20 January 2010, 03:00 PM
LlantrisantQuilting
I saw a jacket quilted on a website,I'm not sure,but she showed cutting out the pattern pieces first, allowing 1" all around the seams,I was curious.Has anyone ever tried that method?
I would think it would pull out of shape or something/end up too small.

20 January 2010, 03:53 PM
Diane in VAThat's why you cut the pattern pieces larger. If the filler is very thick, or you plan do do a lot of prequilting, you might leave an even bigger seam allowance. It can be easier to quilt the smaller pattern pieces than a big chunk of fabric. After the pieces are quilted, you replace the paper patterns on the chunks and cut them to size.
20 January 2010, 04:45 PM
bobbieannFreda,
I agree with Diane. That's how I make my crazy quilted wearables. It works great. Oooh that reminds me I have to finish a cq jacket that has
been hanging in my sewing room for quite a while, while making more clothes since my weight loss.
Bobbieann
20 January 2010, 05:56 PM
Kaaren HobackThe major quilting I've done for wearable art is either charm or just patchwork - only 1 or 2 applique items. or fabric + lace + entredeux for heirloom items or hand or machine embroidery. Use your pattern to guide you for placement! Establish your long and cross grain FIRST on non quilted items. I make the fabric- either quilted or pleated with minimal seam allowances to reduce bulk , chalk- then baste a rough outline of the pattern, do my 'sandwich', quilt,or finish pleating,or smocking,or whateverm then retrace the pattern to allow for any take up cut and construct.
I have been applying the same process/principal for my silk painting on lingerie silks- not that there is much take up but the pieces need to be stretched to apply both the resists and paints so they are easier to work "square" and flat- but you also want to account for shaping and painted seam matches over connecting seams and darts. So the shaped pattern and darts are drawn on with *pencil, I use fabric air erase pens to mark the drawing to be painted and apply the resist doing only as much as I know I can complete within 24 hrs- I also create registration marks in pencil to see where to re start my drawings to keep them level and on grain.
*pencil: always test it can come out without staining or changing the surface.
I work with small seam allowances cause I'm way to lazy to recut and trim them later. As there are many ways to embellish your garments- there are equally as many ways to approach a project.
It would be wonderful if those creating wearable art from either DS or MPD shared their methods and photos.
Kaarenb
21 January 2010, 07:42 AM
LlantrisantNice tips thank you ladies,she did the jacket with lines so no applique's on it,with a thin batting fully lined too,she even put darts in the bodice after quilting!
24 January 2010, 05:41 AM
Llantrisantquote:
Originally posted by Llantrisant:
Nice tips thank you ladies,she did the jacket with lines so no applique's on it,with a thin batting fully lined too,she even put darts in the bodice after quilting!
I found the link on Threads.http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/9459/machine-quilt-a-supple-and-stylish-garment
25 January 2010, 08:21 PM
kstevensI've made a number of wearable art garments using both DS and MPD as well as commercial patterns before I had DS and MPD. The amount of "take-up" needed depends on how thick your filler is. I've used batiste, muslin, flannel and batting. I would also recommend you prewash your filler. Muslin and flannel I would probably wash at least twice. It's frustrating to spend all that time on a garment only to have it shrink when washed. Ask me how I know :-(. Use your prewashed filler as a foundation. Sew your pieces to it, quilt it, then lay your pattern over it and recut. Then construct as usual.
Karen in Lancaster Co. PA