Can someone help me with this please?

After adjustments, my bodice sloper fitted reasonably well so I printed out a pattern for a casual shirt with a bateau neck.

I've been sewing it and when I tried it on the shoulder seams are set too far back by about 1/2 an inch. On the sloper they were in the correct place.

I thought that as my sloper had a good shoulder seam position any other garments I made would also be good.

Can anyone tell me if this is normal and what I should look out for at the pattern stage to see if this is going to be a problem on a pattern so I can adjust it or is it better to adjust the sloper? I don't really want to do this because the shoulder seams were good.

Thansk for your patience with this newbie.

Teresa

The batteau is a very wide open neck leavign little "shoulder" as the ridge pole of theb hosue to support the gament.

Wide necks may need to be modified to a less wide neck especially on folks with rather narrow upper shoulders.(neck width see number and lower by say an inch)

If all you have left is an inch or so of shoulder that leaves open the opportunity to gape and or "float around".

Would it be too far back if the neck was more closed.hard to say.but worth checking.

Kaaren

quote:

The batteau is a very wide open neck leavign little "shoulder" as the ridge pole of theb hosue to support the gament.

Wide necks may need to be modified to a less wide neck especially on folks with rather narrow upper shoulders.(neck width see number and lower by say an inch)

If all you have left is an inch or so of shoulder that leaves open the opportunity to gape and or "float around".

This reminded me that I've been meaning to ask -- are the neckline widths somewhat standard or are they percentages of each person's across shoulder measurement? Why wouldn't the necklines be proportional to the measurement set -- and therefore usable at default? Or are certain necklines only usable for larger sizes?

The neck editor would be easier to use if the current neckline width and depth were showing in the boxes. I know that we can enter a number and fiddle back and forth but it would help if we knew exactly where we are starting.

They are proportional widths. Try it out with standard sizes: a RTW 2 with Across Shoulder Front of 13.87 gets a boat neck width of 11.8 leaving a narrow +- 1.5" shoulder seam; while a RTW 40 with Across Shoulder Front of 20.12 gets a boat neck width of 16.49 and a shoulder of +- 2.5"

I think what Kaaren means is that on the narrower shoulders the proportion becomes a little too impractical for real life wearing, so alter it a smidgen.

Gayle wrote:

quote:

The neck editor would be easier to use if the current neckline width and depth were showing in the boxes. I know that we can enter a number and fiddle back and forth but it would help if we knew exactly where we are starting.

I would like to see this also. Although I can see the depth if I have reference lines and amounts turned on then view just the front or back I don't remember seeing width until I have made a change. Having the numbers there would be very nice.

It is very easy to see what the current neckline is. Say you've chosen a scoop neckline. When you go into the neck tool where it says choose front neck depth, click on scoop. The numbers will come up showing you how deep the scoop neckline is. Then you can change it depending on your preferences.

quote:

It is very easy to see what the current neckline is. Say you've chosen a scoop neckline. When you go into the neck tool where it says choose front neck depth, click on scoop. The numbers will come up showing you how deep the scoop neckline is. Then you can change it depending on your preferences.

When I choose a neckline, say scoop(front and back), from Mia then go to the neck tool the numbers are blank in the tower but I can see numbers on the draft if I have reference lines/amounts turned on and view one piece at a time. When I choose, say scoop(front and back), and re-draft to put the numbers in the tower so that I am looking at all the numbers(front, back, width) at the same time, I get numbers that are different than the original draft and it changes the neckline even though I have requested the same neckline as I chose in Mia. I understand that there can be a rounding difference and my front scoop only went from 7.63 to 7.79. But, my back went from 5.67 to 7.79. I try to remember to watch for such discrepancies, but if they were all in one place to begin with it would be easier to see.

Thanks,
Elsa

Hi Kaaren,

Thanks for your reply and yes I have narrow shoulders so the design wasn't a good one for me without altering the neckline.

I've tried to see if it's solely that and I don't think it is, the shoulder seem definitely seems too far back. I think I'm going to change my measurements and print out another pattern to compare.

