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posted
I have been having problems with the back of Raglan tops not drafting properly.
Bob says that my BACK armhole measurement is too long. My back armhole is longer than the front. I don't know which measurements that I should recheck to possibly adjust this.
My question is... What measurements control the armhole length?
Thanks
Tris


DS9, plus extras
 
Posts: 28 | Location: Australia | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The frotn arm hole depth is set byt eh arm hole depth number on yoru chart plus ease
your back arm hole depth is controled by the side seam as it draws up from waist.where it stops is the bottom of the arm hole.

The back arm hole depth should be 1 inch longer than front when you look at the sleeve report of the fitted blouse or sloper.

More than 1 " means you should increase the side seam by the amoutn fo sdifference between 1Inch longer than front and whatever it is showing

ie front ahd at 6.5 back ahd reads 9
you want 6.5+1 or 7.5 back arm hole depth which will control the back arm hole length!

9-7.5 = 1.5 add 1.5 to side seam length

Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Karen, thanks for that info.
I work in cm so my front ahd=18
Back ahd=21
difference too much by .5 cm
I have increased my side length by 0.5 cm

I have re checked the raglan patterns that I was having problems with & the problem is still there. back is deformed.
The problem patterns are:
slim peasant blouse
Cap sleeve Raglan blouse
Form fit Raglan blouse

The only raglan blouses that has the back drafting properly (with old side length & new)is the Stretch Raglan Surplice, & loose Jersey Peasant blouse.
I don't have any raglan dress patterns to check

Bob's suggestion that my back armhole was the problem is not correct. Any other suggestions?

I don't think this is a new problem I think it was happening in 6.09 when I was fiddling with it too. It didn't matter then,

Now I want to make the cap sleeve Raglan top.
I have also noticed that if I change the front neck to a scoop, the already deformed back goes really wierd as does the sleeve.


Any help will be appreciated,
thanks, Tris

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ttc,


DS9, plus extras
 
Posts: 28 | Location: Australia | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Kaaren,

I have a very rounded back and see that my back armhole is longer than 1" than the front, however the fitted blouse seems to fit me quite well. Can the larger rounded back account for having greater than 1" between front & back armhole lengths?
 
Posts: 39 | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Diane in WA:
Kaaren,

I have a very rounded back and see that my back armhole is longer than 1" than the front, however the fitted blouse seems to fit me quite well. Can the larger rounded back account for having greater than 1" between front & back armhole lengths?
 
Posts: 237 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I too have a rounded back and have more than the 1 inch back armhole depth. My fitted blouse also fits me
Marge UK
quote:
Originally posted by Diane in WA:
Kaaren,

I have a very rounded back and see that my back armhole is longer than 1" than the front, however the fitted blouse seems to fit me quite well. Can the larger rounded back account for having greater than 1" between front & back armhole lengths?
[/QUOTE]
 
Posts: 237 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes, hang on.The raglan pattern in the show all is correct, for some reason its redrafting when the sleeve tool is displayed and or when you go to print.

Its reported and we worked on it yesterday. It will go to test before any update is posted.

It was clean all thru the test cycle so "something happened" during the final build.

Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I should have read all the posts in this thread before my last answer. Which applied to the very first post in this topic.
as to the additional posts to date:

Every one has a longer deeper back arm hole than front by approx 1". Fist we ask you to set it that way, second if you look in a mirror with your arm extended you will see the shape of the arm pit "cave" is longer in back than front. the back muscles at arm hole level expand when the arm is in motion and the front contracts into a more deeply curved "backwards" C.

Only on an extended arm hole ( dropped shoulder) with a much deeper arm hole can that "difference be "ignored". The high true arm hole must represent this difference.

Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have a very rounded back and see that my back armhole is longer than 1" than the front, however the fitted blouse seems to fit me quite well. Can the larger rounded back account for having greater than 1" between front & back armhole lengths?

---
Yes but not too likely. Increase the side length slightly if you see a wonky arm hole.

By lifting your arm you can measure the difference in height between front and back arm hole depth. extend the arm just shy fo level with the shoulder out to the side to then get a good visual of the front versus back depths.


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by ttcreations:
I work in cm so my front ahd=18
Back ahd=21
difference too much by .5 cm
I have increased my side length by 0.5 cm


Tris, bear in mind that on the sleeve screen where we see these armhole depths, the cm are rounded up and don't show decimals. What appears as a 3cm difference may in fact be 2.5cm.

As a die-hard metric user, I will go to Settings and change to "inches with decimals" to check this difference and then change back to centimeters.


Tessa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DS Deluxe
v6.13 on desktop
v6.09 on laptop

 
Posts: 141 | Location: Edmonton, Canada | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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