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Neck facing won't lay flat at the shoulder seams.
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posted
DS 6.14 however when I printed the pattern it was 6.13.
I am making a pajama shirt from the men's pattern set. The facing pieeces are about 4 inches wide from sewn edge to the other edge. I have sewn the facing pieces together and then pinned them into the shirt. Along the neck edge of the pieces everything fits perfectly. The facing seams even rest against the shoulder seams of the shirt. The problem is that on the other side of the facing I have what looks like about 3 or 4 inches too much fabric. I basted the assembly together and turned the pieces all right side out to see if the excess would go away and it does NOT. How do I need to alter the facing pieces and the facing pattern pieces to be able to get the facings to fit flat and smooth?
Thanks
Pat
 
Posts: 113 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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One thing you can do is to make new facings, copying your back and front of the shirt.Trace the area, and add seam allowances if needed.True pattern pieces before cutting out.Just my two cents worth Smiler


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Posts: 1535 | Location: Ontario. Canada | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<Colleen>
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Mr. Pat,
Here's a bit of extra help. When you stitch the facings to the garment, fold over and press the facings in place, then go back and lay the facings right side up flat against the bed of your sewing machine with the seam allowances laying underneath the facing. Directionally stitch around the facings at 1/16th to 1/8th inch inside the seam line on the facings. Then you can grade and trip the seam allowances so that they will lay flatter. I also match the shoulder seam allowances and either stitch the facings to the shoulder by stitching in the ditch---or on elegant garments, I baste the seams together with needle and thread or straight silk pins, then I catch the seam allowance of the garment and the facing between my thumb and fingers. Fold everything else out of the way, and stitch the seams allowances together on one side of the seam only. The stitching line is placed as close to the actual shoulder seam as possible. Again I grade the facing seam allowances.
Hope this is helpful.
 
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Colleen,
The problem is not instalation, the problem is as near as I can figure out a DS problem that I would have thought should have been fixed by version 6. The problem is that the angle from the collar point on the shoulder seam to the sleeve side of the facing at the same place does not appear to be acute enough and as a result there is an inch or so amount of excess material on each side of the facing's shoulder seam. It isn't a pucker but has that effect when the facing is turned in. The Armstrong book says that the angle should be increased to compensate for the fact that the facing is inside tha garment and should be slightly smaller also. Hopefully I haven't confused the issue more here.
Bye
Pat
 
Posts: 113 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Pat,

The DS facings are not as sophisticated as we might wish for at this time.

I think your best bet is to true the facing to the pattern (or draw your own). Then, if there is an adjustment in Armstrong or another source that works for you, go ahead and make that adjustment. You would likely have to do that with most commercial patterns as well.

There are many kinds of facings and the program will not offer all that we can imagine. Off the top of my head I can think of at least 6 kinds of facings that I typically use for shirts. DS offers only one. My choice will depend on the fabric and other details I have chosen. Add to that the helpful hints we find in various places and the number of possibilities increases even more. That's why I draft most of my facings with my pencil.
 
Posts: 190 | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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faacigns should and almost must be dealt with during "pattern preparation".

Rough cut the facing leaving excess paper. Place the facing on top of the pattern piece it faces, true to the exact stitch line, adjust the "outer edge" curve. BEFORE cutting away all the excess paper.

Kaaren


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Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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