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I made the sloper using the sloper pattern in DressShop 7.01. In general it is ok with the exception of the following;

I know I need to reduce the crotch front and add to the crotch back as it is a tad low in the back and a tad high in the front. This I did on the constructed sloper taking up a 3/4" seam horizontally across the front and realized I could add it to the back.

I took in the back waist with a vertical 1" seam/tuck at the center back on the waistband only.

I took in an extra 1 1/2" seam in the hip and thigh area tapering back to the 5/8" seam around the knee. Note, this adjustment occures 4 1/2 " below the mark of the waist.

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For #2 taking in the back waist- increase the center back waist dart found in any pant pattern but not the sloper pattern.

So I would increase the dart width by 1/4" to take in 1"?

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The adjustment that is obvious on the muslin is to take off from the top center front and add to the top of the center back. So this is the floor to waist not the crotch length, correct?

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Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:

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The adjustment that is obvious on the muslin is to take off from the top center front and add to the top of the center back. So this is the floor to waist not the crotch length, correct?

Yes! Now please note a TINY adjustment to keep the crotch lengths balanced MAY also be needed - first do floor to waist conformed and look at the front and back pieces together to see the crotch U - IF the crotch extension begins to J hook or point downards in a kind of almond shape () at the bottom then you need to balance the crotch length-

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would I be able to see this on a 1/4 scale? Right now the crotch looks ok, longer shelf on the back, shorter in the front.

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Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:
Fix the lengths first - you will be lifting the crotch in one position and droping it in another- I strongly suggest you go step by step rather than make this adjustment now as it may wind up too tight.

Kaaren

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ok, assuming that I have adjusted the lengths, and it is still too wide, ballooning around the lower hips and thighs, should I just take it in on the thight measurement? This makes the sloper fit closely when I pin it in otherwise it is really, really full around the thighs.----Denise


I wish you were doing this in MPD- its a lot easier. We changed the drafting code quite a lot for arm holes and crotches in MPD. YOU CAN get where you want to go with DS but its not exactly "intuitive".

In DS you now need to adjust your body depth- whicxh creates the extensions between the legs. DS does not USE the thigh measurement for the sloper or the dress fit pants.ONLY for the slim fit pant and if the body depth is too long it will still blouse over the thighs. The body depth is frequently measured too loosely so step one, knock an ~ inch off what you think you need since you all ready know its too wide and try it- you need to balance the front and back extension lengths- and hee's a brand new theory that might work well for you- but its experimental the rosebud theory works pretty well.

This one is simpler
take 10% of hip front as front extension
subtract that amount from total body depth and the remainder is back extension.

IE: if body depth measures 7 and 10% or 11% of hip front(22 x 10%) is 2.2 then the back would be 7-2.2 or 4.8 that should be ball park.

IF the front thigh pulls with that short as extension increase it by 1/2 inch tests.

Kaaren