I have spent two days now on just the front of my bodice sloper. I've gone through all the help manuals, etc, changed measurements...sigh. What I'm finding is this. From the bust down, perfect...from the bust up...perfect. THe problem is that the side dart is too narrow so when they come together...bottom half of bodice sticks out from the body. A deeper dart that does not take away from the side seam is what I need!! How do I do this for the sloper? I know I can correct that in other garments, but I would rather not have to try to remember which set of measurements I have to do that and which I don't...Can I get any help? THank you.

Darting is a very complex issue and since we do not allow tool use on slopers (so you can get as close as possible with your chart numbers). You will not be able to increase the dart by using any options which would defeat the purpose of verifying the chart. Darting is a complex algorithm and Ill attempt to briefly explain the balance without detailing the math which is beyond my capabilities.

The bust minus high bust affects the dart take up by indicating to the program the equivalent program CUP size. Cup size will affect both the dart take up and the dart position. Radius is also important. Bust position is a factor of bust depth and span.

Total darting is a factor of bust minus waist and indicates how much darting could be permitted for the side darts, waist darts and side seam shaping. Total darting is portioned out to three places on the torso front. The positions are the side seam dart, the 1 or 2 waist darts and the waist shaping but they are not portioned out in equal amounts. Note that fronts draft to front numbers and backs draft independently to back numbers. In your case I would strongly suggest you double check both the high bust value on your chart and your front bust value. The high bust is taken right under the arms from side seam to side seam and the bust is measured across the largest widest point of bust front over the apex, from marked side seam to side seam.

In addition there are “flags”- even if your measurements support a 4 or more inch wide dart at side seam stitch line- the program will not give it to you. The reason being anything over 3 inches will generally create a pull under the bust forcing the fabric off grain creating a sort of cowl effect for lack of a better term across the midriff angling from bust to waist. So, there is a flag –that says ‘stop’- don't do that! Limit the dart to X and X is about 3 inches.

Dress Shop doesn’t use the underbust on most garment designs and you will find you May be able to pin out larger waist dart(s) and possibly add even more waist shaping if collateral ease kicks in.

Briefly collateral ease is the smoothing process that happens after the draft request is complete but before you see the actual pattern on screen. Little extra bits of ease are added at the side seam (most typically at the waist) to front and or back so the shape of that side seam can be smooth (similar in angle, curve etc) enough according to numerical data to sew together. For instance: IF the upper portion of a waist dart* allows a 1.5 inch take up at waist level but the corresponding lower portion** allows only 3/4 of an inch. The upper portion will be limited to the smaller amount. (* bust minus waist ** Hip or abdomen minus waist). Collateral ease 'happens' even on slopers.

Finally the true side dart with the center or “finish line” of the dart pointing directly at the apex is wonderful for some body shapes. However, some women simply won’t get a lovely bust line shape unless that dart is angled to what we call the ‘elegant dart’ which is a form of a high French dart. Only the true side dart is employed by slopers.

The sloper article in the program points out what this trial garment is capable of testing:
Are the side seams straight?
Does the shoulder seam ride the shoulder correctly from neck to shoulder point?
Is the bust position correct?
Are the neck depths true to front and back basic high jewel necklines?
How does the position of the armhole, the armhole depths and across bust measurement setting the arm hole and sleeve cap feel?

While we often think of a sloper as a no ease garment – that simply isn’t true. There is ease in the arm hole, bicep and a few tiny other spots so you can breathe and move around a LITTLE. The sloper is not a preview of a formal boned bodice.

Wear and design ease when applied to actual garments may make moot some of your issues. Fine tuning is possible once you are working on a garment design piece and have use of the optional tools. Do not over stress on perfection on a sloper. This is one of those cases where close enough may be good enough at least for your first trial real garments where you do have use of the tools.

Kaaren

Thank you for your reply Karen. I'm sorry it took so long to answer, but I've been working and working to check all my measurements, etc..
And I'm still frustrated. I just did another mock up and I have a question. WHy would my side seam on the back bodice be shorther than the side seam on the front bodice? Shouldn't they be the same no matter what?

