Please remind me how the slim fit pants draft.

1. I believe there is a straight line from the hip(??? or where) to the hem? If the leg needs to be larger all the way from hip to hem - does increasing the hem circumfrance do it?

2. Does the slim fit use the Floor to Waist straight or conformed measurments?

3. Center back dart - if I have a default CB dart of 1.5" and I can still pinch out 2", what should the entry in the box be - and how is it calculated?

Thanks,
Marie in CO
DS 6.16 Pro, Fit tool, Fashion Designer I + II +
MPD

Slim fit pants USE the thigh emasurement and can contour to the leg.
The dress pant drafts from leg to hip and uses the body depth measurement to control the fit in the upper leg.

ALL fitted pants use the floor to waist conformed measurements; only really loose baggy pants such as palazos use the f/w straight.

Yo put in the total cb dart you want.
The CB dart is a formyla based on the difference between waist and hip and a percentage is applied to figure the "default" or starting angle.

I sugegst you print rthe back pant in 1/4 scale tih grid on and reference lines.

under darts enter the defautl number from the box plus 2 (1.5 +2 = 3.5) and click redraft, print the pant back again.

NOW flip the pats upside down so hem is at top and match at hem and grain line.

if you want to remove an additional 2 inches total only 1 inch will show on the half pant back.

When you feel comfortable with the amount and see exactly how and where this change in crotch fork curve occurs I think ti will be easier to "see" it.

Kaaren

quote:

Please remind me how the slim fit pants draft.

1. I believe there is a straight line from the hip(??? or where) to the hem? If the leg needs to be larger all the way from hip to hem - does increasing the hem circumfrance do it?

No, that's the fitted pants (and semi-fitted and loose and baggy and many others). The slim fit lower leg is shaped by thigh, knee, and calf measurements.

quote:

2. Does the slim fit use the Floor to Waist straight or conformed measurments?

Conformed.

quote:

3. Center back dart - if I have a default CB dart of 1.5" and I can still pinch out 2", what should the entry in the box be - and how is it calculated?

Enter 3.5", the sum of the default width plus the 2" you need to add to that.

Thanks, I appreciate the prompt responses.

Marie