Having got my sloper measurements sorted I have been sewing together my first "real" garment and have got into a muddle.

I'm having a problem with it that is down to my sewing inexperience, nothing to do with the DS programme. Have sewn my front panels to the fronts and they look ok. Have sewn the panels onto the back, which apart from an alarmingly deep scooped neck (did I REALLY mean to draft it so deep looks) looks ok too.

So, I then went to sew fronts to back - but the back shoulder seam is about twice the width of the front one, mainly because the panel goes all the way to the top on the back but not on the front . All the lengths match at the bottom so that is not what I have done.

Please has anyone made this recently and please can you make a guess at eaxctly what silly mistake I have made? Or is there a reason why the shoulder seams would be different on this pattern? I'm sure it's something silly in my assembly of the pieces and will be so embarrassed as well as grateful to sort it out

Anne,
Exactly what kind of neckline did you choose front and back?
Which version did you use? You are new to the program right?

Tell us exactly how you drafted it and then with more information it may look clearer (in my head at least )
Linda Flint

Hi Linda Yes I am new to the programme . I have version 6.09.

I drafted a shoulder line princess top with short sleeves. The back and front neckline are both scoop necks (the back was not intended to be, but, umm, it just happened that way!).

Linda As an add-on to my previous post, I think I have made the fronts into the facings. They look like they would fit onto the front princess panels.

But then I still have the two bits that I thought were princess panels which must then be facings - and they don't look like the shape of the facings shown on DS when I draft the pattern. They are wider than the panels, straight on 3 sides with a gentle curve up from centre front. Sorry, that's about as clear as mud to read back

If these are facings why don't they print off as shown on the pattern? If they are not, how did I ever get a shape which does not relate to what is on screen? Oh dear, this is a real muddle, thank goodness I didn't sew it together on the overlocker, all is not lost...

Anne,
Okay, I put it on my program. You need to send in a problem report, there is a definite bug here and I hope Kaaren sees it.

First off, scoop neck front and back where it blends into the shoulder line is soooo cute, I can't wait to make one. Oh and where you said that it was too low, that is the default of the program. I hope you have the neck shaper tool so that you can adjust that to your liking. That is one of the beauties of that tool.

Secondly, on the first screen where it shows all the patterns pieces, it shows as the scoop ending at the shoulder seam for front and back, but when you go to showing just the back, the pattern definitely changes so that the back is scoop is now not stopping at the shoulder line but extends up and thus causing your problem with the back being larger than the front.

Anybody else who wants to check this out chose a princess shoulder blouse, then change front and back neck to scoop. It looks real good and cute on that page. But then go to print screen and look at back pattern. Ooops, it changes.

Anne, I hope you know how to send in a problem report. If not, and Kaaren sees this then maybe she can send it in.

Hope this gets fixed, I would really like to make one now.

So Anne, it was not you after all, you just inadvertently found a program error. No biggy, I bet you Bob can fix it. It probably will not get into the release that is due today, that would be too short of a notice for that.
Linda Flint

Oh yuck! This looks like a DS drafting problem to me. Haven't looked at princess styles with different necks for a long time.

I recall someone asked for the square neck to disappear into the shoulder princess line and it appears the scoop neck has gone this way as well. Not good IMHO. It used to be that the shoulder princess seam would draft halfway along the remaining shoulder portion after the neck width was established.

I can simulate the old way with a RTW 12 Shoulder princess blouse at default with jewel neck. Go to Neck on toolbar, set Front Neck Depth to Scoop (6.46"), at Neck Opening width type in 7.5". Redraft. However if you type in 7.6" for the neck width (obviously a critical width) the back neck drafts to a single point on the back center panel and the back side panel gets a fierce angel wing nub where the shoulder dart was.

Sorry, I think you are going to need some creative sewing to rescue this.
File a problem report about it. (oops I don't think problem reports are working yet - maybe an email direct to Bob)

Addendum:
I just flicked through the actual pattern pieces and really see what you mean. This is another case where the design pattern preview pices display differently to the actual print pieces.

In the print pieces you are getting a default jewel neck width with the princess line in the center of the shoulder seam. On the front you only have the outer portion of the shoulder seam because the neckline has 'disappeared' into the princess line.

That front facing piece is also wrong - far too narrow on the neck width. Compare the facing from the Armhole princess blouse.