THe front bodice side seam is measuring accurate, but I think my measurement is a tad too long. But if the back is already drafting too short, will it actually help to reduce the side seam length? I had assumed that a side seam length would draft the same on both the back and the front bodice. THe difference is half the distance from the bust dart to the armhole so it is a significant difference. Thank you.

Dress Shop bodice slopers are generally off by between 1/4 and 3/8th inches. Garment side seams should always match. I use the torso sloper not the bodice which doesnt detail the fit from waist to hip at all. The bodice sloper is NOT a block for a blouse. It is unique.

Kaaren

well...since you told me that the issues might not be an issue in a regular garment, I made a mock up of a pegged dress. The excess fabric across the tummy was significant and better suited for a maternity outfit.
I don't understand what a torso sloper is. I can't find such an option on my dress shop.

and now I'm thoroughly confused. IT sounds like you are telling me that the bodice sloper is not applicable? I'm just trying to figure out what you are saying and how it applies .. it's not making sense to me at this moment.
SPeak Veeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrry sssssssslllllllllllowly to me and maybe I'll get it.

A garment has several types of ease- design ease, wear ease and finally in addition something we call collateral ease. Wear and design ease arel bundled in thr "ease value" you see on screen and in the fit tool box. BUT the collateral ease is added by the program as the front drafts to front numbers, and the back drafts to back numbers - two very different side seam shapes. The side seam is then adjusted by adding bits of extra ease ( most noticeable at wiast and midriff)till these lines meet a math. acceptable set of curves.

There are also multiple fit levels available for all garment starting with the most fitted levels on this dress called No design ease which requires stretch or a really good foundation for most of us,standard fit, casual fit and comfort fit.

If you look at the numbers on the pattern with reference lines and amounts on you will view the pattern and see how much ease was "called for" at bust ,waist etc for total ease per front and per back.

There are 2 reference lines visible and if you look closely the shorter one is the measurement of the actual waist on your garment, the longer darker line is the chart Plus ease called for line and any space beyond that line to the side seam is basically collateral ease. What the program is asked to repeayedly redraft so the front and back sew together on similiar curves and angles.

The program does not use a midriff number in stepping down the width of the side seam from bust to waist.

The percent of your body chart that is applied as ease or the amount called for may be excessive to your personal concept of fit.

These default percentages were arrived at by talking to,fitting and testing many hundreds of women ranging from size 0/2/4 to size 7XXX and a "medium" was selected to start from. Please feel free to reduce the ease using the fit ease tool to meet your personal fit level.

Or start at no ease and add what you believe is necessary at the various adjustable torso points to attain the fit you would like.

Kaaren

Rats lost the entire post and must start over. Just saw your second post.

Please send me your email address and I would be happy to provide you with a Free torso sloper pattern. ( patrns4u@aol.com)

The bodice is a waist length garment and is coded as such. This pattern has been around for a dozen years.

The majority of garments draft longer than the waist to abd or hip length for blouses and jackets, down to even floor lengths for dresses.

The torso pattern accommodates all lengths but is actually a minimal ease, mini dress with a back opening, jewel neck so you can check the fit along the entire torso.

Its definitly snug fitting. A little ease is included at a few spots to allow breathing room.

Kaaren

HI Paamelab,
Im curious did you take your own measurments? Because I can make a perfect pattern for others but when it comes to meas. my self its nearly impossible. I do have a tip for meas. ones self, I tear duck tape in 1/4 width and the length needed.I place the tape along the side seam. The duck tape stayes in place long enough to meas. MPD /DS laurra

It's for my daughter. She had gained a lot of weight from chemo and the baby, but is working hard to lose it. Doesn't want to spend a lot of money on her "in between size".

I can't get my email off our small business server at the moment. Can you go ahead and send it to me though and hopefully, hubby will be able to either fix the email or get it off the server for me. email addy is: pamela@pbdesigns.biz

THANK YOU! For your patience and all your support. I was getting very frustrating, especially as Sarah has such limited time available for measuring.

GOt it! THank you! NOw to get a mock up done and find my errors!