quote:

Originally posted by DressShopBob:
Yes, I see that behavior. It happens if you turn the reference lines on and off while viewing the Fit Tool.

What a relief! I'm so glad you were able to duplicate the problem. BTW it happens for me even if I open the software, select a pattern, turn on the refs w/amts, and THEN go into the Fit Tool.

So maybe the Fit Tool won't be so confusing after all! Thank you!

quote:

Originally posted by DressShopBob:
I see that behavior. It happens if you turn the reference lines on and off while viewing the Fit Tool. The values without the reference lines are the correct ones, so the advice that Tessa gave earlier (leave those off while using the Fit Tool) is safest till the fixed version is released. This has now been corrected for the next update.

THANK YOU!

So glad I was able to explain it so that you could see what we were seeing.

Some of these message are overlapping -- responding to something that is answered in a message already in the queue for posting. So sorry if it looks as if we're ignoring earlier responses ... just haven't seen them yet. Sometimes the postings arrive in my inbox in jumbled order, too, but I'm not going to try to figure that one out.


I may have double thank-you messages as well. I know I wrote one yesterday after seeing Bob's announcement that there will be a fix but don't know if it is still in the queue or if it flitted into cyberspace.

hopefully answers to my other questions are also pending --
how many fit levels should be available in the Fit Tool? 4 or 5? I think Close Fit and Very Close Fit are menu divisions not Fit Tool options
Why doesn't a Thigh-Ease amount show in the Fit Tool? (at least for the Slim Fit pant).
When working with the Slim Fit Pant in the Fit Tool, is there any way to adjust the calf ease since supposedly that pant drafts from thigh to calf? or just fiddle with knee & ankle to adjust the calf?

One "nevermind" -- My questions about how Kaaren works with the Fit Tool ease with Reference Lines on is now moot since Bob says a fix will be coming. I'm so glad that I don't have to learn a workaround process.


Ohhh I just found my "missing" post -- it's on Page 2! I'll leave the double thank-you since there are other items included above and I don't want to rewrite the post.

(If you can't find Page 2 either, Scroll down to the last message and look in the lower right-hand corner, just above the word "Reply." There you will see Page 1 2 -- click on 2 to continue reading messages. Or look in the top right-hand corner, it's there too)

Thanks to Gayle for bringing up this topic. I have found the same thing when using the fit tool, but was never sure how to write it up so that it could be re-produced. You did a great job. Thanks also to Bob for recognizing the problem and finding the fix. I will look forward to having the tool work properly, as it did when it was first introduced.

quote:

hopefully answers to my other questions are also pending --
how many fit levels should be available in the Fit Tool? 4 or 5? I think Close Fit and Very Close Fit are menu divisions not Fit Tool options
Why doesn't a Thigh-Ease amount show in the Fit Tool? (at least for the Slim Fit pant).
When working with the Slim Fit Pant in the Fit Tool, is there any way to adjust the calf ease since supposedly that pant drafts from thigh to calf? or just fiddle with knee & ankle to adjust the calf?

Anyone know the answers? Thanks

1.
The fit tool has varying levels depending on the pattern class chosen
pants have close std fitted casual and comfort
blouses have very close, close, std fitted casual and comfort
open each garment category and see the number of fit levels for each.

Outerwear such as jackets offers no design ease, fitted std or casual and comfort.

2
Thigh ease may be user defined for slim fit pants.
Click: pants > close fit,> slim fit, click fit tool its the 7th box down and works.

3 calf ease is not ammendable by itself. Change the bottom width or ankle ease and it will adjust from hem to knee.

Kaaren

quote:

1.
The fit tool has varying levels depending on the pattern class chosen
pants have close std fitted casual and comfort
blouses have very close, close, std fitted casual and comfort
open each garment category and see the number of fit levels for each.

Outerwear such as jackets offers no design ease, fitted std or casual and comfort.

Sorry, I must not have been clear. I was talking about the Fit Tool. I must have misunderstood your earlier post because you're actually talking about the fit levels available in the menu categories. In the Fit Tool I have these 4 only: No Design Ease At All, Standard Fit (per design), Casual Fit, and Comfort Fit. I thought maybe I was missing the Very Close Fit and Close Fit options.

Also -- I was trying to find guidance about when/why I would choose No Design Ease At All. I understand the other three but am wondering how this option is used. I looked in the Manual and the Help Files but didn't find the discussion of this fit level.

quote:

2
Thigh ease may be user defined for slim fit pants.
Click: pants > close fit,> slim fit, click fit tool its the 7th box down and works.

Sorry, I guess I didn't phrase the question properly. I know that there is a Thigh Ease box in the Fit Tool and that we can put in any number we want (with varying degrees of success). My question is that when -- say for Slim Fit Pants -- if I choose Casual Fit, ease is applied to abs, hips, thigh, knee and ankle -- but the amounts of thigh ease do not appear in the Fit Ease boxes while the others do.

The User Manual says that the Fit Tool lets you see exactly how much ease is applied to every measurement in every pattern in Dress Shop.

