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Dress Waist Offset and Panel styles
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posted
Breakout of Problem Reports topic
quote:
Originally posted by Gayle:
quote:
Originally posted by Kaaren: The Lisa jst drafted for me in a variety of charts and Im not 100% sure which pattern you are refering to as the "panel coat" panel which is fitted , casual or comfort under the princess line.


ALL of these:
Outerwear-Jackets-Lisa
Outerwear-Princess Coats-Panel Coat
Outerwear-Princess Coats-Casual Panel Coat
Outerwear-Princess Coats-Comfort Panel Coat

ALL above will NOT draft with my new measurement set. They will draft with the SAME measurement set IF the Dress Waist Offset and Dart Center Offset are at the 0 default. (as reported above)

Same before and after shutting and reopening the program.

So I guess the measurement I need to fix the sheath breaks the panel jackets/coats. Or maybe it was the dart center offset. But the panel dresses (any jumper or dress that I own at any fit level with the word "panel" as part of its name) seem to be working fine.

Workaround will be to have two charts -- one for dresses w/offset measurement and the other for everything else.

BTW I just tried to submit another problem report and this one behaved and went through. So Bob now has the offending measurement set.

So for me, I've identified a problem, figured out what I did to cause it, and figured out what I can do to avoid it in the future. My dress waist offset may be "outside" the allowed parameters (but it coincidently is the same as my high waist offset amount).

I've sent in a problem report and reported here as a heads up in case someone else is experiencing the same thing.


Looking to see if I could replicate Gayle's problem I tested on my chart and Misses RTW 12 which everyone has.

On my chart (with my needed 2" Dress Waist Offset) I found similar results to Gayle.
With/without Dress Waist Offset - All Panel Blouses and dresses are okay.
With 2" Dress Waist Offset - Lisa, Panel Jacket, Panel Coat, Casual Panel Coat, Comfort Panel Coat all draft in extreme miniature. Pieces display about 1 cm - 1.5 cm high on pattern screen. Nothing is viewable in the Print screen.
Without Dress Waist Offset (zero) - above jackets and coats are okay.

Tested with Misses RTW 12 with a 1.75" Dress Waist Offset which is needed for the sheath.
This time on panel styles I found a different set of results.
Okay - Panel Sheath, Panel Blouse, Lisa, Panel Coat, Casual/Comfort Panel Coat,
Broken - Casual/Comfort Panel Blouse, Casual/Comfort Panel Dress, Panel Jacket


Tessa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DS Deluxe
v6.13 on desktop
v6.09 on laptop

 
Posts: 141 | Location: Edmonton, Canada | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Princess styles (armhole/shoulder ; blouse/dress/jacket/coat)
Waist notch on center panel is being affected by Dress Waist Offset causing a mismatch with the corresponding waist notch on side panel.
This was not happening on the second testers patch (I checked my screen shots)


Tessa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DS Deluxe
v6.13 on desktop
v6.09 on laptop

 
Posts: 141 | Location: Edmonton, Canada | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
On my chart (with my needed 2" Dress Waist Offset) I found similar results to Gayle.
With/without Dress Waist Offset - All Panel Blouses and dresses are okay.
With 2" Dress Waist Offset - Lisa, Panel Jacket, Panel Coat, Casual Panel Coat, Comfort Panel Coat all draft in extreme miniature. Pieces display about 1 cm - 1.5 cm high on pattern screen. Nothing is viewable in the Print screen.
Without Dress Waist Offset (zero) - above jackets and coats are okay.

Tested with Misses RTW 12 with a 1.75" Dress Waist Offset which is needed for the sheath.
This time on panel styles I found a different set of results.
Okay - Panel Sheath, Panel Blouse, Lisa, Panel Coat, Casual/Comfort Panel Coat,
Broken - Casual/Comfort Panel Blouse, Casual/Comfort Panel Dress, Panel Jacket


Excellent detail. Thanks, Tessa.


DressShopBob
(Bob Clardy)
 
Posts: 718 | Registered: 18 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
Princess styles (armhole/shoulder ; blouse/dress/jacket/coat)
Waist notch on center panel is being affected by Dress Waist Offset causing a mismatch with the corresponding waist notch on side panel.
This was not happening on the second testers patch (I checked my screen shots)


I'm afraid this is another side effect of the side panel modification to work with Dress Waist Offset. At the time, it appeared to be similar enough to the princess pattern change that is would work the same way. But, it did not.

This one is serious enough that we will probably do a patch or revised update.


DressShopBob
(Bob Clardy)
 
Posts: 718 | Registered: 18 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Just wondering if it's been decided to do a patch/update to allow the panel jacket to draft in 25% and 100% instead of only in extreme miniature.

Thanks!

Darlene / Orlando, FL


Darlene Blount / Orlando, FL
MPD Pro
 
Posts: 60 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: 25 September 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
This one is serious enough that we will probably do a patch or revised update.


My first time quoting -- Hope I did it right!

Just wondering if it's been decided to do a patch/update to allow the panel jacket to draft in 25% and 100% instead of only in extreme miniature (when using waist offset).

Thanks!

Darlene / Orlando


Darlene Blount / Orlando, FL
MPD Pro
 
Posts: 60 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: 25 September 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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gO TO pRINT ENTER 25% FOR EACH PEICE IF for soem rreason tis not showing at 25% automaticaly.mine are
K


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
gO TO pRINT ENTER 25% FOR EACH PEICE IF for soem rreason tis not showing at 25% automaticaly.mine are
K

Tried that already -- didn't help. What did help is to decrease the amount of waist offset. I decreased by .25" and everything is fine. Maybe I tried to raise it to the breaking point!

Thanks!


Darlene Blount / Orlando, FL
MPD Pro
 
Posts: 60 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: 25 September 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
Just wondering if it's been decided to do a patch/update to allow the panel jacket to draft in 25% and 100% instead of only in extreme miniature.



It's in test. I did a patch on Friday and one tester has tried it with success. A rather small sample to know that we are done with this one. The test group just came off a rather intense work effort and most of them need a break from this stuff for a bit. Once others have time to look and respond, we will either release it or try again.

There is some minor debate about just how the side panel patterns should work with the Dress Waist Offset setting. That setting was to adjust the side seam shaping and was specically setup to not effect waist dart shaping. But, side panel patterns do not have a side seam. Their waist and side shaping is combined in a single seam. So, should that seam be adjusted using the side seam adjustment or the separate waist dart adjustment?

Because of the structural elements those patterns share with princess line patterns, I rather arbitrarily chose to make them work as the princess patterns do, with the shaping adjustment in the panel seam controlled by Dress Waist Offset. That may or may not be correct, though.

Our one test report was enthusiastic. The patch worked and adjusting fit this way produced a better result for this user than without the Dress Waist Offset. Kaaren was mostly convinced this was the way to go.

But, just one trial. Hard to be sure....

If you want the patch with such minimal testing, it can be found at:

http://www.LivingsoftNW.com/builds/DS6_13_patch2.exe


DressShopBob
(Bob Clardy)
 
Posts: 718 | Registered: 18 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
But, just one trial. Hard to be sure....

If you want the patch with such minimal testing, it can be found at:

http://www.LivingsoftNW.com/builds/DS6_13_patch2.exe

Thanks, Bob. Sounds promising.


Darlene Blount / Orlando, FL
MPD Pro
 
Posts: 60 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: 25 September 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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