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The role of the side length

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16 April 2013, 06:26 AM
Sandi
The role of the side length
What is the role of the "side length? I noticed some values may change the horizontal bust dart. What does this measurement's role?
Thanks,
Sandi A.
16 April 2013, 09:23 AM
Dress Shop
quote:
What is the role of the "side length? I noticed some values may change the horizontal bust dart. What does this measurement's role?


The quick answer is that it controls side bust dart width, along with the Front Bust and High Bust measurements.

The longer answer is that a line is drafted from the armhole location (at High Bust width), through a point at bust level and Front Bust width, and extending an amount equal to the Side Length measurement. That line sticks outwards at an extreme angle to the main pattern. The program then opens a side bust dart. As the dart opens wider, the line is bent back towards the body. When the tip of this line reaches Front Waist width, the side bust dart is big enough and that amount is used for bust darting thereafter.

Bottom line is that the side bust dart is bigger if there is greater difference between High Bust and Bust Front. AND, that dart is bigger the larger Side Length is. To tinker with side bust dart size, you can change:

1. High Bust. But, that will also effect the fit at the bottom of the armhole.

2. Bust Front. But, that will effect the fit across the bust.

3. Side Length. That only effects the size of the bust dart itself.


Board Administrator, Dress Shop App
16 April 2013, 12:46 PM
Sandi
Thank you! I appreciate the detailed info.
Sandi A.