I'm trying to make the basic shirt with surplice top and am not sure about a couple of things. On Mia, the top with surplice has darts on both sides, but the pattern only has darts on the under-part of the shirt, not on the wrap. Which is right? Also, does the surplice overlay get sewn into the side seam, like a wrap, or is it hooked or buttoned on to hang loose? And finally, since the surplice end is not as long as the side seam (at least on mine) where does it attach to the side? When I tried it, sewing it into the side seam and starting from the bottom, the surplice came up to just under the bust, which was an interesting effect but not one I'm sure I want to wear in public. On Mia it seems to hit somewhere in the middle of the bust, and I'm not sure about that one, either. Help!

Q: On Mia, the top with surplice has darts on both sides, but the pattern only has darts on the under-part of the shirt, not on the wrap. Which is right?

A: The pattern is right Mia art is close but not always an accurate depiction of the pattern.

Q: Also, does the surplice overlay get sewn into the side seam, like a wrap, or is it hooked or buttoned on to hang loose?

A: That depends on what you want! This pattern may be constructed with attached ties that slip through button hole type openings in the side seam to be tied inside the garment or outside in back or long ties that wrap around back and tie in front. Or layered in the side seams themselves.


Q:And finally, since the surplice end is not as long as the side seam (at least on mine) where does it attach to the side?

A: lets go back a little bit to the pattern on screen with grid lines ON. Find the center guide line in orange. Count grid from center to side with the darts, now count the grid from center to end of the wrap. They should be identical at default. Which means the wrap will reach the opposite side seam.


Q: When I tried it, sewing it into the side seam and starting from the bottom, the surplice came up to just under the bust, which was an interesting effect but not one I'm sure I want to wear in public. On Mia it seems to hit somewhere in the middle of the bust, and I'm not sure about that one, either. Help!

A: My sugegstion on assymetric garments is to print both sides of the pattern right and left in 1/4 scale and overlap them so you see the "whole" in 3D. You can then see where the center fronts "cross". You may adjust the neck depth on the surplice up or down to form the cross higher or lower.

You may also adjust the number and type of darts.

Wraps versus surplice also allow you to adjust the 'wrap extension' and 'wrap depth'. Play with large numbers so you can see how they function, then make more accurate finer changes till you close in on your design concept.

I got addicted to this style line and have 4 brand new tops 3 long sleeved and one short top for summer- each slightly different, I have in all cases though attached my wrap inside the side seam instead of usign ties or buttons.

The garment left overlapps the right. With very slight changes to neck depth Ive fixed my cross over point at center to approx 3.00 - 3.5 inches above bust level depending on if its the black sparkly dressier version or the pale blue interlock day time and higher version.

This is a complex pattern with complex but easy to use tools. The key is knowing where you start and where YOU want to go with it.

If you make or have a mini mannequin made up from your sloper patterns you can try on the 1/4 scales and get a very accurate view of the garment on 'you'.


Kaaren