What I wanted to know is there anything in the new update that would have caused the shoulder seams to be different?

Thanks, Teresa

Necklines are a proportion of each persons measurement set.

Wide necklines are just that.set by whomever originally designed them.(percentage of shoulder width)

This update has a new definition for the wide veeneckline .

It's not quite as wide as it was in the past making it more useable.

Whats one persons treasure is another poison.there has to be a start or defdult position.Most of the wide necks have been around a long long time.

if its clear to YOU by looking at remaining "shoulder" the Neck is too wide for YOU enter a smaller number in neck width till you have sufficieint shoulder for YOUR preference.

Once again its knowing were you are starting and knowing where you want to go....to make the journey to your perfect design choices.

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by teresa pople:
Hi Kaaren,

Thanks for your reply and yes I have narrow shoulders so the design wasn't a good one for me without altering the neckline.

I've tried to see if it's solely that and I don't think it is, the shoulder seem definitely seems too far back. I think I'm going to change my measurements and print out another pattern to compare.

What I wanted to know is there anything in the new update that would have caused the shoulder seams to be different?

Thanks, Teresa

Not that I know of, the length and shoudler point position are still determined by full length, slope on the evrtical and across shoulder and shoudler length on the horizontal.

quote:

ce again its knowing were you are starting and knowing where you want to go....to make the journey to your perfect design choices.

that's one of the problems -- we don't know exactly where we are starting

when we go to the neck editor the boxes are blank and we can put in an arbitrary number to see if it gets wider or narrower but then have to go back to design to choose that neckline again

it's like playing Hi-Low on the the Price is Right

quote:

Originally posted by InspiredSewing:
They are proportional widths. Try it out with standard sizes: a RTW 2 with Across Shoulder Front of 13.87 gets a boat neck width of 11.8 leaving a narrow +- 1.5" shoulder seam; while a RTW 40 with Across Shoulder Front of 20.12 gets a boat neck width of 16.49 and a shoulder of +- 2.5"

I think what Kaaren means is that on the narrower shoulders the proportion becomes a little too impractical for real life wearing, so alter it a smidgen.

This is interesting because I always thought it was just a default number, no matter what the size. That was the only explanation I could get for why my necks drafted so wide and so low.

I don't mind changing my defaults, that is what the neck tool is for
But I agree with Gayle, if we had the correct numbers show up in the neck tool, then at least I would have a starting point.
Linda Flint

The only way to see where you are starting is to sit and measure a pattern and KNOW where you want to go.

Thats why using 1/4 scales-- reference lines and amounts and grids is sooooooo important!

BEFORE printing out a full scale pattern.

If you have not used a design element before LOOK at it, measure it, decide about it.

If I choose a super wide neck and its shows the neck is 5 boxes wide on the neck.thats 10 inches.if my across shoulder is less than 14 that gives me only a 2 inch strap ( which I personally can use)
Change neck width if you know your bra straps are 2.5 inches wide each then you need at least 2.5 or even 2.75 inches of shoulder left.

We dont want to limit your creativity..maybe you are not planning on wearing a bra with this "garment" maybe you will be using it for a lingerie item, or for a "clubbing" outfit.we don't know who you are and what your style is..or where you wish to wear this whatever garment.

Simply put there must be a start point or nothing drafts.
Try the wide neck at default in a piece of muslin just printed low enough to do the neckline
pop it on..like it -use it / hate it -change it.

or stand in front of a mirror with a tape measure and determine your best neck widths for a variety of neck types.
Write em down and keep it near the puter...

measure tops youalready own or try on in stores..

anyway you can to get to know what you DO like.

assess if that is the width that's starting point.if not adjust neck width.

Kaaren



Kaaren

Thanks Kaaren,

I've found out how to adjust the neck and have been playing with it. Wow, the choice is amazing.

Thanks, Teresa

I agree that the current numbers being in the box would simplify the adjustments. I hate having to put on the grid and count to know where I'm starting from. I brought this up many moons ago and can't remember what the rationaliztion was but maybe it could be done now.