I'm playing around with Dress Shop Pro 9.01, and trying to recreate this jacket - http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/cl...gory&resultback=1950 . I can get an armhole princess jacket with a wing collar, but I can't move the bottom of the neck opening (where the roll line meets the front opening - aack! I need more vocabulary!) above 16.25 inches. Actually, that's default, and I can't change it at all. The picture looks like the top button is at the bustline.

I think I also need to move the corner of the collar down a bit to create that nice horizontal line, but I can't figure out if that's possible either. Any advice?

Thanks!

Rhee Eliker
DS Pro

quote:

I'm playing around with Dress Shop Pro 9.01, and trying to recreate this jacket - http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/cl...gory&resultback=1950 . I can get an armhole princess jacket with a wing collar, but I can't move the bottom of the neck opening (where the roll line meets the front opening - aack! I need more vocabulary!) above 16.25 inches. Actually, that's default, and I can't change it at all. The picture looks like the top button is at the bustline.

I think I also need to move the corner of the collar down a bit to create that nice horizontal line, but I can't figure out if that's possible either. Any advice?

I believe that all the settings you want are in the "Options - Neckline and Collar" dialog. But, they are certainly not at all intuitive. To start with, select the Wing Collar - Straight Wing. Then, set "Wing Collar Bottom Depth" to 1". Then set it to 5". It controls where the roll line hits the center seam and playing with the numbers while you watch the draft should make it clear how much you wish to use.

Then, set "Point Depth" to 12". Ackkk! The lapel point went away completely! That's because there are default amounts for the lapel point position. But, if you use EITHER of the controls to change that default position (depth and extension), you have to use BOTH of them. The "Lapel Point Extension" is still set to zero. So, set it to 5". Try 6". Increase and decrease the "Point Depth" value and see how the shape of the lapel can be adjusted to almost anything.

The amounts you want for each of those 3 numbers is a matter of trial and error or possibly I should say subjective preference. In any case, after you play with the entries for a bit, what they do should be clear. I'm pretty sure you can duplicate the collar shape of that jacket. Good luck...

Rhee, I saw your post and had to play with this idea myself as I have been trying to master this collar myself.. I also have DS Pro 9 and in the "Collar Design Tools" if you pick the "shawl or wing" then it goes to "pointed wing collar" the little white diagram to your right shows step by step settings numbered 1-4 under the diagram named "Shawl Collar Settings".

I played with it for a bit and set it at:

1. Collar Width - (4)
2. Point Extension - (6)
3. Point Depth - (6)
4. Added Depth - (-3)

I would try this in a muslin first before you cut into your fashion fabric.. **hint.. a woman at a costume shop told me she uses plain white sheets instead of muslin fabric to make the trial pattern.

Good luck.. by the way, the jacket is really beautiful..

Have a great day,
Sharon

Thanks, Sharon and Bob,

I'm just now getting back to playing with this - and I was totally mystified by Sharon's explanation, until I realized I had a collar designer tool! I was in the Options menu.

In fact, the only complaint I have so far about the new version is that there are just too many choices - I can't decide where to start...

Thanks again,

Rhee