the board is pacific us time

quote:

Originally posted by Vicki:
[T]he time stamps on the postings are confusing me. Are they the time zones that we each individually choose on our profiles or are they converted on the list to some magical standard time zone?

Click on Go, My Space, Preferences. Forum will be highlighted on the left, and on the right you’ll see “My Time Display.” You can select to show your times in your own time zone or the Community time zone (Pacific Time). If you select your time zone, the PST will be converted to your time zone; posts originating in other time zones should also be converted to your time zone. If you leave it at Community time, knowing all the board administrators are in that time zone, it might be helpful as well--you'll just have to remember it's 2 hours different from where you are.

Hi Vicki,

Sorry to be so late in replying again. I was away from the forum most of the weekend.

I did see the picture you uploaded and can see what you are describing.

I am going to send you a private post. I will be leaving for work shortly, so I won't be able to get back to you again until tonight.

quote:

Originally posted by Diane Day:
You can select to show your times in your own time zone or the Community time zone (Pacific Time).

Thanks Diane. Now I get it. I kept thinking that if everybody picked their own time zones, that the messages were being timed stamped with all different time zones. No wonder I was confused!

I've thought about your earlier post. It might be that I could add just a little to my High Bust without adding too much fullness under the arms. It wouldn't straighten the sideseam but the angle would be less severe. The angle is also less severe when using the Elegant Dart like Kaaren suggested. I've used that before. I just don't always want such a long dart leg.

I just finished a sloper testing a new measurement chart after a 30 lbs weight loss from a medication change. I'll play around with the sideseam issue as I'm making my test garments. The good news is that I must finally be getting a glimmer about fitting the bodice. After ages of off and on struggles and needing help with the first sloper for my original measurements, I pretty much nailed this second one on the first try. I may just raise the waist 1/4 inch at most. The sleeves look wonderful. I'm really pumped!

I wonder if Lavonne realized she was going to set off this kind of discussion. Hopefully, there has been something in here that helps her!

Vicki

I have read all of the replys dealing with the fitted shirt side seam. Thanks a lot to all who posted. I have also gone to Club form to view the pictures that were placed there by Vicki. I just want to add that my side seam angle is much greater that hers. I have tried trueing the side seam as well as changing the angle to 20 degrees. After trueing the dart as Kaaren suggested, I not longer get a W. However, I do not get the normal V shaped cap that I am used to seeing. I just get a straight area at the end of the dart. In addition the side seam still has an angle that cannot be sewn to the back.

Could someone tell me how I would go about putting a screenshot of my fitted shirt pattern onto the Club at Quiltropolis? If you could see the pattern you might have a better idea of the problem that I am having. Again, thanks so much. Lavonne

What you might be used to in a commercial pattern is not necessarily what you will find in a custom pattern.

If you fold the dart as it will be finished, the bottom dart leg is folded up over top the top dart leg, the mid line is folded down underneath, and you then cut away excess paperstarting at the underarm and proceeding towards hem while the dart is folded out you will get a triangular dart cap that is exactly right for the dart width.

Before reaching the hem ( or do it first.)fold under the hem at the fold line and starting from the bottom cut upwards to just beyond the stitch line of the hem you will get the triangular "pokey" or inverted triangle cut away to match the hem width to the finished garment width.

to get a screen capture on most win systems its alt+prntscreen ,(you dotn see anythign happen) take it into a paint type program and right click paste or ctrl+v to paste, convert to gif or jpeg and save the picture with at least your initials in the name.

To get to club go to quiltropolis.com click on clubs, obain a password and click sewing, My Patterns, apply for membership on the left hand side. (The application will be approved as soon as I see it. I do eat sleep and play sometimes)

After approval ( which is one time only and based solely on the fact you own a DS product) enter the "club" area , albums and load your gif with a short comment. additional comments may be posted on the forum page.

You can also send me your MyDSMeasurements.txt file and Ill load in your pattern, take a look at the chart and review your fitted shirt.

send the email to patrns4u@aol.com click attached file, find the file in c programs livingsoft then scroll down to MyDSMeasurements.txt and attach it.

OR
send in a problem report,using the help feature and in the comments box ask the report be forwarded to Kaaren.

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by sewgood:
I have also gone to Club form to view the pictures that were placed there by Vicki. I just want to add that my side seam angle is much greater that hers.

Lavonne,

I'm learning little bits all the time. Carolyn took my measurements and played with them and then sent me a few comments. She trigger a little bit of illumination on much broader issues.

DS generates custom patterns. We have eached lived with our bodies our whole lives and assumed they are fairly "normal" no matter what the size. I read on the list how someone else copes with a fitting challenge and assume that it will work for me also.

Carolyn made the comment that she couldn't straighten out my lower sideseam without adding 6" of ab ease (of course the waist darts increase in size). She noticed that my front bust was larger than either my abs or my hips.

My first reaction was ... well, isn't everybody's. I had these proportions even when I was a 118lb B-cup many years ago. But then I realized that everyone doesn't. These are custom patterns which is why they do a pretty good job of fitting me when I have the measurements right.

That explains why I was just sure there was something wrong with my program 6 months ago when there was a discussion on list about making T-Shirts out of the Fitted Shirt pattern. (It had to be the program, not that my body was shaped differently. ) They were placing the ruler like you did to trim the bust dart and ending up with a straight sideseam. There was no way that worked on my sideseam. Now I realize that they probably had a front abs/hips that were the same size or larger than the front bust even though they had a cup size similar to mine.

This is one of the challenges of custom patterns ... the solutions are also custom. The list can give us ideas but not guarantee a solution for our custom requirements or challenges. That's why it's always a good idea to take advantage of Kaaren's or another educators offer to look at your measurement chart.

If you're saying that your sideseam angle is greater below the bust dart than the screen shot I posted, I wonder if it isn't because the difference between your front bust and front abs/hips is greater than mine. If so, what happens if you add Ab Ease in the Fit Menu to straigthen the lower sideseam some and have the waist shaping moved to the larger front waist darts generated?

Just another thought of something to try courtesy of Carolyn. No guarantees!

Vicki

Hi

I found that the angle from bust dart to underarm varied with changes in my High Bust measurement. Have you tried increasing your High Bust measurement slightly to see if that helps?

A big increase can straighten the side seam completely, but end up with too much fabric under the arm. But a small increase should help straighten the seam without adding too much extra fabric.

Or you could try shifting the entire side seam forward by increasing back measurement and decreasing corresponding front measurements by the same amount, ie 1/4" or 1/2" and see if that helps.