I have just measured my friend and she has made the first pair of pants using the new MPD Pants Designer. If I use the actual measurements, the crotch curve is extremely hooked, both front and especially the back. I re-checked all the measurements and adusted them very little. In order to get a normal crotch curve, I had to shorten the extensions an inch in front and two in back. Now the pants fit well except the back waist is now 3.5 inches too low. what do you suggest? Please help.
Pamela in Texas

I almost missed this as it is an MPD topic posted in a DS forum...and frankly I dotn check the one forum as often as I check the other.

Also what version of which program are you using and what pattern are you building.


There is not enough info here to give you anything precise- how do the pants fit at the waist, at hip level, at the inseam.

If the floor to waist is on target but the inseam is running low or high that could be the issue.

The crotch fit/curves is a very delicate balancing act between crotch depth at centers and side ( floor to waist minus inseam) the hip placement, the inseam placement, and the crotch lengths. Adding an inch or more to the extensions indicates something is just way off balance sommwhere.

Allow the program to compute the extensions which are percents of hip front and a different percent of hip back- make sure the hip front and back are ideal.(make the ext and cbwd all 0)

Also allow the program to formulate the cbwd which is a percent of the total dart suppression.

Make sure the chart is loaded, send a problem report in MPD and Ill take a look this comign week..Im on break right now. ggg
Kaaren

I think Kaaren misread your post. She thought you added to the extensions instead of reducing them.

If your floor to waist levels are correct, your friend may need the length of the extensions.
You might try reducing the crotch lengths a little bit to reduce the J.

If this brings the back waist up to the correct level that is good. If there is now a wedgie you can scoop the back crotch.

OR, as Kaaren said, you may need to reduce the inseam length. This would reduce the J and allow the pants to come up higher.

Good luck!
Nan

quote:

I think Kaaren misread your post. She thought you added to the extensions instead of reducing them.

Mis-read, mis-reported, or mis-interpreted.....

The J-shaped crotch curve is a familiar problem in computer generated patterns and Kaaren has seen it a thousand times. The fixes are generally the same and shortening the crotch extensions is NOT one of htem.

The J-Shaped crotch curve occurs when the specified length of the curve (Crotch Length measurement) is greater than the space it must sit within. That space has two parameters - width and height. The height is set by inseam length and the width is set by crotch extension.

If you shorten the crotch extension, the space gets smaller, the curve is the same length, so the curve bends more, becoming more J-Shaped than it was with the longer crotch extension measurement. Anyone can do this with their chart to see the effects of these measurements. Just make a copy that you can toss when you are done experimenting. Do any of these and you should see the curve changed as described:

1. Increase crotch length => more J-shaped curve. Decrease crotch length => less J-shaped curve. Decrease it a lot and you get a straight line, not a curve.

2. Decrease extensions => more J-shape. Increase extensions - less J-shape.

3. Increase inseam -=> more J-shape. Decrease inseam - less j-shape.

The change that was done at the start of this thread was to reduce crotch extensions by 3 inches. The effect was that the back waist was lowered by about 3 inches. I know of no reason that particular adjustment, by itself, would make the crotch curve less J-shaped, but it does appear to drag down the back waist, so it sounds undesirable.

Reducing the crotch length measurement is the most likely culprit. That one is very often measured looser than Dress Shop is expecting. People want that area to be comfortable, not tight, so they measure it loose, not realizing that Dress Shop will add ease when needed but needs to know the true measurement, not the comfortable measure with user ease added in.

None of us can give definitive advice about a chart without seeing the chart. Even then, without seeing the body itself or photos at least, there is a lot of guesswork involved. But, with neither the body, nor photos, nor even the chart, then any advice may be off the mark. So, I hope you take these comments as generalities that can identify the 5 numbers to work with (2 extensions, 2 crotch lengths, and the inseam) without any assurance that the rest of the advice is applicable in this case.

But, I hope it may be...