I am using MPD Basic. I made the shell pattern exported from DS and I have a problem but I don't know
which measurement to change. When I am standing it is fine but when I set down my shirt
rides up at the shoulders. Which measurement do I need to look at changing and will
it effect any other measurements?

I can think of many raesons this might happen and it is a little hard to diagnose with limited information. There are only 2 measurements that are used alone in the program - the center back and center front where changing them will have little effect beyond the neck depth. Almost all other measurements are used in multiple calculations and will affect some other spot. Clearly the shoulder point being the measurement that affects the most points on the body including slope, bust depth, arm hole depth, across shoulder and etc.

The first thought was fabric selection. A fabric with a firm hand would tend to ride up when seated and hang better when standing.

How did the shell fit you when you drafted it in DS? Had you already proofed your fitting sloper or torso sloper?

Kaaren

I am using muslin to check the style before I cut into good fabric. I didn't have any success with DS. So when MPD
Basic came along I decided to try again. I am getting a better arm hole with MPD basic. My sloper was not great but
close enough.

Now that we can bring our DS patterns in to MPD will we get the armhole draft used by the MPD program? Also, will we get the pants draft used by the MPD program when we bring a pant from DS into the MPD program?

Thanks,
Rena Evans
DS PRO and all the tools

quote:

Now that we can bring our DS patterns in to MPD will we get the armhole draft used by the MPD program? Also, will we get the pants draft used by the MPD program when we bring a pant from DS into the MPD program?

Yes and Yes- you may have to make adjustments to these numbers as they are measured differently.

There is a back arm hole depth - the start point is 1 inch longer than front and you may adjust by very small amounts as needed.

There is NO body depth. make sure the hip front and back measurements are correct and the crotch lengths are correct. Adjust the front and back crotch lengths so the extension is NOT longer than the ease line by more than 1/8th to 1/4 inch. The extension will be computed by a percent of your hip

Kaaren

Thanks Kaaren! I could hugs someones neck over this. I have had a pretty good fit already in DS. This will just be icing on the cake. Is there somewhere I can go to get more details on the small measurement changes I will need to make? I am just getting back into sewing after a lengthy illness. Therefore I haven't been able to attend any of the MPD classes.

Again, Thanks to everyone for this wonderful benefit to DS and MPD.

Rena Evans

I forgot to ask if I need to use the measurements in MPD? Or can I just transfer my measurement file from DS into MPD and then make the small adjustments necessary?

Rena

Yes you may import your DS measurements. In fact have your favorite chart UP in DS when you do the export.

First - the difference between DS and MPD "slopers" see attached in Pdf format and when I find the article I wrote when we first released MPD about adjustign charts I will post that as well.

Kaaren

The_difference_between_DS_and_MPD_bodice_slopers.pdf (12 Kb, 69 downloads) DS versus MPD slopers

Thanks Kaaren, I have a good sloper in DS. So hopefully if you are able to find your other article it won't take much to switch over.

Thanks Again,
Rena

For those interested I also found in the archives newsletters some articles about the difference between DS and MPD measurements. Here is the url. http://www.mypatterndesigner.com/newsletter/NewsArchive.htm

The only thing it doesn't cover is that I seem to remember that you were suppose to put zero values in some of the measurements that affected the pants fit. Can't remember if this was in the crotch breaks or what. Does this still hold true?

Gosh I've got to go to bed and quit playing with this. LOL!

Rena

quote:

For those interested I also found in the archives newsletters some articles about the difference between DS and MPD measurements. Here is the url. http://www.mypatterndesigner.com/newsletter/NewsArchive.htm

The only thing it doesn't cover is that I seem to remember that you were suppose to put zero values in some of the measurements that affected the pants fit. Can't remember if this was in the crotch breaks or what. Does this still hold true?

Yes it still does hold true. Enter 0 in the 4 boxes labeled front and back crotch extension and front and back curve break so the program can compute the number for you based on an enhanced formula. Do this any time you change floor to waist conformed, or crotch length of front or back hip measurements.

Kaaren