First let me apologize if this is clear as mud. I am trying to help someone get thier sloper correct using the fitted pants in DS.

There is as much as or more than 6" of excess material in the center back waist. We tried correcting this using the CB Dart tool. When we do this it makes the back darts slant out to the side seams drastically. I went through all of the messages trying to find an answer to this and then read that there was a correction for the Center Back Waist Dart not adjusting properly. I thought that must be the problem. I then downloaded and installed update DS 6.18.

To check what the changes are I have printed out a 25% scale and for the life of me I do not see any difference in 6.17 and 6.18 when using the CB dart.

What are we needing to do to get rid of the excess material in the center back and at the same time keep the back darts from slanting out to the side?

Any help is more than appreciated.

Thanks,
Rena Evans
DS PRO 6.18 and all the tools

quote:

Originally posted by Sewalong:
First let me apologize if this is clear as mud. I am trying to help someone get thier sloper correct using the fitted pants in DS.

There is as much as or more than 6" of excess material in the center back waist. We tried correcting this using the CB Dart tool. When we do this it makes the back darts slant out to the side seams drastically. I went through all of the messages trying to find an answer to this and then read that there was a correction for the Center Back Waist Dart not adjusting properly. I thought that must be the problem. I then downloaded and installed update DS 6.18.

To check what the changes are I have printed out a 25% scale and for the life of me I do not see any difference in 6.17 and 6.18 when using the CB dart.

What are we needing to do to get rid of the excess material in the center back and at the same time keep the back darts from slanting out to the side?

Any help is more than appreciated.

Thanks,
Rena Evans
DS PRO 6.18 and all the tools

I can't totally remember this with DS, since I seldom use it these days,did you check the chart with this huge difference?,there may be a typo there or comma.Or something is stuck in the measurement area, if you can't put in the change you said you tried to do,someone will help you soon Rena, sit tight.

Thanks for trying LL, but there is no typo. The only way I can describe it is that she has a deep hollow spot in the middle of her back. And the excess material is directly in the center of the back waist. I'm sure someone has probably worked with this problem before and will be able to come up with an answer for us. Thanks Again,
Rena

Rena,
I have had this problem forever and the CB doesn't work too well for me because of the slanting darts. The only way I have been able to eliminate some of the extra fabric is to cheat on the waist and ab measurements, and to gently lengthen the back darts a bit. Do all three of these in increments until you think you might have a fix, then do a muslin. You might even consider putting an elastic in the back waist three to four inches out from the zipper ( if you use a zipper). The CB dart was meant to help, but those of us with a definite swayback are still trying to solve the problem(?) of a shapely backside. Today I am going to make a MPD fitted pant and will tell you how they turned out.
Kelly

Hi Kelly, would be very interested in your results. Seems no matter what I do I have at least 4-6 inches of extra material. I have lied about my back waist, an used the cb intake at 6 inches and still it won't work. If we change the back darts to take up more do we need to lenghten the dart???
Still trying and won't give up....

Thanks Kelly, I will try your suggestions. We have tried everything else to no avail.
I thought perhaps we were the only ones having problems with this.

I also thought perhaps that I would get someone from the staff to address this. But, I am sad to see that I have noticed that several questions addressed by MPD owners since I posted this have been answered rather quickly on the list. And yet no one seems to be addressing DS owners issues any longer. Leads me to believe that DS owners are now out on a limb with out a life line.

Rena

quote:

If we change the back darts to take up more do we need to lenghten the dart???
Still trying and won't give up....

Depends on the shape of your backside. The dart depth is a formula which works for a large number of users but not every user.

If the shape is very flat, or very round you may wish to adjust dart length longer or shorter...we "know" where the abd depth is - the small of the back - and you told the program where the hip is based on your floor to hip placement. But we don't know if the "plane" between abd and hip is flat, gently curved or a shelf dropping to a very round bottom or "box".

People with extreme fits due to shape may have some sucess playing with the floor to hip..consider the outseam between waist and hip is a bezier curve with two end points ( waist and hip) with the curve/bend being at the midline point ( generally around the abd) so those depths (waist to hip is computed by the program as f/w-f/hip ) become rather important.

Kaaren

WOW! I guess I am more confused now than I was to begin with as to how to get rid of this excess material in the CB. From what I am understanding everyone to say, it maybe that there is no way to get rid of it on every user. That is not very encouraging.

Rena

quote:

But, I am sad to see that I have noticed that several questions addressed by MPD owners since I posted this have been answered rather quickly on the list. And yet no one seems to be addressing DS owners issues any longer.

Sevweral things over the last efw weeks. DS Bob is no longer monitoring this list and devoting his efforts to MPD..and I have been making my east coast west coast move with a week on the road and a week on either end to close and reopen houses......

I would like you to direct me by private email to the emails "I have missed" and didnt respond to.
Kaaren

Hi Kaaren,

I was the one that started this blog on excess material in the CB. I did so on Oct 16th and have gotten no replys up until today from the DS staff. Sorry, it is not my intentions to offend anyone, but I have noticed that you and Bob have addressed MPD questions during this time period. That was why I was inclined to believe that DS questions were no longer being addressed.

All of that being said, is there an answer for ridding the excess material in the CB area? We have played with the CB dart and the back darts until we are blue in the face. Our latest efforts caused the darts to slant out to the side horribly. I would hate to keep beating a dead bush if this can not be accomplished with the DS program.

Thanks,
Rena

Hio Rena.Ive been effectively off lines since 08 October havign arrived in my winter home this past weekend then plagued with a series of High speed problems..

When there is a great deal of difference between the back waist and the abd or hip theres a lot of darting/shapign required.
so one by one Ill go over each of the measurements that effect this.

first the center back waist dart is forumla and you can effect both the dart take up and the side seam shaping. When you increase the cbwd what you are doing is changing the angle of the back crotch fork and making it greater.

If your darts are then slanting too much it means you are attempting to take out all the excess using the crotch fork angle. A 6 " cbwd is rather extreme and as can be expected it will pull the fabric below the "dart effect" off grain.

So the deal is you need to spread the wealth to more places.including the dart take up itself.

Now before you go adding a pile to the back darts and there are 4 of them so each dart take up can have a portion of the excess and the cbwd has a portion so everything stays nice and smooth.....


I want to put in a few graphics so let me continue this post over on the "class forum here in the bbs......." Ill get it written/crudely drawn then post here when Im done......

Kaaren

Thanks You so much Kaaren for the PDF. We will try to use this information over the weekend and see if we can't come with a solution to the center back dart problem. I reread my earlier post and it did seem a bit short. Believe me that was not my intentions. I hope you accept my apology if that was the way you took it. Enough said before I put my foot in my mouth again. GGGG's

Rena

Kaaren, what about when making jeans with a back yoke? I made a pair of jeans after having a "wearable muslim" and they fit well except the cb. I cut out over 4 inches, and it was still way too large.

quote:

Now before you go adding a pile to the back darts and there are 4 of them so each dart take up can have a portion of the excess and the cbwd has a portion so everything stays nice and smooth.....

I can't seem to find the pdf. Can someone please let me know where it is. Much appreciated.

quote:

Originally posted by Jacqui Gates:
I can't seem to find the pdf. Can someone please let me know where it is. Much appreciated.

Jaque Go back to forum named dress shop, look down the list to where it says class notes find it there.