I'm working with a Fitted Shirt, Straight No Dart sleeve.

Can anyone tell me what the difference is supposed to be between the Square Cuff and the Gathered Cuff?

I would think it would be in the width of the bottom of the sleeve. My guess would be that the sleeve would be wider and gathered into a gathered cuff but narrower and stitched smoothly into the Square cuff.

What I'm seeing is that the bottom width of the sleeves are the same but the sleeve is LONGER in the one that has the Gathered Cuff (by the same amount as the height of the cuff).

I looked for cuff/sleeve descriptions in the help files and in the manual but didn't find anything to explain the differences in these two cuffs and why they would change the sleeves the way they do.

Or is this something that is broken and should I file a problem report?

Click on Sleeve in the blue tower to make adjustments to length/width of sleeve and select cuff options.

quote:

Originally posted by Diane Day:
Click on Sleeve in the blue tower to make adjustments to length/width of sleeve and select cuff options.

Thanks, Diane.

I know that I can make changes that way. However -- do I need to make changes? I don't know if the differences I'm seeing between the two sleeves are what I'm supposed to be seeing.

Is it correct that a Straight No Dart sleeve at Full Length with a Gathered Cuff is shorter than one with a Straight Cuff? And are the cuffs supposed to be the same size?

If I don't know what the default is supposed to be, I don't know what changes to make to get there.

I looked a littler further and in the list of update changes found these two items:

quote:

Build 6.07 was released on March 10, 2005 with the following changes:
5. A Gathered Square sleeve cuff was added as an alternative to the Standard Square cuff. Standard Square drafts to current sleeve bottom width (decorative, no gather). The gathered cuff drafts to the nearest arm measurement, plus 10%. This is smaller than the sleeve bottom and allows the sleeve to be gathered into this closer cuff.

Build 5.16.92, released on June 28, 2004 included the following changes:
10. Sleeve lengths were not being reduced by cuff width when sleeve cuffs were added to sleeves.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Gayle,

If you have time, try drafting a shirt (I was using Fitted Shirt) with a Straight No Dart Sleeve.

Do you see this difference in the sleeve when comparing a Square Cuff and a Gathered Cuff?

the sleeve itself gets longer with the gathered cuff, yet the sleeve widths are the same and the cuffs are identical.

Is this right?

TIA

when you gather in the sleeve to cuff it will "blouse" over the cuff...which is what its trying to do.

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:
when you gather in the sleeve to cuff it will "blouse" over the cuff...which is what its trying to do.

Kaaren

ok, that makes sense

but wouldn't the sleeve need to be wider or the cuff need to be narrower than the corresponding sleeve/cuff designated as Square?

Gayle,
I hope this helps. I did what you asked.

I don't dare mention about Mia, because I know that we are directed not to go by the art but the pattern. But if you select a gathered cuff over the standard square, the cuff is not there only a gather at the end of the sleeve.

There are lots of options for design here, starting with the length. Do you want the sleeve to hang over the cuff? If not, then personally I would make the standard square cuff and widen my bottom sleeve width. I just tried this and changing the bottom width of the sleeve does not effect the width of the cuff.

But what I am seeing with my measurements is that the gathered cuff is giving me a sleeve that is the total length for my arm measurement, the standard cuff takes away the 2" from the total length so that the sleeve will end at the wrist.

Should it be that if you select gathered cuff it should take off the same 2" as the standard cuff. If it designed to hang over the cuff, which is something we would not know without a description, having a hangover that is the same length as your sleeve does not intuitively sound like the right amount. when I picture this in my mind, I am seeing a sleeve that will hang over and hide the cuff totally.

And to ask another question here - on my screen the standard square cuff is the same width as the bottom of the sleeve if I count from dotted line to dotted line. If I count from dotted line on the left to solid blue line on the right, it is shorter. I am assuming the solid blue line is the overlap? And where do you sew the opening for a vent? Or do you not need a vent for this sleeve? I would want a sleeve vent, but that is personal preference. And if you wanted the sleeve to be gathered and hang over the cuff, would it need to be a bit wider to do that?

Okay, more than one question. And I hope that these questions do not lead to more confusion. Think of it as another "coffee discussion".
Linda

Posted 02 October 2005 08:33 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:
when you gather in the sleeve to cuff it will "blouse" over the cuff...which is what its trying to do.

Kaaren


ok, that makes sense

but wouldn't the sleeve need to be wider or the cuff need to be narrower than the corresponding sleeve/cuff designated as Square?


I dont mean to make this sound snippy so please.Im smiling not frowning.

thats one of the reasons you have all those glorius tools!

You want minimal blousing.leave it be.you want a pirate look.add bunches to bottom hem cirumfernece in sleeve tool... or maybe just a little bit more for an elegant little flouncy blousing.

It is up to you!!!
one of those gazillion decisions you CAN make as the apparel designer.

Kaaren

quote:

I dont mean to make this sound snippy so please.Im smiling not frowning.

thats one of the reasons you have all those glorius tools!

I guess I'm being quite dense on this matter -- and the differences aren't getting through to me

Since I can't compare patterns on the screen any longer, I printed out the sleeve at 25% when I initially chose a Square Cuff.

Then I selected a Gathered Cuff and hit Redraft and printed the new sleeve again at 25%.

I don't understand why it's called a Gathered Cuff if the same size cuff in each instance is being attached to the same width of sleeve.

I thought that choosing a different cuff would affect the look of where the sleeve is attached to the cuff, say with more gathers needed.

Instead it is affecting the overall look of the sleeve.

Wanting a 100-watt light bulb to go on and all I can find is a night light ....

And to ask another question here - on my screen the standard square cuff is the same width as the bottom of the sleeve if I count from dotted line to dotted line. If I count from dotted line on the left to solid blue line on the right, it is shorter. I am assuming the solid blue line is the overlap? And where do you sew the opening for a vent? Or do you not need a vent for this sleeve? I would want a sleeve vent, but that is personal preference. And if you wanted the sleeve to be gathered and hang over the cuff, would it need to be a bit wider to do that

-----
ask for the vent in the draft!
The shirtmaker sleeve and cuff always has one.

When you select cuff you also have an opporutbity to select cuff width/if tis to be stitched in a circle OR is atatched to a vented sleeve with a button overlap.

Set width/length and overlap in thhe tool.
first on Mia select sleeve type and then cuff type.
Now open sleeve toolset vent height.redraft bingo its on the shirt. at the length you requested!

now under the vent bit is the button overlap.

Planning on using a tiny cuff button.it'll work at default.want something big and shiny thats decorative Increase overlap to support the longer button hole required.

briefly button diameter plus 1/8th inch = button hole length.

If making a vertical cuff button hole make sure cuff is wide enough.

How t6o finish the vent you can make a simple rectangular placket OR use the "tower" sleeve placket in the program ( need to own Mens for that one- the placket is found under facings)

default is a starting point....to the design floating around in your head.

YOU supply the details and the definitions to your design.

How do you KNOW what to select...map a favorite blouse.

march into a decent shop and take a quick measure.

when I dont feel I can whip out my mini wind up tape measure I use the tip of finger to knuckle system..or measure from notepad edge inwards..and when i get outside I write myself notes.fast fore I forget!

Kaaren