I had my bodice sloper close on 5.17c.93. Then along came version 6 and the sloper with the same measurements file was totally different.

After Tina was so nice and helped me perfect my sloper on 6.092 with Patch 5, I'd just had time to make a test Fitted Shirt in both a woven & knit.

Now after loading the 6.10 update on my laptop, I get to start in on my bodice sloper again tomorrow morning because the sloper back at the armhole level and sleeve cap height are once again significantly different in the new 6.10 versus 6.092 Patch 5. (Thank goodness it was mentioned in the change history or I might not have printed the 1/4 scales and checked it.)

I guess I'll be making a career of bodice slopers so I don't need to worry about my earlier questions on the pants sloper.

Hopefully, things will look better to me in the morning!

Vicki

I have the opposite problem from the example mentioned in the Change History File with my Across Back. The Across Back is actually smaller in 6.10 which is causing a wider, more scooped Back Armhole. The biggest difference is right around the Back Armhole notches.

Is this caused by item #2 in the Change History file because before it wouldn't allow the armhole to be that wide/deep? Should I just increase my Across Back so that the Armhole matches the Sloper in 6.092 patch 5 or was there a change in the drafting of the Back that I should test out by making another Sloper?

Vicki

Vicki,
Do you have a full sized print out of your good sloper as well as the 1/4 scale?

You are on the right track with your suggestion. Work out from the difference between the two 1/4 scales (or full size if you've got them) how much you need to change your across back.

Change it until the two slopers are the same.

You should be right to go then.

quote:

Originally posted by Vicki:
I have the opposite problem from the example mentioned in the Change History File with my Across Back. The Across Back is actually smaller in 6.10 which is causing a wider, more scooped Back Armhole. The biggest difference is right around the Back Armhole notches.

Vicki

Vicki,
Can you get someone to actually measure your across back area for you? For me this is coincidental that they did this. I was in my measurement chart about two weeks ago and my across back number just stuck out as rather large. It was 3" larger than my across shoulders and I knew that if didn't seem right for my shape. I had DH recheck it and I was off by about 2". I had changed it in the computer and noticed that nothing changed. Now I know they had a flag there. Without the flag my old number does give me a terrible back armhole and with the new number it looks just about like the old.

So you could increase the number until it comes out the same as the older version, but maybe you might want to double check your back too.
HTH,
Linda Flint

quote:

Originally posted by Vicki:
Should I just increase my Across Back so that the Armhole matches the Sloper in 6.092 patch 5 ...

Thanks Janet & Linda. I decided in the middle of the night that adding to my Across Back was probably the right solution. I have 6.10 on my laptop and 6.092 patch 5 on my desktop so I will be able to keep printing slopers until I get the two to match.

I'd just finished printing my 2nd Pants Sloper pattern late last evening when I decided to check the Bodice Sloper on 6.10. Probably a mistake after a long, hard day. I should have known to wait until morning when I could deal with things better.

Vicki

Janet, you're right about 'how to' fix it, but the essential issue is....every new update changes the sloper. That should not be! This is a problem, as is the pant/skirt waist dart drafting differently with no seam allowance and with 5/8" (1.5cm)s.a. Bob is so busy now with the current update and the new list. But he does need to address both of these issues in the future.

quote:

Originally posted by Alice McGlothin:
Janet, you're right about 'how to' fix it, but the essential issue is....every new update changes the sloper. That should not be! This is a problem, as is the pant/skirt waist dart drafting differently with no seam allowance and with 5/8" (1.5cm)s.a. Bob is so busy now with the current update and the new list. But he does need to address both of these issues in the future.

I am respectfully disagreeing with this. This is the first time that an update has affected my sloper (I am just one person though). And it was a good change.

My back across chest number was wrong, it was too wide. I changed mine before the update becuse intiutively I had an instinct that I had a too large number, but did not have time to test my new number. Now that the update is out and I plug in both my old number and new number I see that my hunch was correct.

I am glad for this change. Frankly, I get to tweak that back across chest number to get just a bit more ease across there if I want it.
They must have taken off the flag for a reason, and we should wait to see why, maybe it means more designs.
Linda Flint

yes we changed something.
If your across chest back for instance was correct to start with.you would not need a change.

if it was off to start with the flag that fixed it is gone..no fall back to an auto fix.

By improving the drafting technology we have found a way to provide the extended shoulders for things like mens wear and camp shirts.But the flag had to go.

you should be abler to correct this withotu doign another sloper.

I hope to have a pdf file available later today or early tomorrow. It was covered in class this monrign and will eb covered again at rthe 8PM eastern classthursday- tomorrow evening.

Kaaren

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:
yes we changed something.
If your across chest back for instance was correct to start with.you would not need a change.


As promised I wrote a short article on the what and Why of the change to the drafting code of the across back measurement, and how it effects your arm hole.

I have detailed how to see the change, and resolve it without making a new sloper!

The article is a PDF adobe format and is cross posted at both the Club site (*membership required.just being a DS owner gets you approved.) in the talk forum and the class room site no membership needed.

Kaaren

Is the front affected?

Not usually.the majority fo problems are with across chest back.if the frotn is over long it will also show but not as obviously.
Kaaren

I need to add that those with wide across chests with narrow shoulders were havign a problem getting the across chest wide enough..thats how this all started as a fix for them.

those ladies should nwo be able to get the balance they need.

<Cross post>
Could you please clarify.
Your PDF document talks about Across Chest but the drawings show the Across Back measurement. They are not the same thing or interchangeable.
The Across Chest is the upper chest measurement on the front measured between armholes. The Across Back is the upper back measurement from one mid back armhole across the shoulder blades to mid armhole. Is this issue applicable on both Across Chest and Across Back?

As a side note, something I noticed yesterday amid the princess discussions, is that the Armhole Princess blouse and dress is drafting the Across Chest (on the front) much smaller than the chart measurement, let alone the sloper line. View it with the sloper on. I see it happening on size RTW 12 and my own charts. This is in both version 6.09 and 6.10 .

If you wanted to use the option to add extra across chest and across back ease where do you add it? Do you have to make up a fake measurement chart ?
Barb

go to options, only the back ease is adjustable not front..you will find a default value of 1 inch in the box which you can alter up or down.