Can someone please explain why the side seam on the bodice sloper does not draw to the length specified in the chart?

The explanation of ss len says measure from where you want ss to begin (at top) to waist.

When I measure printed back sloper from waist up, it is short by almost an inch and back armscye too long by same amount.

On the front sloper top of ss begins at correct point under the arm but actual measurement (taken from top of ss to waist)is almost an inch too short.

Is this the way it is supposed to be?

quote:

Originally posted by J Vallee:
Can someone please explain why the side seam on the bodice sloper does not draw to the length specified in the chart?

The explanation of ss len says measure from where you want ss to begin (at top) to waist.

When I measure printed back sloper from waist up, it is short by almost an inch and back armscye too long by same amount.

On the front sloper top of ss begins at correct point under the arm but actual measurement (taken from top of ss to waist)is almost an inch too short.

Is this the way it is supposed to be?

If theres a dart in the sloper bust area, then it will be why they don't seem to line up,but the program adjusts for this,hence front is shorter than the back.Fold out the dart then measure the front and back.

Thanks for your reply.

However I do realize how to fold out the dart and the total ss measurement is still off.

All other measurements in the chart draft properly on the sloper, i.e, full len frnt, frnt sh slp, ctr frnt, ctr bk, full len bk, bk sh slp and armhl dpth, bust span & depth, x chest frnt & bk etc... i.e. paper measurement match the chart.

I still do not understand why ss len does not do the same.

Does anyone know the answer to this???
Jean

They were never intended to match the chart

Now I'm really scratching my head. My ultimate goal is to replicate a form fitting (no ease) top. The armhole is high and I require a specific side seam length. I have adjusted armhole ease to a minus amount but it's still not right.

I guess I want to know how to lie to DS to have it draft to specific masurements.

JV

quote:

Originally posted by J Vallee:
Now I'm really scratching my head. My ultimate goal is to replicate a form fitting (no ease) top. The armhole is high and I require a specific side seam length. I have adjusted armhole ease to a minus amount but it's still not right.

I guess I want to know how to lie to DS to have it draft to specific masurements.

JV

Don't get too innvolved in matching the sloper to what you think it should be,drive yourself crazy.DS does the work in drafting to your input measurements,the sloper is only to proof them,sloper adds ease where needed always,so you can put the thing on your body.Place a tape measure at your waist line,take it up into the armpit just above the bra,not at bra level.See how that works for you.

quote:

Now I'm really scratching my head. My ultimate goal is to replicate a form fitting (no ease) top. The armhole is high and I require a specific side seam length. I have adjusted armhole ease to a minus amount but it's still not right.

I guess I want to know how to lie to DS to have it draft to specific masurements.

There is a setting in the Fit Tool dialog that is labeled "No design ease at all". That is what that setting is for. If you find that you need to lie to the program to get it to draft to the measurements you want, then you have the wrong measurements entered for Dress Shop. Those numbers may be what you like and use elsewhere, but your Dress Shop numbers need to be something else. Change those and all patterns will work with the change. Negative ease should never be needed to get form fitting patterns if your measurements are right for Dress Shop.