Side seam
It's been a while but I remember now quitting the program because I can't figure out the sleeve. When I experiment with different side seam measurements, they don't change the front, back or sleeve pattern. Why not?
Posts: 12 | Registered: 19 May 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Reading through some of your previous posts it seems to me like you are fighting the software too much. You mention sideseam and armhole - measurments which can cause confusion. If you were talking about the armhole depths looking out - You do realize that most people have different front and back AHD - there is muscle to go over on the back and hollow on the front at around high bust measurement (Kaaren's standard meas made 1" difference". I had my measurements taken by a friend who was a professional seamstress - we used a printout of how to take measurements from an earlier DS version, which I think has still carried over but harder to find. ( Load Measurments, Complete, Clear/New - Help on Measurements is in pink beside "complete measurement chart"). They were quite good for a start. I sent my measurements list off through the Problem report one time about a year before Kaaren passed - even Kaaren fudged some to make the patterns look better (the heights etc from floor), but these measurements are not going to make pants that fit - they are going to make pants that sit up far too high at CF becasue the software at that point had never been sorted for people who truly have tilted waists). There were many problems that Bob had to code to fix because family measurements sent the program troppo. I get great blouses and pants in general - dresses are problematic because of my total body imbalances - but anything I make with dress shop is going to fit - I cannot say that about purchased patterns.

If you think the measurements you have are completely off, can you use some and the Wizard to get them more close??? Ignore the armholes for the moment - do the sideseams match when you remove the front dart and put them together (early versions of DS test patterns used to be a bit out, but the finished fit was still superior to purchased patterns for me) Unless your measurements are totally the same. If you want more adjustment instead of choosing fitting bodice try File, Load Pattern, Blouse, Fitted, Bodice. You can then adjust the Armhole Depth, Sleeve Cap and bicep ease etc. (I always thought Kaarens bases had too much cap ease). The Shoulder width & depth and across F and B do have some input into the sleeve & armhole draft. There used to be lots of extra notes about how stuff went together, and how it worked when we were on the original discussion group, and also when Kaaren had a video group going.

If I could I would insert a screen capture of my Test fitted bodice - the measurements draft whacky, but once put together there is very little error in the fit, and on real garments some of the strangeness is smoothed out. Sometimes we had to adjust the shoulders, side seam and across back/front - but these measurements were only done from the test fit bodice. Sometimes we needed to do a little slashing, even a bit of fudging, but only in tiny increments. The thing is the test bodice is just that - a template for checking measurements. All the reference lines should be drawn onto the garment, and it should ideally have clipped neckline S/A, and if possible zip closed. Also the same undergarments should be worn - unless you have 6 of the exact same fit and dimension.....

The only person from our Original dress Shop User Group who never got any use out of DS was the one who refused to even try making a test fit garment - she was too caught up by old fashioned drafting rules and balance lines.

Helen M
Sth Australia
DS9 Pro
Ultimate Outerwear,
Ultimate Pants.
Add Ons 1 - 14,
Pattern Sets 1044,1046, 1049,1050. & other.
Autumn 2009
Ultimate Lingerie & Loungewear '23

Windows 11 x64 Pro
Canon IX6860
Posts: 77 | Location: Australia | Registered: 09 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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