" to the Inseam. Now there's a friendly crotch curve! So I'm back to just taking a leap of faith since I don't understand what the deal is.

Vicki

The puzzling thing is that I can click on the "default" button and my Body Depth (and crotch extensions) will change and match my measurement chart but the Inseam displayed still doesn't match my chart. It's off by 1/2 inch.


The frotn and back inseam are delievratly offset by 1/2 inch with rthe back being shorter to force a tension on the back bias crotch curve to increase "cupping" in the back.

The total extension should equal body depth unless you ahev the numebrs "unlocked" n the crotch tool.

the crotch tool doesn't "ammend" the crotch shape/dimensions it rebuilds it from scratch to your specs by either entering new numbers or dragging nodes.
Kaaren

quote:

The puzzling thing is that I can click on the "default" button and my Body Depth (and crotch extensions) will change ...

Kaaren -

I think I've figured out the problem with my Body/Depth & Crotch Extensions not matching the measurement chart until I choose the defaults.

As long as I start DressShop with the measurement set that I'll be using everything comes up fine. As soon as I "Load" another measurement set, the crotch measurements seemed to get confused until I click on the Crotch Tool "Default" button.

My last "Load Measurements" to the displayed pattern caused both extensions to came up as 6.33" for a total of 12.66" Body Depth but after I chose "Defaults" they reverted to Frt 4.67" & back 5.54" for a total BD of 10.25 which matched the measurement chart.

I'm wondering if this is something an established user wouldn't see because they are using their "Good" measurement chart. I'm still working on my pants sloper I'm constanting flipping back & forth between measurement charts to compare changes.

Since this seems to be my problem I'll just make sure that I hit the Crotch Default button every time I use the "Load Measurements" feature.

As a aside: I'm really starting to enjoy this message board. For me it seems much easier to follow a thread and know if there have been new posts.

Vicki

But is this is a change to what we are seeing in the crotch tool? It used to show the inseam amount shown in the chart. Now it is showing the amount plus one half inch.

I had 30 1/2 in the chart and it shows 31 in the crotch tool. If I change to 30, it shows 30 1/2.

Is the programming adding 1/2 inch to the front or removing 1/2 inch to the back? Which is displaying in the tool?

This appears to be adding 1/2 inch to the back and showing that in the tool display for the inseam number when show all pattern pieces is selected and viewing the crotch tool.

This may be as designed, but it is different than what we saw before.

Please clarify.

Im not sure if the report in crotch tool is reading the "shorter" back inseam or why.
have sentr a reportt to Bob...will report back to you all when I get an answer.
Kaaren

got an answer
Crotch tool has been mis-reporting inseam length since it was released. Nothing new. Greg has not been able to fix it .
IGNORE it.

I ahve to explain all the numebrs beign reported in any tool, ease box etc are calculated "on the fly" numebrs are not exact as they gtet rounded 1,2,even 3 times.

IF the number works great, If it doesnt change it.

If a 28 inch inseam works at 28 thats great.if tis too short/long change it.

Kaaren

Wow! Was I ever relieved to see Vicki write

As long as I start DressShop with the measurement set that I'll be using everything comes up fine. As soon as I "Load" another measurement set, the crotch measurements seemed to get confused until I click on the Crotch Tool "Default" button.

I could not for the life of me figure out why the crotch wouldn't change when I adjusted my measurements. The symptom I noticed was that if I played with the Crotch Curve Tool, then hit "Defaults", the sloper didn't go back to what it looked like originally.

This will be especially important info if I go to make pants for my 6-year-old daughter who is, needless to say, a very different shape than I am!

To me it feels like a bug that loading the pants sloper wouldn't cause all parts of the pants to go to default measurements. But perhaps it's a "feature" since somebody who has made custom adjustments would probably want them for all their pants.

I guess, like Vicki, I'll just have to make a point of going to the Crotch Curve Tool and clicking "Defaults" every time I'm working with pants.

--Laura in SW Ontario

Laura,

Do you really want the defaults? If you click on defaults you will lose any edits you have made to the curve.

Sometimes the program gets confused when you change measurement sets (or load too many patterns). It is a good idea, when that happens, to ReStart the program. Sometime you can clear up the "confusion" by choosing a totally different garment, then going back to the one you want, but ReStarting should always work.

I am always very careful with my crotch settings beaue I don't want to lose them. In fact it is a good idea to save a screen print in something like Word so that you can get the crotch settings back if anything happens.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Carolyn:
Do you really want the defaults? If you click on defaults you will lose any edits you have made to the curve.
QUOTE]

Once I have values that I like, I agree that I probably won't want to change them.

However, I hadn't previously modified the curve -- at least not intentionally. I had expected "Defaults" to return the values to what they were when the pattern was loaded. If I don't hit "Defaults" the front and back extensions bear no apparent relation to my body depth.

I realize that the defaults won't work for every body -- and quite possibly, they won't work for mine -- but at least they give a known starting point. Or I'm hoping they do.

--Laura in SW Ontario

Im going to try and explain this...

The crotch tools does not just "alter or modify" the crotch.It starts all over and draws you a NEW crotch.

When you save the settings you are asked WHICH chart to save them to.

The settings are then permanently saved to that specific chart and anytime that chart is brought up the redesigned crotch will display until or unless you over ride that setting.

To overide the setting you can click default, then save.and its will rebuild the crotch by the default numbers.

OR by highlighting one of the key crotch numbers, and reentering a number ( even the same number) and saving it to that chart!

then load that chart.

that eliminates the custom crotch you built with the crotch tool. Saves the numbers at the default level, for that chart.

Before having a specific pant on screen. or after closing out YOUR chart your pant.
Click NO pant
Click Load, enter the childs chart
select pant. The pant should be at default UNLESS you selected settings earlier and saved them.

Then it will have saved commands that you may now want to delete.

re-enter a crotch length number. save ...load the saved name

now you are cleared to start from scratch.

What you did last month or a year ago that you might not remember now is still saved if you haven't changed it or cleared it.

Kaaren

Thank you for your reply, Kaaren.

Once I had a chart for myself, I never started over from scratch; I just kept modifying and resaving under new names. So if I had played with the Crotch Curve Tool somewhere along the way (and it appears that I had), those adjustments would have come along with all the subsequent charts.

--Laura

Vicki wrote about the isneam ease ( which is that extra 1/2 inch on the BACK that is used to pull the back crotch curve bias to cup the backside was missing.

I wrotye Bob becuase I could nto rteplicate it......
here's his response:

"Women's inseam ease got set to zero with some people's measurements. Not others. Depends on whether they ever used a "Body Type" menu. If you ever used one (you did, it is in your measurement set), then the program knows that you are a woman and gives you inseam ease.

Other users did not use that drop list. They just have raw measurements. The program does not know it is a woman. So, they get no inseam ease.

That is the problem that Vicki is reporting. She can set her inseam ease to .5" manually and all should be as it was."


SO.make sure to enter edit yoru chyart, click "woman" so the program knows and then draft a pant.

If the inseam ease is still missing set it and all will be well.

quote:

SO.make sure to enter edit yoru chyart, click "woman" so the program knows and then draft a pant.

If the inseam ease is still missing set it and all will be well.

patrns4u@aol.com

Kaaren,

Are you saying that if we have the "Woman" radio button selected we should get the inseam ease? I have "woman" selected, but I am unable to get it unless I choose it manually.