If you have enough fabric try recutting the front center panel drafted to a jewel neck then manually cut the neckline down. You may be able to salvage the garment.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: InspiredSewing,

aack.reported i have some doubts it will make tonights update.but will sure try!
Kaaren

Oh bother ! (OK bother was not the word I first used). I've not submitted a problem report before, please could someone kindly give me an idea where to look? I expect Bob and Kaaren must be pretty busy with getting the new update and collection ready for today...

Creative sewing it will have to be - yikes - I struggle enough to do everyday sewing. Don't have enough fabric to cut fronts out again. The back looks fairly normal so I just have to come up with an idea for the front - well apart from the "how not to" example that is.

I bought some nice white linen on Sat as the weather has at last turned warm here and I suppose I was trying to run before I could walk - don't know enough to have realised the problem when I previewed the print.

Does this happen much in DS or have I just been unlucky? I went to Gabrielle, an experienced DS user for help with my measurements on Fiday and she emailed Bob about a similar problem on my bodice sloper. The sleeve looked as you would epect on the page but printed out in a most odd shape. This did not happen when a fitted shirt was selected in my measurements so we decided it was not too much of a problem. But that's two bugs...

Please does anyone have any bright ideas about how to rescue this without any more of the same fabric for the front or do I need to scrap it? If I had a cat, I'd be off to kick it now

Porblem report sent.will do all possible to get fixed in tiem for this update coming out today/tonight US time.

Kaaren

Lucky for the cat, RSPCA and you that you don't have a cat!

In Dress Shop, call up the offending pattern with your measurements. Set the options as you had them. Go to Help / Submit a Problem report. Type in your email , anme and description of the issues. It will send it off to Bob with a copy of your measurement chart.

I do believe reports may not be working so send Bob an email directly as well.

To rescue it, I can only suggest a contrast center front panel. I know that usually screams 'rescue attempt' but that's a; I can suggest. So sorry.

quote:

Originally posted by InspiredSewing:
I recall someone asked for the square neck to disappear into the shoulder princess line and it appears the scoop neck has gone this way as well. Not good IMHO.
.

Sorry Tessa, that was me and it can look good, I think.

here:

http://www.territoryahead.com/shopItemDetail.asp?SID=&t...9MC1T4DWUNFR0PFD6B4C

This is where I got the original inspiration.
Linda Flint

IF the neck requested is wide enough to reach the shoulder princess line there was a choice to either limit neck width or give user what she wanted and let it disappear into the seam line.

Thats what happened...if there is a significant problem ( besides the back soop which has been reported) please advise. we can go back to limiting neck width so ti doesnt come too close to princess seam line so it becomes unstitchable.

Could you make a sort of big Mandarin collar (lying flat) to fill in that front neckline? Maybe put a notch in the front of the collar/insert and pretend it's a design feature? I'm not sure where the princess line ends, though, so it might be all-in wrestling, mandarin vs princess.

Kathy Warner

quote:

Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:
IF the neck requested is wide enough to reach the shoulder princess line there was a choice to either limit neck width or give user what she wanted and let it disappear into the seam line.

Thats what happened...if there is a significant problem ( besides the back soop which has been reported) please advise. we can go back to limiting neck width so ti doesnt come too close to princess seam line so it becomes unstitchable.

Kaaren, I don't see any "choice" for the user to have a regular looking scoop neck or to disappear into the neckline. (I may be mis-interpreting your words here). I know what you mean about the neck and panel line getting too close though.

My opinion is that the default should draft nicely for new users. I consider myself an advanced user so I can fiddle with the tools to get back to the 'old' neck line and I can recognise a ill-drafted pattern instantly. New users line AnneR need nicely drafted pre-selected options like we have with the neck and sleeve choices. What we get now is not really a scoop neck.

I would like the scoop neck to go back to what it was (not disappearing into the princess seam).
In fact I would also like the square neck back to what it was (but smaller so it doesn't conflict with the princess line - AND which can be adjusted with neck tool) IN ADDITION keep the current square neck disappearing into the princess line as a second neckline choice. I do find the square neck disappearing into the princess line is quite wide and low and could easily conflict with bra straps. The neck tool doesn't adjust it well.

quote:

Originally posted by Kathy Warner:
Could you make a sort of big Mandarin collar (lying flat) to fill in that front neckline?

Good idea Kathy. I'm interpreting your suggestion as more like an upper 'yoke' perhaps in lace.