I am constructing a man's formal suit coat with a shawl collar.

I've looked at 2 different pattens (DS and another sw) which both show the roll line on the lapel ending at the inside end of the shoulder seam. (goes from breakpoint at CF to end of shldr seam)

The muslin I made rolled at about 1/2" into the lapel at the shoulder seam. Seems like the collar stand portion of the shawl collar should start lower than what is indicated.)

Since this will be tailored (taped roll line, pad stitched etc), how should I adjust the roll line before marking?

The shawl collar in both DS and MPD on jackets has an orange roll line coming from the neck shoulder point to the break point in orange- but the roll dart that gives a little assist to the roll is shorter. If you wish to lengthen it you may- make the wide part of the dart at the midway mark between shoulder and break point at 1/8th inch either side of center.

Kaaren

hmmm... I'm not exactly sure what you mean by lengthen (widen?) the dart...

where does ds expect the lapel to roll? along the outside of this dart or along the center line of it?

Jean

The shawl neck rolls along the roll line from shoulder to break- the dart itself is shorter than the roll line.but its a roll not a hard fold.

When I look at one of the DS jackets the roll line is in the proper place and proper length. You can adjust the neck depth if desired as well as the collar width.

Since I am uncertain exactly which pattern you are looking at, nor do I have the chart up- it is difficult to tell exactly what you are seeing or having an issue with.

Our jacket patterns are NOT formal, tailored jackets- they are more casual in both fit and construction and lack the pattern pieces for weft interface, chest shields and shoulder pads, etc.

Preparing the pattern is immensly important-hand drafting those additional pieces to convert any of the DS patterns to a full tailored formal jacket will be necessary. IN this case the casual fitted blazer or whatever you are looking it will be a base block you grow to your design.

Kaaren

The shawl neck rolls along the roll line from shoulder to break- the dart itself is shorter than the roll line.but its a roll not a hard fold.

When I look at one of the DS jackets the roll line is in the proper place and proper length. You can adjust the neck depth if desired as well as the collar width.

Since I am uncertain exactly which pattern you are looking at, nor do I have the chart up- it is difficult to tell exactly what you are seeing or having an issue with.

Our jacket patterns are NOT formal, tailored jackets- they are more casual in both fit and construction and lack the pattern pieces for weft interface, chest shields and shoulder pads, etc.

Preparing the pattern is immensly important-hand drafting those additional pieces to convert any of the DS patterns to a full tailored formal jacket will be necessary. IN this case the casual fitted blazer or whatever you are looking it will be a base block you grow to your design.