14 April 2013, 05:04 PM
SandiQUESTION REGARDING ARM DEPTH
Greetings everyoe.
I have been working on creating my sloper.
Measuring my bicep it is 15 1/2 in. So according to the formula in the DS litterature, the front armhole depth should be 6 in and the back 7 in.
After lots of trial and error with the front high bust, and armhole depths, I found out that I get a fair fit when the front armhole depth is 5 and the back 9.
My question to all of DS users is whether such a big difference is possible. I would appreciate your responses on this issue.
With warm regards to all,
Sandi A.
14 April 2013, 10:13 PM
Dress ShopIt is NOT usual, but then whatever works.
the front and back armhole difference is moist likely to be between 1 and 2 inches. UNLESS the shoulder is quite severly tipped forward.
The shoulder seam line should run down the middle of the shoulder ridge. This sounds like it is quite far forward.
Kaaren
15 April 2013, 06:13 AM
SandiHi Kaaren,
You are right. I had to use the 4 inch difference to be able to adjust my back neckline so that the back neckline covers my neck bump. Moreover, I have sloping shoulders. I added the sleeves to the bodice of the sloper, and they were perfect, after adding 3/4 of an inch to the sleeves' cap height, and a 3/4 shoulder dart. Today I am making a simple fitted blouse with a convertible collar with all these changes. I will let you know the results. Thank you for your kind response.
Sandi A.
15 April 2013, 02:16 PM
Dress ShopAnother method or means to this is to lower the back slope and full, raise the front full and slope and simply cut the back neck deeper by lowering the center back line exposing part of the back neck "raised area". Increase neck width a little bit.
It also helps to run a slight scoop neck in back based on "true" measurements.
Kaaren
15 April 2013, 09:48 PM
SandiSorry Kaaren, but I don't seem to understand what "lower back slope full" means. Can you explain this?
Thanks,
Sandi A.
15 April 2013, 10:13 PM
Dress ShopSure the front full is between neck/shoulder and waist and sets length to waist
the slope is between shoulder point and waist on the diagonal and sets the angle of the shoulder drop from neck to shoulder point.
Set the shoulder ridge line by balancing the front and back lengths of both full and slopes.
You now have very long back measures and short fronts which pulls the shoulder ridge line towards front. Put it back to mid shoulder by reducing the lengths on the back and increasing the lengths on the front.
16 April 2013, 06:22 AM
SandiI tried this. However, what this does is not allowing the back neckline to be in the right place unless the back neck line is a straight line with the shoulder. To have a small curve on the back neckline, I had to shorten the front and increase the back armhole which raised the back and brought it forward. The shoulder ridge seem to be at the right place, ending at the shoulder point ok.