29 October 2005, 04:31 PM
Dress ShopLengthen inseam
Pant length is determined by floor to waist. NOT by inseam.
The inseam determines how much of the floor to waist is leg and how much is crotch depth.
To increase total length increase floor to waist.
Kaaren
29 October 2005, 04:39 PM
Diane DayGayle, DS determines the pants inseam length by the number you put in your measurement chart for the inseam. You take that measurement from crotch to floor (and assuming you were barefooted when measuring). That measurement alone is not what determines the overall length of your pants.
If your pants fit well and you want to change length to accommodate different shoe heel heights, that is what the tool is for. If your pants are drafting too short, you may need to revisit your measurements.
For a general description of how DS drafts pants patterns, please see the Pattern Drafting 101 article under Help in the DS program. If I recall correctly, the pant sloper should draft one inch from the floor (assuming measurements taken barefooted).
29 October 2005, 05:20 PM
DressShopBobquote:
Gayle, DS determines the pants inseam length by the number you put in your measurement chart for the inseam. You take that measurement from crotch to floor (and assuming you were barefooted when measuring). That measurement alone is not what determines the overall length of your pants.
If your pants fit well and you want to change length to accommodate different shoe heel heights, that is what the tool is for. If your pants are drafting too short, you may need to revisit your measurements.
For a general description of how DS drafts pants patterns, please see the Pattern Drafting 101 article under Help in the DS program. If I recall correctly, the pant sloper should draft one inch from the floor (assuming measurements taken barefooted).
Just an added note on this topic. I have received any number of problem reports over the years in which a user entered the inseam length of some favorite pair of pants for this measurement. That is NOT the number that Dress Shop needs or expects. Dress Shop needs floor to skin for this value. It then adds the ease that a pair of pants needs. That favorite pair of pants that you have in your closet has that ease included in its stated inseam length. You cannot use that inseam value as your body inseam measurement and expect to get the same pants.
29 October 2005, 05:58 PM
Gaylequote:
Originally posted by Diane Day:
If I recall correctly, the pant sloper should draft one inch from the floor (assuming measurements taken barefooted).
This was the info I was wanting ... and I had missed the Drafting 101 article when I was looking for it. Thanks for the reminder about it. I didn't know if the hem drafted to a below-ankle measurement or an above-floor measurement.
No surprise that pants worn with shoes are too short. Ok for pajama bottoms (if they're not so wide as to catch a foot in the hem going up stairs) but too short for anything except a very tapered pant--which is the default on pants but visually widens the hips). When adding width to the pant leg we have to remember to add adequate length ... or we'll have "flood" pants.
Another item on the checklist of drafting requirements before printing.