got it thanks
Jacqui

Can you be more specific about the pants pdf? I am looking in the class notes on the webboard, but that is obviously not where I need to be. TIA

quote:

I reread my earlier post and it did seem a bit short. Believe me that was not my intentions. I hope you accept my apology if that was the way you took it. Enough said before I put my foot in my mouth again. GGGG's

No apology necessary...the brief written message is often nothing like a conversation face to face with facial "signs" and no one has to tell me about frustration getting a fit.

Yes- its hard to remember those uncomfortable garments from a not there RTW fit.It's been a long time since I had to wear one. I havent shortened a skirt or pants in over 10 years....nor reset a shoulder/sleeve.I do HATE alterations! But.I do remember well enough to shudder.


Pn fit your sloper remeasured the pin fit garment...remove what excesses you find. If you need to take a 6 inch pleat spread thre wealth over both waist darts and cbwd but first check yru back waist measurement where the pants fit.are they at waist or slightly below it or above it....if they dotn sit dead on the waist line in back correct the floor to waist till they are.

I dont look at the entire pattern when im "reviewing it".I break it into 4 quadrants by simply making gently fold lines in it.Then concentrate on each quadrant.what measuring lines cross that quadrant........if the pattern lines are nice n soooth thats good, if they get a little "jerky" or you have a real almond shaped or j shaped crotch when you place front to back so extensions meet and you can SEE the crotch U..you have some bad vertical numbers.concentrate on them.

Focusing in focuses your attention to the problem and suddenly its "visible" - pin the pattern (painters tape works well) just like you pinned the muslin focus in on a 6-10" box around the pleat ( or slash) puckers are too tight and originate AT the problem, wrinkles indicate an excess and POINT to the problem..

One other thing.if you are fortunate enough to own a pair of pants that fit measure them- the body depth for DS users across the bottom of the U- the croch lengths front and back- and the hip....UIf the closest "good fit" is just a bit too tight at abd.measure everything including abd and how much more you want to add to it....compare with your chart....adjust as needed....

If all you ever wear is a stretch pant- dont do this.the stretch is providing the fit ease and remember how different a woven FEELS from a stretch.

Use what you have and what tools you have to determine where you want to start.If you know you like a thigh ease of +3 or +8 that will drop you into the proper fit level.If you know your perfect bottom width at hem is 14 or 24 you again have the "key" to get started.


way too long.sorry, Ill go back to work now.

Kaaren

quote:

Kaaren, what about when making jeans with a back yoke? I made a pair of jeans after having a "wearable muslim" and they fit well except the cb. I cut out over 4 inches, and it was still way too large.

Aha.....ladies with a huge cbwd can be more assured if they do a normal pattern prep which Im always nagging and harping on.

You have a good "pant fit" and the pattern.
Now you want to do a yoke and you don't have the extra darts. But the dart option isnt grayed out- you may still enter a cbwd number and that will take care of all of the excess for over 90% of our users.The unfortunate few it wont have to play the pencil game.

print or take your saved darted pattern with cbwd and dart adjustments ( if needed) and put it on your cutting table,score the darts so they fold easily and fold them into the finished position and use a binder clip to hold them in place. MAKE SURE YOU ARE APPLYING THE SAME FIT LEVEL AS YOUR JEANS. standard or close or semi.whatever..they must be the same fit level!

print your jeans yoke and leg, true seam allowances- abutt the yoke to the pant piece overlapping the seam allowances so stitch lines are on stich lines- if you have a pinnable mat.pin to the mat.if not you can use little dots of low stitch painters tape.

Overlay the fitted closed dart pat onto the combined jean pieces.
Trace the outline of the closed darted waist onto the jeans yoke.....if its mere pencil widths here and there....stop its good

if you have an extra inch or more....then you need to consider "darting" the yoke select where the pant dart placement is and just pencil dot the position of the darts on the jeans yoke.. and slash thru the yoke almost to the bottom side, overlap the cut edges( pie shaped) till you have taken out the excess- if its more than 3/4-1" do 2 as if they were darts if tis under 1 inch you could do just one dead middle of the dart marks you made... tape down in place flat. You have a perfectly adjusted yoke. Once more time compare by overlay the fited waist in its finished shape to the yoke.

WE make flat patterns- the body isnt flat- the patterns are really excellent but there is the fitting challenge due to shape that isnt always 1000% IF you have a posture issue ( scoliosis or a shape issue) other than the "average definition" thats beyond pure numbers.

Just do it (nike) ....this fix takes about 30 seconds...do it once, make a template of the yoke in muslin and hang it in your closet....its good till you gain/lose weight.

Kaaren

adjust_jeans_yoke.gif (7 Kb, 30 downloads) graphic jeans yoke

attached to a post under the class header in the DS/MPD forum on these pages.
K

thank you for all the wonderful information. 50% of this I 'should' have figured out for myself....

Kaaren, in one of your informational posts you said the change the floor to waist if the back seam is not resting on your waistline. I have always tried working with the crotch length. Is this wrong? Also, my crotch depth has always been 11". Am I missing this specific measurement on the chart because I don't remember seeing it. TIA again! Kelly

I am not sure from your post what it is you want to change.

Floor to waist determines the length from the floor to the waist- nothing else will change the over all length of the pant.

Floor to inseam determines the "leg" length.

Floor to waist minus inseam = the crotch depth or torso depth.

The crotch depth or rise may vary between center front, back or side if you have a tilted waist.

Crotch length is the length of the inside crotch fork from inseam point to waist- the three parts of the crotch fork are the vertical - angled in back/straight in front, the curve break and the extension which passes between the legs.

Raising or lowering the floor to waist will effect how the crotch fork drafts- if you shorten the f/w you will have more crotch length to fit in the vertical depth of the crotch which may then J, hook. If you lenthen the f/w you are increasing the vertical depth of the crotch and pulling the crotch inseam point downwards into an almond shape, narrowing the crotch opening when you face the front and back inseam points together to see the "U".

To lengthen both leg and torso depth the only thing that works is changing the floor to waist.

Then adjust crotch length so the fork itself shapes to the body. The extensions are a formula based on a percent of hip ( of each front and back not total)

The center back dart functions by adjusting the angle of the back crotch fork. For instance my back hip is 21 and my computed back extension is 4.17.-almost double what my front extension of 2.17 based on front hip of 22.


My cbwd computes at default at a lower number than what I use for each darted waist pant- at 2.075 again a percentage of back hip - this is on the low side for those with any "rounding" to the backside. My feeling was that more of our users have a slightly flatter, dropped bottom than a high muscular rounded tush so I went for a "majority" percent. This is very easy to adjust. I pesonally use 3.75. Its not scarey to sue douible the amount as needed and once computed by pinning out excess waist on your pant sloper it is consistent.

If you go ahead and double the cbwd(before accuratly measuring on the sloepr) value you may get a bit of a wedgie if you dont need that much , simply reduce the value till you get what you want.

Each of us wears our pants slightly differently as to personal fit choices. The crotch fit may take micro changes with big results.work in small numbes on f/w and crotch length adjustments.

Kaaren

Thanks, Kaaren. I was unaware of the F to W being the only thing that would truly change the overall length of the pant. I have been putzing (a technical term) around with the crotch length for years, not being very happy with the results. I am sure the info has been out there, but I just haven't seen it. Another clarification, Does this also apply in MPD as well as DS?

YES
K