I was just wondering why Thigh Ease wasn't showing up.

quote:

3 calf ease is not ammendable by itself. Change the bottom width or ankle ease and it will adjust from hem to knee.

Thanks. That's what I figured was happening. I was just a little confused because the documentation states that the Slim Fit Pants use the lower leg measurements in their draft and that shaping at thigh, calf, and knee can be more precise. And that thigh and calf measurements control the shaping of the outseam. I was just wondering how to make an adjustment in the calf area.

I misunderstood that we could do that when I read in the manual that users can adjust waist, abdomen, hips, crotch, thigh, calf, inseam, and outseams of pants. I guess it is alluding to collateral ease here because we can change the thigh (and knee and/or ankle which weren't mentioned).

That explains that we should enter amounts in other areas and just look to see what the change does to the calf.


I know we're a few months away from Jan 1 but I've made a resolution to learn to use all the tools that I have at disposal on my desktop.

Thanks for any additional information that you can provide to fill in the blanks from the manual and help files. I know that it is difficult to write a document that covers all the questions that users may have.

First to clarify the very close and close fit items; The patterns that use those fit levels come with the spring/summer collection and active wear. if that collection is not activcated you won't see those fit levels.

When an ease level is set to 0 doesnt means its actually zero it means its at "default".

When to use no design ease.
There are several instances that imemdiatly spring to mind.

1 stretch fabrics ..I often go to no design ease for a slightly stretchy fabric and just add where I think Ill need it. example a no design ease shell works great for me in an interlock.

2 when you want to start at the base block for a pattern and have very specific KNOWN needs for the design/the environment you will wear the design/ the fabric and so on.

I know I keep harping on this fact but you need to know where you are starting and just as importantly where you want to go.

IF you have a KNOWN mapped garment.ie; you have carefully measured a gament you want to "clone" starting with no design ease starts you with a pretty blank screen to which you can add and subtract ease to match the "mapped" garment.

Starting at relatively true zero and adding ease at body points ( all of them) and then checking what additional collateral ease "happened" you can adjust the numbers.

Included in this mapping are such things as neck width and depth, shoulder extensions, and ease from tip to toe.

BUT you must KNOW and define all those decisions that DS makes for you with "default choices".

You would NOT use this chocie if you know you just want a tad more butt room or a bit less bicep ease...then you would "adjust" a default fit level.

BUT if you are doing a design from scratch and have all the information you need for the entire mapping you Could use this choice on any silhouette or even some designs.

Though in most instances the design versus silhouette which we have discussed at great length is less likely to behave if you have a raised neckline, cowl neckline, or something that requires a preset configuration to give you that specialty element.


This feature is not what I would think of as a beginner or maybe even an intermediate function..but would mainly be used by those with a great deal of background and accumulated data as to what the concept will produce.

YOU can contour a skirt and peg the beast to fit every bump and curve..stay away from mosquitos....if thats wearable or not remains a question.

Ease is made up of design ease and wear ease.thats what all the numbers refer to.

Its the collateral ease that throws you for a loop.

The front and back draft based on each their own numbers.

Its amazing hows one's front wont mesh up and align with ones back.just plain straight off.

So after coming up with a draft in those mili seconds between your command to draft it.the program will draft/redraft oodles of times till it reaches a state thats deemed acceptable in program speak where the front and back are in range of meeting each other.
It does that by adding fractions of inches of ease at key body positions ( the waist gets hits the most with the most extra ease).

Sharp angles, over deep sharp curves are avoided. An upper or lower dart take up will be altered so they can form a double eye dart. The metjod used is to add ease.

The very high thigh on pants will not be less than the mid thigh and as you adjust mid thigh the high thigh is adjusted automacially and never separatly as the hip leading to it, the inseam values, waist hip curve and etc are all INvolved in that computation...

While every attempt to make the program fit tool allow you ultimate control that control is within the paramters of what's changeable at that spot without destroying the entire pattern.

One of my jobs is to try and break it....and Ive gotten very very good at it.

If a specific entry will just about always break something we have either flag it to only change within a window of numbers or removed the option for the user to change that point.

draft with grid on.measure the results KNOW where you are starting then adjust ease to what you have LEARNED s what you want to meet the design spec you are building.
Kaaren

quote:

First to clarify the very close and close fit items; The patterns that use those fit levels come with the spring/summer collection and active wear. if that collection is not activcated you won't see those fit levels.

Sorry all. I tried to explain to Kaaren that only she and I will see these fit levels in the Fit Tool, but she must have missed that point in my email to her. Before she repeats this further, nobody except Kaaren and I have options in the Fit Tool for "close fit" and "very close fit". These are "designer mode" features that have not been released with any product to date. They are included among many designer tools that Kaaren and I have enabled on our systems, which we use to make new patterns and new collections. Some day we will release these tools, but they are not out there at this time.

Ow..sorry everyone.I read Bob's note and it went over my head. My apologies to anyone I caused any confusion to.

Kaaren