Hi there. I sent in two problem reports regarding the Mandarin Jacket. I take it that there is no auto responder to let you know they were received but still have heard nothing from the either one especially the last one.
It involved the front actually meeting properly at the side seam but the hem on the front is two inches longer than the back. First thought it was too short in the back and then figured out that it was too long in the front. Pinning it up fixed it. Also the whole pattern was too big. Too big in the bust; the waist; the ab; the hip. Was worse in the back. The arm was okay but there was only one mark on the two piece sleeve at the shoulder seam and no others. Got the sleeve in but could tell that it was hanging wrong and swinging the sleeve forward by 1/2" will fix that. That would mean the only mark provided is not in the right spot or maybe if I switch the grainline....
Been reading the post regarding reference lines with interest because I always have them turned on and wonder if some of that ease got stuck [using standard fit]. I did go back after I made the pattern and loaded 6.13 and using only defaults check the pattern again against the one I had sewn. There was no change [except the one piece sleeve has construction marks.
For me, the best fix I can figure is to use the jacket with no ease selected and then add what I think would be best but just wanted someone to know I was having issues since I had no response to my problem report.
Thanks
Duckie

quote:

Hi there. I sent in two problem reports regarding the Mandarin Jacket. I take it that there is no auto responder to let you know they were received but still have heard nothing from the either one especially the last one.
It involved the front actually meeting properly at the side seam but the hem on the front is two inches longer than the back. First thought it was too short in the back and then figured out that it was too long in the front. Pinning it up fixed it. Also the whole pattern was too big. Too big in the bust; the waist; the ab; the hip. Was worse in the back. The arm was okay but there was only one mark on the two piece sleeve at the shoulder seam and no others. Got the sleeve in but could tell that it was hanging wrong and swinging the sleeve forward by 1/2" will fix that.

Hello Duckie,

I'm sorry that you did not get a reply to your problem report. But, your report was passed on to support for follow up there as it required explanation and measurement analysis, rather than programming. Not sure what its status is at this point.

But, I can tell you briefly why nothing can be done in the programming or design of that pattern. The length of a pattern at center front versus center back is totally controlled by your measurements. The program makes no effort at all to make those lengths the same. They often are not the same. Depending on the shape of your front or back, more fabric may be required to cover the curves in one than in the other. That is normal. Your measurements should indicate how much fabric is required. In any case, the program does not, should not, must not try to make them equal.

It does make the side seams equal. Those have to sew together. Regardless of your measurements, those seams must be the same length.

The mandarin jacket has a lot of ease built into it, both because of its style and because it is a jacket and because "wear-over" ease is added on top of that. Addtional ease is added if you elect casual or comfort fit. You can adjust ease if the fit is not to your liking, but that is a subjective preference issue and not a programming or design issue. If you want a closer fit, then you need to adjust the ease yourself. Others have different preferences.

quote:

Been reading the post regarding reference lines with interest because I always have them turned on and wonder if some of that ease got stuck [using standard fit]. I did go back after I made the pattern and loaded 6.13 and using only defaults check the pattern again against the one I had sewn. There was no change [except the one piece sleeve has construction marks.

The issue with the Fit Tool displaying more ease when reference lines were displayed was a informational or presentation error, not a drafting error. The numbers in the tool were wrong, not the pattern draft.

Thanks for that information Bob. I appreciate the extra knowledge. I still think I will try many copies of 25% with different fit options trying to pull the whole garment in to actually skim my body rather than look like I am wearing my big sister's clothes.
lol
On another note. My straight skirt and my cap sleeve shell are nearly done and they look fabulous.
Duckie