Hi ,
I have made a bodice sloper (third) and it seems to be too short in front. The back seems to be ok. What measurements do I need to change to bring the centre front down to my waist?
Thanks
Judy

quote:

Originally posted by JuChal:
I have made a bodice sloper (third) and it seems to be too short in front. What measurements do I need to change to bring the centre front down to my waist?

Try the Full Length Front (neck/shoulder to waist) measurement.

I hope nobody minds me asking an obvious question - but I don't seem to get a reply from tech support. My sloper seems to be coming along ok, but when I make a test garment the upper chest protrudes into the arm area by a little more than 1/2". I want to know what other adjustments will be affected if I just decrease that area. I just don't want to start screwing around with measurements that seem to fit - frankly, I'm tired of slopers and test garments and want to make some clothes!

This text appears when you click on the words “Across Chest” in your measurement chart, and on page 36 in the DS User Manual: “Across Chest - measure across the upper chest, from armhole to armhole, halfway between top of shoulder and underarm. You are setting a point in the armhole curve which defines the shape of the curve halfway from the top of the arm to under the arm. On most people, this measurement is just slightly smaller (by 1/2" to 1") from the Across Shoulder measurement.”

This is on page 45 of the DS User Manual: “Across Chest
If the across chest measurement is taken in too far in on the body, it will create a sleeve cap that extends into the body. You will find the sleeve pulling and it will be difficult to raise your arms. The line that you measure from and to is straight down from the outside shoulder tip to the crease formed where your arm meets your body. Do not curve this line; the program will create the proper sleeve and armhole.”

In the DS Manual under Test Garments beginning on page 47, the measurement descriptions describe what other measurements might be affected when making changes. For example, on page 51 here is a paragraph that describes better the answer to the first question you asked in this thread:

“If any adjustments are necessary to the bodice length to raise or lower the waist, several measurements which touch the waist will be affected.... If, for instance, the bodice only needs to be raised or lowered in the front and not the sides or back, then only those measurements taken to or from the front waist will be affected. That would be the front full length, front shoulder slope, and center front measurement.”

The fitting process is described step by step in the manual. There's lots of good information in the manual.

Hi ,
I have made a bodice sloper (third) and it seems to be too short in front. The back seems to be ok. What measurements do I need to change to bring the centre front down to my waist?
Thanks
Judy
The full lengt front which is from jewel neck/shoulder intsersection to the natural waist.
Kaaren

My sloper seems to be coming along ok, but when I make a test garment the upper chest protrudes into the arm area by a little more than 1/2". I want to know what other adjustments will be affected if I just decrease that area. I just don't want to start screwing around with measurements that seem to fit - frankly, I'm tired of slopers and test garments and want to make some clothes!


IF ther area extending INTO the arm hole is above the notches adjust the across chest front ( if tis just front) or across back if its just back.

The area from below the notches dowen are controlled by high bust on front and bust back on back.

these two sets of numbers should balance.

Changign one doesnt necessarily change the other and both may need adjustment; or, only 1.

On the sloper draw the "correct armhole with a marker.

remeasure both the across chest and the high bust to the correctly drawn line.

make those changes to the chart and save. Load the new chart and check the pattern against the original pattern which was incorrect.

fixed?

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Diane Day:

quote:

Originally posted by JuChal:
I have made a bodice sloper (third) and it seems to be too short in front. What measurements do I need to change to bring the centre front down to my waist?

Try the Full Length Front (neck/shoulder to waist) measurement.

Thank you Diane (Day) and Kaaren for yor suggestions. I'll try that.
Judy

quote:

Originally posted by Diane Day:
Try the Full Length Front (neck/shoulder to waist) measurement.

The FLF will indeed lengthen your front bodice as you want, but in addition you will probably also need to increase the Centre Length Front and Shoulder Slope Front measurements to keep the neck depth and shoulder angle as they are now.
There are sketches and notes of how the measurements interact on my web page at http://www3.telus.net/inspiredsewing/
Look under Dress Shop / Bodice Measurements.

QUOTE]Originally posted by InspiredSewing:

quote:

Originally posted by Diane Day:
Try the Full Length Front (neck/shoulder to waist) measurement.

The FLF will indeed lengthen your front bodice as you want, but in addition you will probably also need to increase the Centre Length Front and Shoulder Slope Front measurements to keep the neck depth and shoulder angle as they are now.
There are sketches and notes of how the measurements interact on my web page at http://www3.telus.net/inspiredsewing/
Look under Dress Shop / Bodice Measurements.[/QUOTE]


Thank you Tessa. I did notice that when I changed the full length measurement only that the slopes changed, so I will also change the measurements that you mentioned as well. Thanks again.
Judy

dont forget bust depth as well as slope.
When you change the full length you adjust the shoulder angle. This means bust epth, and possible arm hole/depth side length need to be verified. ( Arm hole depth may be correct but side length may need adjusting.)
Kaaren