Hi, just curious to know why I have only an elastic waist (foldover or attached elastic waistband) for all gored skirts.

I played with my dart options to shape a waist on which to add a waistband (did not get the actual darts on the pattern though- doesn't matter) and then added a waistband.

I'd like to know why we don't have zipper, button & waistband options.
I am sure we used to have those options or was I dreaming?
Is it possible to have those options if I was dreaming?
I don't like fullness at my waist.
Thanks,
Tris
All latest patches etc

quote:

Hi, just curious to know why I have only an elastic waist (foldover or attached elastic waistband) for all gored skirts.

I played with my dart options to shape a waist on which to add a waistband (did not get the actual darts on the pattern though- doesn't matter) and then added a waistband.

I'd like to know why we don't have zipper, button & waistband options.
I am sure we used to have those options or was I dreaming?
Is it possible to have those options if I was dreaming?
I don't like fullness at my waist.

Darts? NO. The gore skirt is fitted to the waist without darts. The dart effect should be handled by the shaping of the gore line between hip and waist.

Zipper? You can put a zipper into any seam allowance. When you request a zipper in any other Dress Shop menu, it just gives you an ordinanary seam allowance. Stick one in.

Waistband? Use the Extras Tool / dialog and select one.

Just an addition to the Gored skirt closure & waist option above,
I have restarted DS 3 times & now I have a zipper option for the hanky hem gored skirt options only- (not the standard 6 or 8 gore skirts). No other waistband changes & no button option for closure.

Thanks
Tris

Bob,
I did use the waistband option to get my waistband. We don't have to do it this way for other skirts. Shaping was minimal at the waist too. I wouldn't call it fitted. I ended up using the shaping from the fitted skirt- with the option of fitted, no darts.

I would like a button overlap closure option at least down the front that I don't have to start getting out the pencil again!
Thanks,
Tris

Bob replied:
Zipper? You can put a zipper into any seam allowance. When you request a zipper in any other Dress Shop menu, it just gives you an ordinanary seam allowance. Stick one in.

Waistband? Use the Extras Tool / dialog and select one.[/QUOTE]

quote:

I did use the waistband option to get my waistband. We don't have to do it this way for other skirts. Shaping was minimal at the waist too. I wouldn't call it fitted. I ended up using the shaping from the fitted skirt- with the option of fitted, no darts.

I would like a button overlap closure option at least down the front that I don't have to start getting out the pencil again!

Other skirts have an extensive closure menu. Since most of those options do not work for the gored skirt, we do not enable that menu. The waistband does work, but it is available elsewhere, so it did not seem worthwhile having a waist option menu for the gored skirt that only had that one item in it.

The button placket options do not work well with a curved seam line. Maybe some day...

Hi

The only options I get for gored skirt (6 or 8 gore) are "foldon elastic" or "waistband elastic". Check the "waistband elastic". Both 6 and 8 gore draft with a waist that fits the hip measurement. There is NO option offered under Gore Skirt to get a skirt that actually fits the waist with an inserted zipper. Only options are for very full elastic waist(foldover or waistband) that can be pulled on over the hips.

If you want a fitted Gore skirt that actually fits your waist - you need to start with a basic fitted skirt. Then refer to Armstrong or some other textbook and manually redraft a new pattern to create a gore skirt into which you can insert a zipper.

quote:

Originally posted by DressShopBob:
Darts? NO. The gore skirt is fitted to the waist without darts. The dart effect should be handled by the shaping of the gore line between hip and waist.

Zipper? You can put a zipper into any seam allowance. When you request a zipper in any other Dress Shop menu, it just gives you an ordinanary seam allowance. Stick one in.

Waistband? Use the Extras Tool / dialog and select one.

Please take another look at this, Bob. Some questions/observations --

1. How can a skirt be both fitted & w/elastic waist at the same time?

2. The gored skirts are drafting for an elastic waist. In a RTW12 with measurements of
29.5, 37, and 40 for waist, abs, and hips the skirt is drafting at about 40", 42", 48" for waist abs and hips (this is a quick estimate by counting the grid). That is correct -- the elastic waist has to be able to get over the hips. This will be a tight squeeze but doable. Maybe there's a little more room there if I would print & measure.

3. From what I can see, the gored skirts are currently a casual fit with no other menu options. A fitted version can be achieved but not as easily as just inserting a zipper and putting a waistband on the drafted pattern.

4. What is the best way to achieve fit? Using the fit tool for negative ease? Can this be done if you don't own the fit tool?

quote:

Please take another look at this, Bob. Some questions/observations --

1. How can a skirt be both fitted & w/elastic waist at the same time?

My apologies. We did a fitted gored skirt, but one or more of the testers involved found the curved seamline and zippers to be painful to get to work, so we pulled it and only released the elastic waist version.

The gored skirts as they curently present can have a waist band applied ONLY if you wish to ease all that waist ( from the hip wide draft) to the waist band.

We worked on this extensively a while back and found we had to do multiple pattern pieces including a right front side, center front and left side if we were to accommodate both a tilted waist and a fitted waist. It got even more complicated with the 8 gores than the 6 gores.

At the time we managed a very decent elastic waist gored skirt with some shaping and either an elastic fold over or applied elastic waistband. Zipper closures may be applied between any 2 seams as the seams are NOT shaped so much as to preclude adding a zipper.

At this time thats what is offered.

The shaped side to center panrels put a curve in any pair of seams you might wish to install a zipper in ..we have that pattern hanging around somewhere.it got hissed into oblivian as the zipper position was curved.

So what works in DS and works well for the elements it contains are the 6 and 8 gore skirts with, fit ease options , flare options,flare pivot options length options, godets and or hanky hems that have an elastic waist.

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by DressShopBob:

quote:

Please take another look at this, Bob. Some questions/observations --

1. How can a skirt be both fitted & w/elastic waist at the same time?

My apologies. We did a fitted gored skirt, but one or more of the testers involved found the curved seamline and zippers to be painful to get to work, so we pulled it and only released the elastic waist version.

We can create a "fitted" waist with elastic and zipper, with a waistband. I would select gores to have a center back seam for zipper, pin fit excess out of seams I want fitted (assuming the front), and use elastic sectioned waistband to take up excess in the back, OR split the excess evenly with elastic sectioned band on sides. Whether excess is taken up in back or on sides will depend on your figure and design plan. Actually, this could be done with foldover instead of separate waistband, too.