I am trying to duplicate a coat that I saw illustrated in a sales flyer. The walking tunic gives the silhouette of the original. The collar design is what is giving me problems. In the illustration it is a stand up collar from about 3 inches in the back to 2 inches in front (straight front edge), continues the lap over of the coat's front opening. Would the fitted collar worn up give the look I want? I am having trouble visualizing the collars. I thought about the mandarin collar but it doesn't lap over the center front.
Any design ideas, fellow DS users?
thanks for any help.
Lettie
DS Pro 6.14 + patch

Can you post a link to a picture of the coat?

Could it be a variation of a Shawl collar?

Thanks, Carolyn and Marilyn for your replies. I posted a pic of the coat in my Yahoo album. You should be able to reach it at http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/longterm54/album?.dir=8369

Marilyn, I believe it is an add-on collar rather than a shawl but maybe adaptations could be made?
thanks for all ideas
Lettie

I think you can use the mandarin as a base for this collar, first select the rounded mandarin, then the widest width you want for the collar back, add the length you want overlapping so the total length includes the overlap.

In the trial I used an additional 3.5 inches which was based on my placket width of 1.625 (which would be balanced for me you may desire more placket)

Keep the back width to shoulder t pin and then along the upper edge not neck edge start a gentle curve to front at that desired depth.(make a muslin trial of the neck edge and collar so you dotn waste good fabric!

You will have to finish the bottom edge of the collar beyond center before applying.

overlapping_collar.gif (11 Kb, 32 downloads) overlapping collar

quote:

I think you can use the mandarin as a base for this collar, first select the rounded mandarin, then the widest width you want for the collar back, add the length you want overlapping so the total length includes the overlap.

Thanks for the pic of this coat -- it's beautiful. And thanks, Kaaren, for the suggestion of how to get the collar! I think I'll have to try it!

Thanks for the link to the picture. It almost looks like a tall mandarin collar.

Thanks, Kaaren, for the extended mandarin collar. I wasn't thinking enough out of the box to extend it. The coat now is definitely on the to-do list!
Lettie

Thanks, Kaaren, for the extended mandarin collar. I wasn't thinking enough out of the box to extend it. The coat now is definitely on the to-do list!
Lettie

The thing about DS is you DO get to make all the decisions and there can be hundreds to make on even a simple garment.

Whats the fabric? is there stretch, what fit level, what neck, sleeve, length, little things like prefered cap ease, or in this case what length do you desire for the collar.

Default is just a starting position.From there you let your imagaination fly.

I like to make a very rough sketch over top a phantom croquis(my croqyuis printed in gray scale).As I do ( and everyone knows I cant "draw") I make little notes to myself about the neckline or shoulder extension, neck width, depth then how does that effect the neck finish or collar.. and thats just the very top of the upper torso.

If it helps get an online picture such as you have, lay a piece of copy paper over it, and DRAW the outline.as you trace each line over you get MORE visual....since you are no longer looking at the WHOLE garment but section by section as you draw it out!
You discover the neck width of the coat you gave us a pic of isnt really a true jewel neck but it is a bit wider than true jewel. Ill bet a good inch from the model pix!

Putting a snug wider mandarin on especially with a very thick coating would choke you!

Make sure theres sufficient room for TOC which is turn of cloth.

If the doubled fabric folded over measures a 1/2 inch "thick" you better have an inch over your "throat" measure which isnt on the chart.

Simple, obvious when you stop and realllllllly examine it and have the fabric in hand. So go ahead and layer fabric in the same numbers of layers including interfacing , even give it a gentle wrap around the neck and see how it feels... you don't have to cut a single scrap just pile em together as they will be used in construction. How much neck "width" will you require?? Planning a faux fur treatment add more width!! Now go into the neck tool and adjust your pattern before printing it out!


Kaaren

Oh one more thign.if you ahev ultimate outerwear or Illusions you ahev thwe ability to draft a lining with your coat.dont forget side pockets and maybe a hidden "breast or waist" pocket in the lining....which you can monogram before constructing......hey.why not....print your monogram in scale and cut it out: and find your placement for the actual embroidery!

on yoru pattern so it doesnt interfere with pockets or facings! pile the pattern peices as they will be used....that lovely coat probably has severala layers of interfacing in addition to thelining.in particular a chest shield.
Kaaren