I made an Armhole Princess Blouse ( printed from my 6.13 laptop). Before I finished the garment, I went through three muslins because of the waist indent. In the past, my shirts and jackets needed the waist indent, so I just figured the Princess would also. I began with 1.5", did another at 1", then ended up with a .5", knowing that the next Princess garment I make will not have any waist indent. To make matters even more uncomfortable, when I put in the sleeves, they were very tight in the armhole. My measurements are the ones I have used successfully for several garments dating back to the 6.0 days.
Question - is the waist indent not intended to be used with the Princess designs?
Question - why has 6.13 changed the fit of the sleeve so much?

Thanks,
Kelly

Question - why has 6.13 changed the fit of the sleeve so much?

The program hasnt changed the sleeve on princess.

When you make adjustments to your charts as you have indicated in previous posts.

you do change things you might not "think" have been changed.

IF the princess sleevebicep reads 2 inches on screen its doign what it has always done.

You need to know what is comfortable for you before deciding to print that pattern.

Take a look at the sleeve, know your chart bicep measurement and measure under the bell portion of the cap if it is right at about 2 inches its at default and doing exactly what you requested. IF you changed it while drafting that will be reflected on the pattern summary.

The arm hole princess blouse is giving a bicep ease percentage that runs around 2 inches for most adult women.

ie., (based on 12 or 12.5 its spot on 2 inches measuring 14 or 14.5 inches)

The arm hole for the pricness is in true high shoulder position, the shoulder is not extended.

If you usually prefer a more top of the arm fit you would then OPT to extend the shoulder a 1/4 or 1/2 inch.

the arm hole depth will automatically increase some. That also is adjustable using arm hole ease (depth).

We did not touch this section of the code.

I do hope you keep 1/4 scales of your patterns so you can compare them.

As well as pattern summary's showing what you may have elected last time versus this time.

I always keep a copy of the summary and 1/4 scales with the actual pattern. there are many ways to save them and store them. I use one of two methods..skirt hangars in my sewing room closet, or a muslin "design wall" which I pin the entire thing to.

Full scale patterns with a small fabric swatch, pattern summary, 1/4 scales and any notes Ive written on the actual pattern.

Fabric types do effect fit. Some more loosely woven fabrics will almost act as if it has a bit of stretch, while a tightly woven cotton or silk will "work up" closer. Howe the fabric was "grained up" will also effect fit.

I use a very different ease allowance for a top made of an interlock than i do of a tight woven.. the fabric environment is one of the many decisions thats needs to be considered when drafting the pattern.

Kaaren

Kaaren, thanks for the info. I will the armhole ease next time.

quote:

The program hasnt changed the sleeve on princess.

When you make adjustments to your charts as you have indicated in previous posts.

you do change things you might not "think" have been changed.

Hi Kaaren,

Is there a process we could go through to make sure we don't have a setting stuck when we draft a new pattern? (sorry if this has all ready been asked) If I remember right we don't want to reset defaults ..... (do we?)

When I'm trying something I SAVE AS ( or make a new copy fo my measurement set) & add "crotch test" & the date if I can squeeze it all in. Then if it doesn't work I can just discard that measurement set & it's adjustments.