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Indentations on side seam
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quote:
Are the numbers the same?
Do you mean does the shoulder drop + armhole depth + distance from bottom of armhole depth to the waist (side seam) equal the same amount as the front full length measurement + difference caused by a tilted waist?
Is this what you are trying to show?
What will you do in your formula to provide for the amount of side dart that we will be sewing out when we sew up the dart as there is a part of the dart (about 3/4" in my case) that is in the line of the shoulder point to waist.
The paper pattern might show that the numbers are the same, but when you sew the garment it will be different.
Also, what about the ease that is placed in the armhole. I find that my armhole depth is 4.87", but the pattern shows 6".
With your formula, are we to use our measurements only, or the paper pattern that we print out?



Ease is not relevant to this discussion, nor is the width of the side bust dart. What I was suggesting was that the raw measurement numbers should add up to the same amounts for the side waist position. These numbers are simply the distance in inches from the pattern's highest point (at the top of the shoulder next to the neck) to the side waist. That distance is constant. If you add a side bust dart to your pattern, then that position is moved down by that amount. That is, the side seam will be drafted with the waist indent lower on the flat pattern by the width of the side bust dart so that it is raised back to its target location when you sew the side bust dart closed in the finished garment.

And, any ease that is added to the armhole is automatically subtracted from Side Length. The program does that automatically so side waist is unchanged, regardless of armhole ease used.


DressShopBob
(Bob Clardy)
 
Posts: 718 | Registered: 18 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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