Can anyone shed any light on what I may have done to cause the following? Back in October I drafted a pair of fitted pants (I was then using DS 6.13). I never got round to making up the pants until this weekend when I re-drafted a pair of fitted pants (using 6.16) only to find a large different in the way the side seam at the back had drafted. On my old pattern the seam line more or less touches the abdodem and hip reference lines but on the new pattern these lines are drafting a good inch or so further out (back only).

I've re-drafted using the slim fit pattern and this bulgle at the back goes away - ie the slim fit drafts to my reference lines once again.

Can anyone explain why this is happening?

Thanks
Rhoda

Reading about your post here,I think is what your refering to, is the amount of ease?usually theres a space on the pattern piece, where the line stops before it hits the outseam line.Better to check the quarter scale before printing in full scale,count squares etc and adjust as needed, in tools you can add or subtract the amount you need. Read the help about this page also for more information in the tower section.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Llantrisant,

You dont say if you had darts and how many in the pant draft.
The dart take up is added to waist changing the otuseam shape. when the darts are closed the shape will return to soemthing more "body like".
Kaaren

quote:

Can anyone shed any light on what I may have done to cause the following? Back in October I drafted a pair of fitted pants (I was then using DS 6.13). I never got round to making up the pants until this weekend when I re-drafted a pair of fitted pants (using 6.16) only to find a large different in the way the side seam at the back had drafted. On my old pattern the seam line more or less touches the abdodem and hip reference lines but on the new pattern these lines are drafting a good inch or so further out (back only).

I've re-drafted using the slim fit pattern and this bulgle at the back goes away - ie the slim fit drafts to my reference lines once again.

Can anyone explain why this is happening?

The space between any reference line and the outseam is either excess ease (which you do not want in the back ab, of course) or dart intake.

Look at your pants waist, for instance. The outseam is beyond the end of the waist reference lines by the width of the waist dart. When those darts are sewn closed, that outseam will be pulled inwards by the dart amount and end up being at the waist width when you are done.

The same is true at the back ab level. The back waist darts generally (not always) go deeper than the back ab. If that is the case, then there needs to be a gap between the reference line and the outseam that is equal to the dart width at that point.

For many users, the dart width at ab level has no effect on their pants since the back hip line controls the outseam and it is beyond the ab line plus dart width in any case. But, if you back ab measure is close to your back hip measure, then adding the dart width to ab width will make that position / line control the outseam.

Why do the slim fit pants not do this? The cases where not allowing for waist darts made pants too tight in the back ab was reported by several users of the fitted pants pattern last October and the change was attempted in those patterns. We have had mixed reports on the results. No longer tight at the ab, but that bulge can be significant and some users do not like that result.

There are many ways to fix the bulge. Shorten the back waist darts and it goes away. Add more back center dart and it goes away. Which fix is best? We have not had any consensus on that. So, the change has not yet been extended to the slim fit designs. That has not mattered too much yet as those that tend to have back ab measurements close to back hip measurements don't generally choose the slim fit patterns.

If we ever get any broad consensus on how to allow for ab dart intake and automatically adjust all back waist darts to something that appeals to all, then we will do that change to all the pants patterns. Not there just yet...

Bob,
When you shorten the back dart on my pants, starting at the ab line going down the outseam tapers in 5/8 inches at the hip area. I sent in a problem report asking about the bulge, Kaaren replied that the shortened darts had been change. But twice I mentioned that the the outseam tapering in and I still have received not replay to that.
Marcia in redrocks

From Bob
There are many ways to fix the bulge. Shorten the back waist darts and it goes away. Add more back center dart and it goes away. Which fix is best? We have not had any consensus on that. So, the change has not yet been extended to the slim fit designs. That has not mattered too much yet as those that tend to have back ab measurements close to back hip measurements don't generally choose the slim fit patterns.

Rhoda and Marcia, on the list of Updates posted see all the changes that affected pants. Rhoda, all the updates since DS6.13. Marcia, you don't say which build you're using so I'd say start with the build you had, and all the ones to the build you have now. You may not find the exact answer but you might find an explanation that will provide a better understanding for the change you're seeing.

Diane
I am using 6.16, In 6.14 I had the best fitting pants I've ever had since ver.1
Several versons ago Bob asked me to experment with changing the darts for the people whose ab and hip were very close to the same size. That is how the shorter darts came to be. They were working great for me. I don't know how they were working for other people. I was led to believe that It would shorten the darts for people that that had the ab/hip close to the same measurement. Then ver. 6.16 came along that had the side bulge for the fitted pants. I shortened the darts as suggested. But in doing that it brought the side seams in 5/8 at hip level that is not right. But it did take out the side bulge.