As we have been discussing the skort, I have a question regarding it's drafting. I have noticed that the back center drafts around an inch shorter than my fitted pants when I bring up that pattern over it. Has anyone noticed a problem with this? It does match the crotch exactly except there's about an inch at the center waist back and didn't know if this would make it too tight in the back crotch area. Not sure why it would draft this way. Is there a reason?

quote:

Originally posted by Cindy S:
As we have been discussing the skort, I have a question regarding it's drafting. I have noticed that the back center drafts around an inch shorter than my fitted pants when I bring up that pattern over it. Has anyone noticed a problem with this? It does match the crotch exactly except there's about an inch at the center waist back and didn't know if this would make it too tight in the back crotch area. Not sure why it would draft this way. Is there a reason?

Hadn't check it this way, but I will now, since I'm just about to lay the pattern on the fabric. Thanks for the "heads up."

That's because it is using the FTW Front and Back (straight) measurements. Skirts and looser fit trouser use the (straight) measurements while Fitted Pants use the (conformed).

Skort and culottes patterns usually have a slightly looser crotch but I have not checked how Dress Shop is drafting their versions.

Since it doesn't seem any looser in the crotch, won't this make the crotch too tight?

quote:

Originally posted by Cindy S:
Since it doesn't seem any looser in the crotch, won't this make the crotch too tight?

Cindy,
I know it seams like it would not work, but it will. I have made fitted pants. Now I think when you say that it drafts about an inch shorter you mean that it is does not angle up at the waist, but is straight. This is because the fitted pants drafts to the FTW conformed and the skort drafts to the FTW straight.

I made semi-fitte that draft to the FTW straight, just like the skort. They fit great, real great. I don't know if this is the reason, but the skort, semi-fitted, trouser and others like that are wider in the hip area. Does this give more room in the crotch? I don't know, but maybe it gives more room for the hips and waist to spread into and thus you don't feel tight in the crotch. Just my two cents.

If you have made nothing but the fitted pants and others which drafts to the FTW conformed, it is definitely worth it to make a "test" garment out of the skort or trouser or any other pant that drafts to the FTW straight because that number is not checked on the sloper. If it is off this is where it you will find it.
HTH,
Linda Flint

Is there a list of those patterns which draft with FTW fitted vs FTW conformed? I don't think it says which is which on the pattern itself unless I am missing something.
Duckie

Floor to waist straight versus conformed.
If tis a very oloose fit ie Hareem pants, loose trousers, etc its straight
enythign with a fit dress pants, fitted slim fit even semi fitted are floor to waist conformed.

Kaaren

Thanks for the info on the floor to waist conformed vs floor to waist fitted patterns.
Duckie