I sent a problem report several days ago but have not received a response - hopefully it is not my e-mail address but I will leave both at the end here just in case.

The question is: Should a shoulder dart increase the horizontal measurements for the full length of the blouse?

I am using DS Pro 6.13. The pattern is the fitted blouse - standard fit.

These measurements are from the actual printed patterns measured at 100%.

Without a shoulder dart the across back measures 8.5 X 2 = 17. With a shoulder dart it is 9 X 2 = 18. This increase in the width of the pattern continues to the hem of the garment.

I know nothing about pattern drafting but it doesn't seem correct to me.

Thanks for your time.

Marie in Colorado
DSPro6.13
Fit Tool
Fashion Designer 1 & 2
Spring and Summer
Illusions
some patterns
marieannsnyder@hotmail.com
marie80503@msn.com

The question is: Should a shoulder dart increase the horizontal measurements for the full length of the blouse?

I have narrow shoulders, broad back. Without a shoulder dart, the armscye would have a excessive convex curve, or my measurement line across back extends into the armhole. With the shoulder dart, it allows me to have narrow shoulder and wider across back (difference in width is taken up in the dart). So, yes, the across back can be wider when you add a shoulder dart.

But that is only in the upper back. I expect the lower back, underarm, waist, ab, hip would draft to measurements plus ease (depending on pattern) and should not be affected by a shoulder dart.

I see the increase in width across shoulder and down to across back as expected in decreasing amounts down to back bust but not all the way to hem.
The amount is 3/8th an inch at across shoulder
at default.about 1/16th at back bust level.

Trial run on fitted shirt, my chart.

Kaaren

quote:

I see the increase in width across shoulder and down to across back as expected in decreasing amounts down to back bust but not all the way to hem.
The amount is 3/8th an inch at across shoulder
at default.about 1/16th at back bust level.

My fitted shirt pattern has the increase the full length of the shirt.

Across back 8 1/2 to 9
At double notch in armscye 8 7/8 to 9 5/16
At underarm 11 13/16 to 12 3/8
At back bust 11 7/8 to 12 3/8
8.5" down from underarm 12 to 12 5/16

Apparently my version isn't working like yours? What should I do?
Thanks,
Marie

Hi read this again and you are using 6.09 I believe and we are up to 6.13 so I cant possibly check yours against mine.

Suggest
1 you update
2 what size dart are you usign at shoulder.it should be approcx 3/8th of an inch.

Back around 6.09 I would have to look we removed the "flag" that would not allow the across back to create a "convex curve to the arm hole.

This flag stopped the across back no matter how incorrect the number form makign a bulge.

Do check your across back measurement.
Kaaren


3

Hi Kaaren, thanks for your response.

1) First thing to clear up is that I am using 6.13 - apparently my "signature" option still shows 6.09 and as you see in my original post I did say I was using 6.13. I will figure out how to fix my signature.
2) I am using the shoulder dart at default which measures 3/8" at the seam line.
3) I remember the "flag" issue in 6.09 (or so) I know there were instructions posted on how to deal with it - but I cannot find them again on the LivingsoftNW website. Can you repost them?

4) I don't know what you mean by "check my across back measurement". I have the two patterns in hand at 100% and have measured the difference. My across back body measurement is 16". Without a dart the fitted shirt at standard fit is drafting at 17" with a dart it is drafting at 18. This continues down the full length of the pattern.

I still don't know what to do.

Thanks,
Marie
DS PRO 6.13
fit tool, fashion designer 1 & 2, + other good stuff.

Hi Marie, I think I finally see what your question is.

and Im doing some research.

This has been this was a very long time. We use a default ease of 1 inch at "back ease" .

Im going to make a dangerous presumption that since the shoulder dart nominally increases the across back thats why the back bust downward has the increase.

Why dangerous? I cant find one good reason to increase from back bust downwards , nor can I find one good reason NOT to.

So was this evolution or deliberate?

I will find out for you though to the best of my ability.

Now.here's a work around if you want that bit of extra out of there.

Select your fitted garment that comes without a shoulder dart. print a quick 1/4 scale

use the dart tool add the shoulder dart.print a quick 1/4 scale. Overlay to see the differnces.

Determine if the dart increase continues downwards the length to WAIST level ( I could find no evidence it went below waist beyond the abd depth but I obviously have NOT tried every possible silhouette or variable that would take years .)

Now determine how important it is to you to remove it. Many will find it MOOT or of little consequence. Some may feel it is of some importance.

If the reason you want the dart is due to a rounded back I would NOT remove it.

If the answer is yes go to FIT, look at the number in the back bust dialog.
Subtract 0.25 from that number and enter it as back bust ease. ( NOte thats 1/4 not the 3/8th of the dart take up)

1 alternate route for you rather than back ease of 1 change that to back ease of 0.75

I don't NEED 1 full inch of back ease is I almost always reduce it to .75 or even less depending on fabric and style.

When my research is complete I will report.

Kaaren

Good Morning Marie and anyone following this thread.

Thank you very much for your well done report. Sufficient information was given that we did track it down!

It's been one of those obscure things that has been in there for a long long time but never previously reported.

Bob found,and corrected it and the fix will appear whenever v6.14 comes out. Not in the next few days so please use the work around.

which would involve either changing the back ease from 1 to 0.75 or reducing the back bust ease by about a 1/4 inch from the numbers in the Fit tool when you add a shoulder dart.

Regards,
Kaaren

thanks Kaaren - I appreciate your attention to this.