Hi all

Just finished my sloper this week, still have a bit of tweeking for the pants but I thought the bodice was ok. However, I just made up the double V blouse and am very disappointed with the fit! What did I do wrong! The only thing that I changed on it was I added some bust darts to it. When I did the pattern I did think the dart was a bit high but...

Anyways, not only is it too high but the hip area is at least two inches tighter than I want it to be. I can probably make the vents go up higher so that will be loosened some but I also noticed that there is some wrinkling under the arm, especially around the dart area. The bodice sort of fits like I have it on backwards - knid of that awkward feel! Was I wrong to put a dart in it? What about the tightness around the hip - the only difficulty I still have with the pant sloper was in the crotch area - I didn't think that should affect the hip fit of a blouse.

I was so excited now I'm deflated. I really am tired of making stuff that doesn't work and I really tried hard on my sloper. Maybe I'm just not any good at judging the sloper fit. The bodice was quite tight but I figured that for the sloper that was good. The sleeves, darts were in the right places, shoulder length was good and I got the right length in the front and back. There was a bit of looseness in the Across shoulder front and I adjusted the measurement by 1/2" and didn't make a new sloper - should I have?

Sorry for going on a bit but I am frustrated!!!!

Going out now and hopefully will come back to this fresh tomorrow.

Lori

Just finished my sloper this week, still have a bit of tweeking for the pants but I thought the bodice was ok. However, I just made up the double V blouse and am very disappointed with the fit! What did I do wrong! The only thing that I changed on it was I added some bust darts to it. When I did the pattern I did think the dart was a bit high but...

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The double vee blouse is in the close fit menu and thats actually the wrong spot for it. it is actually a casual fit blouse.

Wrong place to start.

First finish the pant sloper.
The bodice proves your chart from shoulder to waist, not the abd and hip measurements which any full length blouse must also fit.

The sloper should have
a straight and true shoulder seam right down the middle of the shoulder,
a straight and true side seam bisecting the "skeleton" and not wavering or angling.
A perfect straight on side seam dart and waist dart pointing to apex that doesnt pucker
and no wrinkles or puckers anywhere.

Then you need to proceed to and finish the pant.

Now the entire torso is "proved"

Then make a fitted garment and a casual fit garment so you know what the ease at default is for these garments. Dont make out of expensive fabrics becuase while default may "work" it is the starting point from which you can add or subtract ease as per your preferences.

The fit levels go from very close ( lycra!!!)
Close a min of 25% stretch
standard ( fitted)
casual a relaxed fit
comfort a fairly looose fit.

Are you near an educator or user group??check the users helping users pages at the main website .

if a waist dart is too high front or back you have the bust depth and possibly span incorrect.

This blouse was designed without darts and you just might have pulled it in too close..but my instinct says you need a bit of help with your measurements.

Kaaren

Hi Kaaren

I just notice your reply - sorry about my other whining post. I wrote that post at 4:15 pm my time and that's where I looked for it - on this board it shows up at 1:57 pm - can I change my time setting so that the posts show up in "my time"?

I realize that the pants sloper is what would be needed to prove my ab and hips measurement but the only thing that is wrong is the crotch area - a bit more wrinkle there than I want and am still waiting for a reply from Terry Jerden about that. The ab and hip was good - Was I wrong to try the blouse without the perfect crotch ? Do you still think it's possible that my measurements are wrong? Unfortunately I am not anyway near a licensed educator. Maybe that's what I can be someday when I "grow Up" Judging by my lack of success this past very long while, I might never grow up!!

Fortunately the fabric I chose was inexpensive - cuz I've had way too many mistakes this past year! Thanks for the advice on where to start - once I get your reply about the pant sloper I would like to try again with some new fabric.

When I make my test garments - can I try the Double V Blouse without the darts as my casual fit piece?

Thanks again for your patience -

Oh yes

The side seams, shoulders, bust darts, sleeve - everything was quite good - just quite form fitting as it should be, right?

I would suggest a fitted blouse at the casual fit levl.
or the casual shell.

it can be a wearable muslin.inexpensive fabric for an at home, garden, shirt.

Kaaren