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Bob, it just sounded like you were confusing the bodice with the sloper, which I know cannot be changed. I have downloaded the 6.13 on my laptop so cannot file problem reports until I can get it on this computer. Anyway, are you suggesting that the Fitted Shirt rather than the Fitted Bodice should be used as the comparing pattern when we want to make any other blouse pattern? The Fitted Shirt as well as the Fitted bodice will correctly compare the shoulder line, the neckline, the armholes, and the darts when we are choosing another shirt? If so, I will start using the Fitted Shirt. In the four or five years of having this software, I have never heard this, therefore my confusion.
 
Posts: 272 | Location: Fort Worth, Texas | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Bob, it just sounded like you were confusing the bodice with the sloper, which I know cannot be changed. I have downloaded the 6.13 on my laptop so cannot file problem reports until I can get it on this computer. Anyway, are you suggesting that the Fitted Shirt rather than the Fitted Bodice should be used as the comparing pattern when we want to make any other blouse pattern? The Fitted Shirt as well as the Fitted bodice will correctly compare the shoulder line, the neckline, the armholes, and the darts when we are choosing another shirt? If so, I will start using the Fitted Shirt. In the four or five years of having this software, I have never heard this, therefore my confusion.



My suggestion should be taken with a large grain of salt, here. I know well how the drafting engine functions and what we can and cannot make the pattern lines do. But, my experience with confirming a measurement set and adjusting a sloper fit is all remote and theoretical. Someone that has done that a lot should comment before you give this suggestion any serious consideration.

But, my observation was based on the recent issues with the side seam shaping and that we used a short sheath pattern for the testing there. A micro-mini sheath with zero ease can reveal the fit potential of all upper body patterns in the waist to hip area. A bodice may not do that as well.

The Fitted Shirt may actually be too short to be ideal. It ends at the hip line and a pattern that is a bit longer would show the full and final shaping of the side seam better than anything that ends higher. All fitted dresses have curves to just beyond the hip line, then drop straight. My ideal, theoretical fit adjust pattern would extend to the point where the side seam goes straight.

But, the Dress Shop bodice pattern was specifically designed to reveal bust measurement issues. It may do that better than other fitted tops. I do not know. And, I have no idea whether all fitted tops would be equally good at revealing shoulder and armhole fit. I believe they would, but I think an educator that has actually test fitted these patterns on many bodies and worked through the fit problems would be a better judge.

However, with all those caveats, I personally think that a short sheath would make a better measurement confirmation pattern for the measurements between under bust and hip. Would it work as well for the rest? Others should comment on that...


DressShopBob
(Bob Clardy)
 
Posts: 718 | Registered: 18 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks, I appreciate that. I have recently heard talk about the "torso sloper", which sounds like a winner to me. Using the micro-mini sheath, I am going to make one. Thanks again, Kelly
 
Posts: 272 | Location: Fort Worth, Texas | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<Marilyn in Brisbane>
posted
I'm probably wrong, but I thought we originally had a bodice on which we could make changes but was also used as a sloper. It was decided we should NOT be able to alter the sloper so the sloper was set aside and listed separately in the menu. We then had a sloper that could not be altered for basic fit testing, and also a bodice that was a basic garment that could be altered.

Over time they have added tools and options that increased the versatility of basic garments and made it easier to design without resorting to paper and pencil. This was good. Now, they seem to be limiting their use. Basic silhouettes that had lots of options are now being locked up as unchangeable patterns.

We want good dependable basic patterns that fit and with which we can use all the tools and options, with everything working, so we can design and play. Newbies also want patterns that they can just print and sew. We need labels to indicate which are the old basic patterns and silhouettes we can play with and which are new fixed patterns (or old silhouettes that are now locked) and can't be altered.

In other words - we want it all -fit, versatility, reliablity, dependablility.
 
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