I saw a jacket quilted on a website,I'm not sure,but she showed cutting out the pattern pieces first, allowing 1" all around the seams,I was curious.Has anyone ever tried that method?
I would think it would pull out of shape or something/end up too small.

That's why you cut the pattern pieces larger. If the filler is very thick, or you plan do do a lot of prequilting, you might leave an even bigger seam allowance. It can be easier to quilt the smaller pattern pieces than a big chunk of fabric. After the pieces are quilted, you replace the paper patterns on the chunks and cut them to size.

Freda,
I agree with Diane. That's how I make my crazy quilted wearables. It works great. Oooh that reminds me I have to finish a cq jacket that has
been hanging in my sewing room for quite a while, while making more clothes since my weight loss.

Bobbieann

The major quilting I've done for wearable art is either charm or just patchwork - only 1 or 2 applique items. or fabric + lace + entredeux for heirloom items or hand or machine embroidery. Use your pattern to guide you for placement! Establish your long and cross grain FIRST on non quilted items. I make the fabric- either quilted or pleated with minimal seam allowances to reduce bulk , chalk- then baste a rough outline of the pattern, do my 'sandwich', quilt,or finish pleating,or smocking,or whateverm then retrace the pattern to allow for any take up cut and construct.

I have been applying the same process/principal for my silk painting on lingerie silks- not that there is much take up but the pieces need to be stretched to apply both the resists and paints so they are easier to work "square" and flat- but you also want to account for shaping and painted seam matches over connecting seams and darts. So the shaped pattern and darts are drawn on with *pencil, I use fabric air erase pens to mark the drawing to be painted and apply the resist doing only as much as I know I can complete within 24 hrs- I also create registration marks in pencil to see where to re start my drawings to keep them level and on grain.
*pencil: always test it can come out without staining or changing the surface.

I work with small seam allowances cause I'm way to lazy to recut and trim them later. As there are many ways to embellish your garments- there are equally as many ways to approach a project.

It would be wonderful if those creating wearable art from either DS or MPD shared their methods and photos.


Kaarenb

Nice tips thank you ladies,she did the jacket with lines so no applique's on it,with a thin batting fully lined too,she even put darts in the bodice after quilting!

quote:

Originally posted by Llantrisant:
Nice tips thank you ladies,she did the jacket with lines so no applique's on it,with a thin batting fully lined too,she even put darts in the bodice after quilting!

I found the link on Threads.http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/9459/machine-quilt-a-supple-and-stylish-garment

I've made a number of wearable art garments using both DS and MPD as well as commercial patterns before I had DS and MPD. The amount of "take-up" needed depends on how thick your filler is. I've used batiste, muslin, flannel and batting. I would also recommend you prewash your filler. Muslin and flannel I would probably wash at least twice. It's frustrating to spend all that time on a garment only to have it shrink when washed. Ask me how I know :-(. Use your prewashed filler as a foundation. Sew your pieces to it, quilt it, then lay your pattern over it and recut. Then construct as usual.

Karen in Lancaster Co. PA