But you see that is just my point. I'm not attached to numbers. I'd be happy to put in Yankee Doodle Dandy if I could get a pattern I could use. If you can't use the numbers that you have been measured for what in heaven sake do you put in that little box.
I sent a help note (problem report) from my computer with the problem and the pattern on the screen. My reply was did you get an answer from the board?

Elaine, I'm doing this with trepidation, because I'm the last person that understands fitting challenges - I've been sorting through this for a long time.

But I have felt the frustration that is evident in your post, so I hope you don't mind this advice. It's possible that the measurements you are changing are not having any affect on the part of the bodice that you want to change.

If your shoulder point on your sloper does not seem perfect, change your across shoulder front and across shoulder back each just a little bit - 1/2" would be plenty. But I don't think that's your issue, I think you said your shoulder points are correct.

So - if the sleeve extrudes into your bodice, in either front or back, then reduce your across chest front, or back, or both, just a little bit. 1/2" is plenty, again. Maybe Kaaren will tell you 1/2" is too much - you should have some idea how far it is intruding. I bet this time you'll see a difference in the before and after fitting garment. Then make another sloper. Take a photo, front and back. Have someone else take it, tell them you are not looking for a pic of the whole thing, just the arm area (you'll get a pic of the whole thing, if your picture taker is anything like my husband, but at least it will be close to the armhole). Look at the photo - do the sleeves still seem to be going into the bodice? Reduce it again, this time only 1/8" inch.

I know, slopers seem so non productive. But you cut off the neck seam allowance and the hems, and overlap the front closure (don't bother with buttons, facings etc), and use a really big stitch, and after so much practice, I crank out a sloper in about 15 minutes...which is a really sad commentary on how long this is taking me (but I'm getting closer, that's why I don't want you to give up, because I know there's hope).

Before you do anything, though, give yourself something good - even just a cup of tea. You deserve it.

Why not post a pic of your bodice sloper.It can be at the club page, whereby Kaaren tells you what needs fixed.
I have a shoulder length of 12cm.my across shoulder front is 34.5cm therefore 12x2=24,and 24 from 34.5= 10.5 neck width.It took me a while to get that.I have narrow shoulders,but be careful changing things,as they get rather awry sometimes,leads to more frustrations too.Make a bodice take a pic and then post it!good luck. Just another snowflake too GGGG

Actually, Elaine, if your sleeves curve out into the bodice you need to INCREASE your across chest measurement (do it little by little, say 1/2 inch to see if it helps). You didn't actually say in what way your sleeves are horrible, so we're sort of grasping at straws - that too-narrow across chest was wrong with mine, but it might not be what's wrong with yours. Can you be more specific?

Good luck

Kathy Warner

quote:

So - if the sleeve extrudes into your bodice, in either front or back, then reduce your across chest front, or back, or both, just a little bit. 1/2" is plenty, again. Maybe Kaaren will tell you 1/2" is too much - you should have some idea how far it is intruding

I have done a very crude graphic(gif. attached) showing how the across chest/arm hole sleeve cap relate.

The printed pattern is a balanced one, the green line shows an extended across chest which narrows the cap, the orange line shows a too short across chest/too wide cap.

Kaaren

across_chest_arm_hole.gif (8 Kb, 79 downloads) across chest

I received a digital camera for Christmas. Once I get pictures where and to whom can I send them for suggested corrections? It appears that the bodice goes out to far into the sleeve. Although the sleeve isn't to big on the arm there are folds in it. It is a fitted shirt and is really to tight to wear comfortably but I thought that just might be the way a fitted shirt is to fit. I thought I would have to use casual to get a comfortable fit. Is that a correct perception or can fitted blouses be wore comfortably if the measurements are correct?

Oh gosh, I'm sorry, I have my "protruding into's" mixed up, and gave bad advice, which is why I should just keep out of this. Sorry again.

Fitted blouses are to be comfortable when worn IF the dimensions fit your body.
Now maybe you don't like a close feel- so what defines "comfort for one" defines too tight for another.

You should be able to move your arms comfortably and have no major puckers/wrinkles when standign still you should have straight flowing side seams and not be choked or have gaping necklines.

The body in motion will form some wrinkles- take a look at any designer runway video- the body moves one way the garment is still in motion from the last step....

Where do I send the pictures?

Elaine, Kaaren't email addy is at the end of her posts: patterns4u@aol.com

If you want to post pics that the rest of us can see and offer comments on, you do that at the quiltropolis site - but I have a tough time getting there myself, just to look, and have not tried to post pics - so am not even going to try to explain that one!

I'm sure others can point you in that direction, though.

email photos to patrns4u@aol.com
or post to the club site- slopers album (membership required- limited to DS and MPD owners.)
club

photos should be cropped jpegs or gifs not bitmaps ( bmp) please.

Kaaren

Posted 10 January 2007 05:59 PM
Any blouse Any blouse or shirt/dress even jacket can be forced to use the true shoulder point- open the fit box click advanced- if there is a numeric entry in the shoulder entry box other than 0 set it to 0 or whatever your prime desired number is. The slight drop to the shoulder is "customary" for a lot of designs- but you get the option to have what you want.
Kaaren

Karen I found that option in MPD but not in DS. Is that available in DS? If so I proublby wouldn't have to change my measurements. I changed my measurements in DS and it looks like it is getting where I need to be. I have the pattern printed out but don't have it cut yet. I then transferred those measurements to MPD and put the sholder point on point which made it go to far in with the adjusted measurements. So I had to revert to my old chart of measurements. It would be really helpful to have that adjustment in DS. To adjust the sholder point in dress shop I had to move the across sholder in 1 inch and accross chest in 1 inch. In MPD I just had to set the sholder point. I don't know if they are perfect yet but I'll let you know. Hopefully I will sew them today.

quote:

I found that option in MPD but not in DS. Is that available in DS?

Draft your garment, in the vertical tool bar, click on options - shoulder extension is in this menu.
Kaaren

Thanks, I found it. But in DS it was already on 0 so that won't be the answer.
Thanks
Elaine